Adjusting tow height when hitch at minimum

StuffHappens

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NC
We picked up our first 5th wheel a GD Reflection 295RL. This is our 4th camper but first 5th wheel.

We have a Ram 3500 Dually with standard 17" wheels. It is not lifted and has the standard leaf springs in the rear.
We purchased a B&W Companion OEM, and the "A-frame" is set to the lowest position in the base.
I am measuring 7.5" above the bed rails at the rear corners (where it is lowest).

The camper is sitting nose high. Frame height front to ground measures 26.5" and at the rear 23"

This camper has the Curt Turning Point pinbox (which is locked out). Can it be replaced with a lower profile pin box? I asked the service manager at the store we purchased it from but he said I should get a "leveling kit" for the truck, which didn't make sense or answer the question.

Raising the camper at the axles seems sketchy. I'm not sure if changing out the 15" 225/75 wheels/tires to something taller would work in the wheel wells.

What do you 5th wheel folks do to level a trailer for towing? And yes, I know a 3500 dually is overkill for this camper, but we eventually plan to get a toy hauler after I retire, and I didn't want to trade trucks again.
 
You really don't have many options. The Turning Point hitch ahs an exclusive frame, so not many options to change it out. The only one I am aware of is the Gen Y gooseneck hitch.

The dealer was probably talking about a trailer lift kit, which is an option.
 
First off, congrats on the new coach, that's a great floor plan. I don't think you'll have much luck replacing the Turning Point pin box, I was interested in that also and didn't find any solutions that made sense. I don't have that hitch, I'm just wondering if there's any way to get it lower. I have the Andersen hitch, and I had to raise mine to ensure enough clearance over the truck sides. Mine's a bit nose high which tows fine for me.
 
~3" front to back over a 30' length isn't bad at all. I know some people spend tons of time and money to get spot on, but in reality you're fine. In the grand scheme of things you're probably only a few degrees nose high. I have a 240RL and am probably sitting about the same as you are and I'm shorter by a few feet. Go out and enjoy it.
 
~3" front to back over a 30' length isn't bad at all. I know some people spend tons of time and money to get spot on, but in reality you're fine. In the grand scheme of things you're probably only a few degrees nose high. I have a 240RL and am probably sitting about the same as you are and I'm shorter by a few feet. Go out and enjoy it.
You're probably right. I've always been very careful to properly level our Travel Trailers in the past because they tended to sway if they were not level. But in the limited towing I've done with this trailer it tracks quite well.

We camped at a local campground for 5 days after getting the camper to find anything missed in the PDI and I only had the opportunity to tow it at highway speeds for less than 20 miles.

The dealer originally failed to order the correct hitch and we towed with a Blue Ox temporarily. It was significantly nose high and chucked between 40-50mph. Not sure if it was due to being not level or just the nature of that hitch.

The B&W Companion has not chucked at any speeds yet.

I was concerned that being a few degrees high would unload the already light pin weight.

It also feels weird to hitch without safety chains.
 
Yeah the B&W is an amazing hitch. I went from a Reese (that chucked a ton) to the B&W and it was a night and day difference. Oh and don't worry, once you get all moved in and all the storage compartments ahead of the front wheels are loaded up that pin weight is going to go up astronomically :D
 
Gen-Y makes a box to replace the turning point... I don't know about the height adjustability of it - and it's pretty pricey. Also, you don't want to adjust for anything less than 6" clearance over the truck bed.

Gen-Y
 
We picked up our first 5th wheel a GD Reflection 295RL. This is our 4th camper but first 5th wheel.

We have a Ram 3500 Dually with standard 17" wheels. It is not lifted and has the standard leaf springs in the rear.
We purchased a B&W Companion OEM, and the "A-frame" is set to the lowest position in the base.
I am measuring 7.5" above the bed rails at the rear corners (where it is lowest).

The camper is sitting nose high. Frame height front to ground measures 26.5" and at the rear 23"

This camper has the Curt Turning Point pinbox (which is locked out). Can it be replaced with a lower profile pin box? I asked the service manager at the store we purchased it from but he said I should get a "leveling kit" for the truck, which didn't make sense or answer the question.

Raising the camper at the axles seems sketchy. I'm not sure if changing out the 15" 225/75 wheels/tires to something taller would work in the wheel wells.

What do you 5th wheel folks do to level a trailer for towing? And yes, I know a 3500 dually is overkill for this camper, but we eventually plan to get a toy hauler after I retire, and I didn't want to trade trucks again.
With that 3500 “3 1/2 is not bad just do your best to keep the heavy stuff over and forward of the axles as to minimize the tail wagging the dog effect on uneven surfaces.
In the future, should you wind up keeping the 295RL look into replacing those leaf springs that have additional leaves not necessarily going up in weight rating. Depending on your type of usage, you’ll most likely need to replace them soon anyway.
I’d run what you got for awhile before changing anything no point in fixing something that isn’t broke.
 
With that 3500 “3 1/2 is not bad just do your best to keep the heavy stuff over and forward of the axles as to minimize the tail wagging the dog effect on uneven surfaces.
In the future, should you wind up keeping the 295RL look into replacing those leaf springs that have additional leaves not necessarily going up in weight rating. Depending on your type of usage, you’ll most likely need to replace them soon anyway.
I’d run what you got for awhile before changing anything no point in fixing something that isn’t broke.
Have the 295's had early spring failures?
If we keep it past 5 years I'd probably replace it with an independent suspension.
 
Have the 295's had early spring failures?
If we keep it past 5 years I'd probably replace it with an independent suspension.
I think if you plan to keep it 5 years then the time for an IS is now - not in 5 years when it is more likely you won't keep it for another 5 years to get the value out of the upgrade. I get that you think you might upgrade to bigger RV eventually, but.... just sayin'... what if you don't?

fwiw - I did an SRE4000 upgrade immediately on my rig when I got it in 2018; I still had frame issues 4 years later so I put on an IS. I wish I had done it immediately instead of the SRE4000.
 
Have the 295's had early spring failures?
If we keep it past 5 years I'd probably replace it with an independent suspension.
You might want to have a talk with MORryde about that. At 10,995 GVWR, the 295RL may be too light for their suspension systems. The lightest system they have is 7K (x2), but they may have rubber shear springs to accommodate something as light as the 295.

Rob
 
Have the 295's had early spring failures?
If we keep it past 5 years I'd probably replace it with an independent suspension.
here's a novel approach.... go out and enjoy it and if something breaks, determine how to fix it. Can't start worrying about stuff breaking already, you just got it. 3rd full year with mine haven't had to fix a single thing.

-Jorge
 
You might want to have a talk with MORryde about that. At 10,995 GVWR, the 295RL may be too light for their suspension systems. The lightest system they have is 7K (x2), but they may have rubber shear springs to accommodate something as light as the 295.

Rob
MoRyde installed an independent suspension to our 270BN which has a GVWR of 10K (and a ridiculously light pin weight) so they most likely wouldn’t have a problem with a 295RL. My trailer was grossly out of level so the MORyde IS (along with disc brakes while we were that far along) was the best alternative rather than spacer blocks.
 
Other than bed rail clearance, your next major consideration is weight distribution. With a 5'er you want about 20% of your total trailer weight on the king pin. You should also find our how much weight each wheel is carrying. Assuming you are fairly even side to side, check how much each axle is carrying. As long as they are close, you are probably OK. What you don't want is the rear carrying significantly more weight than the front. I frequently see 5'ers going down the highway with the front end so high that 75% or more of the axle weight is all on the rear axle.
 
I don't fault GD. I can't fathom why the truck manufacturers continue to increase the height of their trucks for no obvious benefit to the consumer.

In the 90's I could reach over the side of my Ford F150 into the bed and get something out. Now I can barely see over the side of the bed. I can't even sit on the tailgate without taking a couple steps to "hop" my butt onto the tailgate.
 
I’ve towed different makes of FW’s with a 2016, 2019, 2022, and now a ‘24 HD. I’ve yet to tow a FW perfectly level. 10’s of thousand of miles and no known issues.

I tow nose high currently with a 3500DRW and Solitude. I measured from the front and rear jacks and there’s about 3.5” differential. This only gives me 6” of bed rail clearance.
 
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I lifted the 5th wheel and replaced the tires with taller ones to get near level. Depending on the fridge you have and how long you tow daily, being nose high could be bad for it. Also, if you extend the slides while hitched up, that could be bad also. YMMV and good luck!
 
We picked up our first 5th wheel a GD Reflection 295RL. This is our 4th camper but first 5th wheel.

We have a Ram 3500 Dually with standard 17" wheels. It is not lifted and has the standard leaf springs in the rear.
We purchased a B&W Companion OEM, and the "A-frame" is set to the lowest position in the base.
I am measuring 7.5" above the bed rails at the rear corners (where it is lowest).

The camper is sitting nose high. Frame height front to ground measures 26.5" and at the rear 23"

This camper has the Curt Turning Point pinbox (which is locked out). Can it be replaced with a lower profile pin box? I asked the service manager at the store we purchased it from but he said I should get a "leveling kit" for the truck, which didn't make sense or answer the question.

Raising the camper at the axles seems sketchy. I'm not sure if changing out the 15" 225/75 wheels/tires to something taller would work in the wheel wells.

What do you 5th wheel folks do to level a trailer for towing? And yes, I know a 3500 dually is overkill for this camper, but we eventually plan to get a toy hauler after I retire, and I didn't want to trade trucks again.
I am finalizing the deal on this same floorplan (2024 295RL) and was wondering what the distance is from the level ground to the bottom of the plate of the turning point pinbox. I am looking at my best option for 5th Wheel hitch and this measurement would be beneficial to me. Thank you. I emailed Grand Design requesting this measurement and haven't heard back just yet. Probably any measurement from something from the 150 series would work.
 
First off, congrats on the new coach, that's a great floor plan. I don't think you'll have much luck replacing the Turning Point pin box, I was interested in that also and didn't find any solutions that made sense. I don't have that hitch, I'm just wondering if there's any way to get it lower. I have the Andersen hitch, and I had to raise mine to ensure enough clearance over the truck sides. Mine's a bit nose high which tows fine for me.
how do you like the Anderson with your 260RD? I use a B&W Patriot now and it tows fine with no 'cluncking' but i do feel some fwd/back surge on rough roads. New truck coming next week, looking at Anderson or GenY for the 2025 2500HD TV. Just wondering about 'clunking' with Anderson. How did you raise the Anderson to clear the bedrails?
 
how do you like the Anderson with your 260RD? I use a B&W Patriot now and it tows fine with no 'cluncking' but i do feel some fwd/back surge on rough roads. New truck coming next week, looking at Anderson or GenY for the 2025 2500HD TV. Just wondering about 'clunking' with Anderson. How did you raise the Anderson to clear the bedrails?
I really like the Andersen hitch. It is so easy to hitch up, just center the cup over the ball of the hitch, and lower the trailer. One can hitch at any angle, uneven ground no problem. The ride is mostly good, I added Timbrens to the rear of my 2500HD as well as replacing the shocks to Blisteins from the stock Ranchos (big improvement on the shock change). I also added Sumo Springs to the coach, that was a real game-changer. There's still an occasional bumpy stretch, but most of the time even my wife is happy.

Raising the hitch was as easy as pulling the pin from one level and setting it an inch higher. No clearance issues any longer.
 

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