50 amp power cord grey plastic nut

Rgpracer

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2020
Posts
611
Location
ICT KS
Ok, head hung low, red faced and embarrassed and asking for help.....
I can build you a business jet, F4 Phantom, F16 Falcon, a UH1 Huey Helecopter and even a dirt Late Model stock car.....BUT I CAN'T PUT THIS FREAKING NUT ON THIS POWER CORD!!!!!!

Ok ok, woosaaaa, woosaaaa, I'm calm now, is there anything special to install this nut?? I tried Dawn, everything in my arsenal to put it on, no luck.....what trick am I missing........calling Gander RV??

Thanks
 
Lol! The locking nut is a PITA to get back on once off. Got a deep freeze? Put your cord in a bag and drop it in for an hour. Meanwhile, let the nut bake in the sun. Smear a little dielectric grease or petroleum jelly around the lip of the nut, pull cord out of freezer and quickly remarry the two.
 
Thanks Geo.....will give it a try


QUOTE=geotex1;365986]Lol! The locking nut is a PITA to get back on once off. Got a deep freeze? Put your cord in a bag and drop it in for an hour. Meanwhile, let the nut bake in the sun. Smear a little dielectric grease or petroleum jelly around the lip of the nut, pull cord out of freezer and quickly remarry the two.[/QUOTE]
 
Tx, mine is in the background. 138th_Fighter_Wing_-_2_F-16_Flight.jpg
 
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After getting the cord plugged in and turned to the lock position, push firmly and squarely on the cord. I rotate the lock ring backwards a 1/4 turn to seat the threads and then turn the lock ring to tighten it. The arch of the cord going to the ground can affect the angle of the plug.

Our Solitude kitchen slide is right next the where the cord arches to the ground. I use a piece of double sided Velcro strips to secure a nice arch of the cord to take some of the stress off the outlet. KEN
 
I use the jiggle method, plug in the cord, hold it level then jiggle the plug whilst turning the nut. Seems easy to get cross threaded.
 
M
After getting the cord plugged in and turned to the lock position, push firmly and squarely on the cord. I rotate the lock ring backwards a 1/4 turn to seat the threads and then turn the lock ring to tighten it. The arch of the cord going to the ground can affect the angle of the plug.

Our Solitude kitchen slide is right next the where the cord arches to the ground. I use a piece of double sided Velcro strips to secure a nice arch of the cord to take some of the stress off the outlet. KEN

I think you misread the post. He’s trying to reinstall the ring onto the cord, not connect it to the trailer.
 
Ok, head hung low, red faced and embarrassed and asking for help.....
I can build you a business jet, F4 Phantom, F16 Falcon, a UH1 Huey Helecopter and even a dirt Late Model stock car.....BUT I CAN'T PUT THIS FREAKING NUT ON THIS POWER CORD!!!!!!

Ok ok, woosaaaa, woosaaaa, I'm calm now, is there anything special to install this nut?? I tried Dawn, everything in my arsenal to put it on, no luck.....what trick am I missing........calling Gander RV??

Thanks

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Power-Inlets/SmartPlug/SM76FR.html

This will be my next RV upgrade once the power unit in my unit goes bad. My last RV the Furrion power light on the connector stopped working after about three years. I was just about to upgrade it when I traded in for my Reflection. The little blue light went out on it over the winter. I suspect this will be an upgrade very soon.
 
Thanks JK....

QUOTE=jkwilson;366071]M

I think you misread the post. He’s trying to reinstall the ring onto the cord, not connect it to the trailer.[/QUOTE]
 
After getting the cord plugged in and turned to the lock position, push firmly and squarely on the cord. I rotate the lock ring backwards a 1/4 turn to seat the threads and then turn the lock ring to tighten it. The arch of the cord going to the ground can affect the angle of the plug.

Our Solitude kitchen slide is right next the where the cord arches to the ground. I use a piece of double sided Velcro strips to secure a nice arch of the cord to take some of the stress off the outlet. KEN

Ok, head hung low, red faced and embarrassed and asking for help.....
I can build you a business jet, F4 Phantom, F16 Falcon, a UH1 Huey Helecopter and even a dirt Late Model stock car.....BUT I CAN'T PUT THIS FREAKING NUT ON THIS POWER CORD!!!!!!

Ok ok, woosaaaa, woosaaaa, I'm calm now, is there anything special to install this nut?? I tried Dawn, everything in my arsenal to put it on, no luck.....what trick am I missing........calling Gander RV??

Thanks

M

I think you misread the post. He’s trying to reinstall the ring onto the cord, not connect it to the trailer.

Opps

I've heard that can be fun putting a new ring nut on the end of the cord.

There was a thread about that a long time ago on this forum.

Good luck, KEN
 
I did replace my plastic ring when it split. I used the aluminum ring when I replaced it. I actually heated the cord head a little so it would be pliable and then a little grease allowed the ring to slip on at an angle. I also bought the Camco 90 degree adapter to take some of the strain off of the 50 amp receptacle.
 
...Our Solitude kitchen slide is right next the where the cord arches to the ground. I use a piece of double sided Velcro strips to secure a nice arch of the cord to take some of the stress off the outlet. KEN

Just a thought. I was also paranoid that the really heavy cord would pull the receptacle right out of the wall. We bought a 50 Amp dog-bone with a Trailer twist lock 90 degree connector on one end and a 50 amp female 90 degree on the other end. All of our 50 amp cords have male/female 90 degree connectors anyway for mixing and matching as necessary. Now the heavy cord hangs straight down with no support required.... https://www.etrailer.com/Marine-Power/Camco/CAM55562.html
 
Is it absolutely necessary to use the threaded ring? Since it is a twist-lock connection, wouldn't continuity be maintained without the ring?

I built a PVC stand to take all load off of the 50 amp power cable at the trailer connection, so at this point I am wondering about the benefit of using the ring.
 
Is it absolutely necessary to use the threaded ring? Since it is a twist-lock connection, wouldn't continuity be maintained without the ring?

I built a PVC stand to take all load off of the 50 amp power cable at the trailer connection, so at this point I am wondering about the benefit of using the ring.

I would say yes. The twist lock isn’t all that secure, and if the cord moves you could potentially lose your neutral. That could be an expensive loose connection.
 
Just a thought. I was also paranoid that the really heavy cord would pull the receptacle right out of the wall. We bought a 50 Amp dog-bone with a Trailer twist lock 90 degree connector on one end and a 50 amp female 90 degree on the other end. All of our 50 amp cords have male/female 90 degree connectors anyway for mixing and matching as necessary. Now the heavy cord hangs straight down with no support required.... https://www.etrailer.com/Marine-Power/Camco/CAM55562.html

I have been using one of these for 4 years and really like it; heavy cord hangs straight down. I will say, I think I read here that someone had one short on them, so be aware. That said, mine has been trouble free and I use it every trip. I can see the strain caused by the bend of the cord on rigs not using one.
 

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