Alot of movement

[jhuband]

New to rv life... end of month 2. Sooo many questions- but I'll start here.

2023 imagine... The trailer feels like it's moving Alot when I walk around. I am aware they move, but I don't feel like it was this significant or intense before. It is level.

What are some things can I do to decrease movement? Also, why do ppl put plastic blocks or pads under the metal stabilizer things?

 

[ajg617]

New to rv life... end of month 2. Sooo many questions- but I'll start here.

2023 imagine... The trailer feels like it's moving Alot when I walk around. I am aware they move, but I don't feel like it was this significant or intense before. It is level.

What are some things can I do to decrease movement? Also, why do ppl put plastic blocks or pads under the metal stabilizer things?

I'll take a guess from personal experience with jacks in my old SOB TT and legs in the newer 5th wheel. The shorter the length of either, the more stable and less bouncy it will feel. If you are on gravel or ground, that will give more than concrete slab pads. I bought the cheap orange 10 pack blocks (have two sets) and try to keep the legs as short as possible. Carried wood 2x10 pieces for the old TT.

 

[jhuband]

I'll take a guess from personal experience with jacks in my old SOB TT and legs in the newer 5th wheel. The shorter the length of either, the more stable and less bouncy it will feel. If you are on gravel or ground, that will give more than concrete slab pads. I bought the cheap orange 10 pack blocks (have two sets) and try to keep the legs as short as possible. Carried wood 2x10 pieces for the old TT.

I'm on concrete. It's like a driveway. Brand new RV park. The TT has to be high enough for the stairs though right? But if I'm putting the orange blocks under the 4 leg things, doesn't that just make it taller? I'm confused

 

[NB Canada]

I'm on concrete. It's like a driveway. Brand new RV park. The TT has to be high enough for the stairs though right? But if I'm putting the orange blocks under the 4 leg things, doesn't that just make it taller? I'm confused

They screw down to the ground
If you have blocks under them they will require less screwing down

They are in no way designed to lift the trailer

 

[ajg617]

I'm on concrete. It's like a driveway. Brand new RV park. The TT has to be high enough for the stairs though right? But if I'm putting the orange blocks under the 4 leg things, doesn't that just make it taller? I'm confused

The wheels dictate how tall the RV will be above the ground. The stabilizers are just that - stabilizers. You shouldn't have to raise them in order to get the ladder to touch ground. Can't say on your model, but my stairs are adjustable length for a reason. Having taken the 'last step (actually two with blood)' for a ride, I keep the RV as low as possible now. On my TT, I had bubble levelers on the sides and only raised stabilizers to ground contact and then level. If I could lower any without losing ground contact I'd do that.

 

[jhuband]

They screw down to the ground
If you have blocks under them they will require less screwing down

They are in no way designed to lift the trailer

Ohhh that makes sense. Camping World set it up for me. I'm learning all this as I go. And any block will work? Doesn't have to be anything fancy? Also the trailer beside me has some type of jack under his slide out. Is this a good idea? Does it help with movement or wear/tear?

 

[jhuband]

The wheels dictate how tall the RV will be above the ground. The stabilizers are just that - stabilizers. You shouldn't have to raise them in order to get the ladder to touch ground. Can't say on your model, but my stairs are adjustable length for a reason. Having taken the 'last step (actually two with blood)' for a ride, I keep the RV as low as possible now. On my TT, I had bubble levelers on the sides and only raised stabilizers to ground contact and then level. If I could lower any without losing ground contact I'd do that.

I'll take a look at that tomorrow. What do you mean losing ground contact? Like when I'm cranking the stabilizers they are as far up as they can go without losing contact with the ground? Along with the front piece where the propane is?

I know I sound like a dumb blonde, but I like clarification. I'm very worried I'm going to mess something up or not do something right.

I'll also have to see how my stairs adjust... its a 2670MK I think I'm in bed rn or I'd get my butt up and look.. but I'm tired LOL

 

[ajg617]

Ohhh that makes sense. Camping World set it up for me. I'm learning all this as I go. And any block will work? Doesn't have to be anything fancy? Also the trailer beside me has some type of jack under his slide out. Is this a good idea? Does it help with movement or wear/tear?

Personally, I wouldn't put anything under my slide out unless I had a known problem with it - and then it would be back to GD or the dealer. Technically, they are designed to provide the best stability when extended. The caveat is that usually one side of the RV is heavier than the other so some stabilizer adjustment might be required once the slide out is extended (probably not on a concrete slab though). Some folks prefer wood, my back likes the cheap light weight plastic blocks. Lower the stabilizers until they contact firmly with the ground (of course raise them all the way before you tow anywhere). My TT didn't have a slide out but was heavier on the drivers side so I would lower those stabilizers first - just the way I did it.

 

[sande005]

Several options to try.
1. A buddy on his other brand trailer didn't like the wiggle, so installed 4 (yes 4!) more stabilizing jacks - two more on each side equally spaced from front to back. Got the trailer level both ways, then did each corner jack, then did the mid ones. His wife is happy, which is what counts.
2. As noted, using blocks under so they don't have to be extended as far helps reduce the tendency to allow wiggle.
3. X-Chocks go in between the tires, and help suppress suspension movement. Note that they are NOT for preventing the trailer from rolling, and they can loosen up as tire pressure reduces from cooling off.
4. You can buy JT Strongarm (https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jacks/Lippert/LC191025.html?) braces to shore up the stabilizing jacks. There are other versions of these out there.

I did the last 3 on my old 5th, and while not a cure, did help.
I don't see a need on my 2670MK, so I just use a stack of blocks under each jack and call it good.

 

[sande005]

Backing up, since you are really new at this:

1. Use boards, blocks, or curved blocks under the wheels to get the trailer exactly level side to side.
2. Do whatever your hitch needs to unhitch.
3. Use the tongue jack to raise/lower the trailer to get it front to back level. Use blocking to reduce how far it has to extend, and to give it a firm base.
4. Go around to each corner, and lower each corner jack until it is firmly in contact with the ground. Use blocks/wood/etc. so you don't have to lower them a lot. And give them a firm base so they don't loosen up on soft surfaces. Firm contact, but not enough to begin to lift that corner. You may want to recheck all 4 after a while, to make sure they are still firm after everything has settled in.

Never try to support a slide out - they are trouble prone enough without the un-designed additional stress.
For blocking plastic lego blocks, scrap treated lumber, or anything else similar that is hard can be used.

 

[Chipworkz]

I just bought our new 2024 Imagine 2800BH and yes it moved around a lot! Like mentioned, I just finished installing the JT Strong Arms (Had them on my previous 5th wheel) and they made a huge difference. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UGLPAC/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Even trying to make the trailer rock, the noisy blinds no longer clank against the windows.

 

[FjClay]

Backing up, since you are really new at this:

1. Use boards, blocks, or curved blocks under the wheels to get the trailer exactly level side to side.
2. Do whatever your hitch needs to unhitch.
3. Use the tongue jack to raise/lower the trailer to get it front to back level. Use blocking to reduce how far it has to extend, and to give it a firm base.
4. Go around to each corner, and lower each corner jack until it is firmly in contact with the ground. Use blocks/wood/etc. so you don't have to lower them a lot. And give them a firm base so they don't loosen up on soft surfaces. Firm contact, but not enough to begin to lift that corner. You may want to recheck all 4 after a while, to make sure they are still firm after everything has settled in.

Never try to support a slide out - they are trouble prone enough without the un-designed additional stress.
For blocking plastic lego blocks, scrap treated lumber, or anything else similar that is hard can be used.

Don’t forget to chock the wheels before unhooking

 

[sande005]

Don’t forget to chock the wheels before unhooking

Oops, yes - extremely important. Had mine try to roll away on me once, while I was playing with the jacks. Very scary. That is where I learned, as stated on the package, that X-Chocks are NOT for blocking the wheels to prevent rolling. They are only for stabilizing. Good old Harbor Freight chocks, or now my preferred are the curved "drive up" levelers that include their own chocks.

 

[jhuband]

Several options to try.
1. A buddy on his other brand trailer didn't like the wiggle, so installed 4 (yes 4!) more stabilizing jacks - two more on each side equally spaced from front to back. Got the trailer level both ways, then did each corner jack, then did the mid ones. His wife is happy, which is what counts.
2. As noted, using blocks under so they don't have to be extended as far helps reduce the tendency to allow wiggle.
3. X-Chocks go in between the tires, and help suppress suspension movement. Note that they are NOT for preventing the trailer from rolling, and they can loosen up as tire pressure reduces from cooling off.
4. You can buy JT Strongarm (https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jacks/Lippert/LC191025.html?) braces to shore up the stabilizing jacks. There are other versions of these out there.

I did the last 3 on my old 5th, and while not a cure, did help.
I don't see a need on my 2670MK, so I just use a stack of blocks under each jack and call it good.

Oops, yes - extremely important. Had mine try to roll away on me once, while I was playing with the jacks. Very scary. That is where I learned, as stated on the package, that X-Chocks are NOT for blocking the wheels to prevent rolling. They are only for stabilizing. Good old Harbor Freight chocks, or now my preferred are the curved "drive up" levelers that include their own chocks.

What do those look like? Drive up leveler? Or is there a brand i can search?

 

[sande005]

What do those look like? Drive up leveler? Or is there a brand i can search?

The first big name in these was Andersen (Camper leveler - Andersen Hitches), but others liked similar from Beech Lane even more. And now I see Camco and others have gotten into them. Some are sold to be jack replacements for changing tires, more than camping levelers.
Essentially big curved "chocks" that you put under one side of the camper, and as you drive forward they raise the tires. If you get the "LevelMate Pro" leveling gadget, then you can observe on your phone how level you are as you move, from the drivers seat. No more getting in and out and checking a bubble level!
I've only had a couple of sites where the Andersen's didn't provide enough lift, and I had to resort to traditional "lego" style blocks. And after almost 10 yrs, haven't dropped the trailer by going too far forward....although judging by how loud my wife was a couple of times, I got pretty close.

 

[CedarCreekWoody]

For the most part you need to just accept it will never be as solid as a building. It takes awhile to get used to it. If you stack orange blocks or wooden blocks in most cases the taller the stack the more stable it is. They wobble less than the legs.

 

[Chipworkz]

If you haven't tried the JT Strong Arms yet or similar, you should. The trailer is very solid now since I added them. As solid as a building? No but still very stable even when trying to make the trailer rock. Walking gently through the trailer before would make the blinds clank. Trying as hard as I can to make it rock now, I can't get the blinds to clank at all. This is also without any chocks, or x-chocks as the trailer is sitting in my level garage so it is 100% based on just the JT Strong Arms.