We always run the furnace in low temps to reduce risk of freezing lines. It's been great into the low 20's, however, consistently frozen lines in the 17-21 degree range; we don't tend to camp in temps lower than that if we can help it. At those temps the lines do not take long to unthaw once the sun comes up and temps get back into the high 20's. I read on this forum that the likely culprit is the low point drains. Here there is water sitting in the exposed lines down to the valves. As that water freezes it can freeze up into the "T" connector inside the belly just enough to stop the flow of water, but then thaw relatively quickly as temps rise again.
In an effort to try to combat this I cut the drain lines shorter and placed the valves as close to the "T" valves as possible. As the valves still protrude from the Coraplast, I still needed a way to enclose them and provide a bit of insulation but still be able to access them for winterizing. To do this, I cut a "frame" using 2" rigid insulation. I also purchased a sheet of white Coraplast from Lowes. I cut a "frame" out of the Coraplast sheet to match the rigid foam frame, then a rectangular panel to enclose the foam frame.
1. Cut the Coraplast under the camper to widen the opening around the valves but so that it is no larger than the inside of the rigid foam frame.
2. Using marine adhesive caulking, butter one side of the corrugated frame and adhere it to the rigid foam frame. This piece is there to give screws for the cover something to bite into.
3. Using marine adhesive caulking, butter the opposite side of the rigid foam frame liberally with adhesive caulking.
4. Using a board about the size of the rigid foam frame, use a jack (bottle or floor jack) to hold the frame over the opening around the valves. Use just enough pressure so that the rigid foam frame and adhesive is contacting the camper's Coraplast completely. Let sit overnight.
5. Next day, remove the jack/board. The foam frame should be securely attached to the camper's Coraplast. Use preferred screws (I used #8 x 3/4 ss Phillips Head) to attach the remaining Corrugated panel to the foam frame to enclose the "box".
6. You can either paint this all with flat black as is (I prefer the newer spray paints that are primer/paint in one and compatible with wood, plastics, etc.) also found at Lowes. Or, you can adhere corrugated panels to the sides of the rigid foam enclosure for a more finished look; I did this just on the sides that are most visible. Also, I had extra Reflectix laying around so I cut two layers to fit inside the frame under the panel cover to provide a bit more insulation to the valves.
Now any heat that makes it to the corner where the water heater and drain valves are located will remain inside the space without the lines being exposed. It is un-seasonally warm here in MN so I am not sure if we'll get much of a test in our first outing next week. But perhaps as we head north to Alaska in May or back in October we'll get a test or two to see how well it works.
Wanted to share in case it is useful to anyone out there. Happy camping!
In an effort to try to combat this I cut the drain lines shorter and placed the valves as close to the "T" valves as possible. As the valves still protrude from the Coraplast, I still needed a way to enclose them and provide a bit of insulation but still be able to access them for winterizing. To do this, I cut a "frame" using 2" rigid insulation. I also purchased a sheet of white Coraplast from Lowes. I cut a "frame" out of the Coraplast sheet to match the rigid foam frame, then a rectangular panel to enclose the foam frame.
1. Cut the Coraplast under the camper to widen the opening around the valves but so that it is no larger than the inside of the rigid foam frame.
2. Using marine adhesive caulking, butter one side of the corrugated frame and adhere it to the rigid foam frame. This piece is there to give screws for the cover something to bite into.
3. Using marine adhesive caulking, butter the opposite side of the rigid foam frame liberally with adhesive caulking.
4. Using a board about the size of the rigid foam frame, use a jack (bottle or floor jack) to hold the frame over the opening around the valves. Use just enough pressure so that the rigid foam frame and adhesive is contacting the camper's Coraplast completely. Let sit overnight.
5. Next day, remove the jack/board. The foam frame should be securely attached to the camper's Coraplast. Use preferred screws (I used #8 x 3/4 ss Phillips Head) to attach the remaining Corrugated panel to the foam frame to enclose the "box".
6. You can either paint this all with flat black as is (I prefer the newer spray paints that are primer/paint in one and compatible with wood, plastics, etc.) also found at Lowes. Or, you can adhere corrugated panels to the sides of the rigid foam enclosure for a more finished look; I did this just on the sides that are most visible. Also, I had extra Reflectix laying around so I cut two layers to fit inside the frame under the panel cover to provide a bit more insulation to the valves.
Now any heat that makes it to the corner where the water heater and drain valves are located will remain inside the space without the lines being exposed. It is un-seasonally warm here in MN so I am not sure if we'll get much of a test in our first outing next week. But perhaps as we head north to Alaska in May or back in October we'll get a test or two to see how well it works.
Wanted to share in case it is useful to anyone out there. Happy camping!
