Andersen AUH - Threads Ready to Strip in Square Coupler Tube

[roegs01]

Photos show the main point of what's going on with my AUH. This is the bolt that gets torqued to 60-70 ft pounds. I noticed the last few times I used the hitch that the bolt was turning harder than normal as I torqued it up. After a closer look the threads are very worn and some of the aluminum thread material has bonded to the bolt. For those that use the AUH, have any of you experienced this before? I'll call Andersen Tech Support tomorrow and see what they have to say. I'm thinking that there is a new coupler tube in my future.

 

[SilentService]

Photos show the main point of what's going on with my AUH. This is the bolt that gets torqued to 60-70 ft pounds. I noticed the last few times I used the hitch that the bolt was turning harder than normal as I torqued it up. After a closer look the threads are very worn and some of the aluminum thread material has bonded to the bolt. For those that use the AUH, have any of you experienced this before? I'll call Andersen Tech Support tomorrow and see what they have to say. I'm thinking that there is a new coupler tube in my future.


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I've had mine for about 6 years, rarely remove it from the bed and have not experienced this issue. Of course I have never fully removed the bolt but it still has no resistance when I torque or loosen it. Keep me posted on what they have to say.

Tim

 

[roegs01]

I've had mine for about 6 years, rarely remove it from the bed and have not experienced this issue. Of course I have never fully removed the bolt but it still has no resistance when I torque or loosen it.....

Thats an interesting point about not removing the hitch from the bed. Mine comes out whenever we're home and not traveling. Also, when we stay at an RV park for more than a couple days, I always loosen the coupler bolt to take tension off the hitch assembly and then re-torque again when we leave. My coupler threads get worked quite a bit. A helicoil (or similar) might be better for my situation as threads would wear less. I'd consider (and possibly prefer) something like that, but it would need to be blessed by Andersen so I can stay under their warranty / liability umbrella. I'll bring it up when I talk to them.

 

[Hoopy Frood]

If you're screwing a steel bolt into aluminum threads anti-seize is your friend. Just be sure to adjust the torque setting accordingly though.

 

[roegs01]

Spoke with Andersen today and they said to submit a warranty claim with photos, which I did. I also asked the Tech about any lubricant on the threads and he mentioned anti-seize. When I asked about any adjustments to torque on the bolt with anti-seize, he said no adjustment needed - torque to same value. I was honestly a little surprised, but then again, I'm not a machinist etc.

 

[Hoopy Frood]

The tech is wrong, you should lower the torque settings 15-20% if you use any kind of lubricant, of which anti-seize is one. Unless specified otherwise, torque settings are based on dry threads.

 

[roegs01]

Andersen Tech Support gets an A+ for quick response etc. They already replied back saying the new coupler is being shipped out. Turn around time between a description of my issue and the part getting shipped was literally around 30 minutes.

Not sure what to say about the anti-seize. I'd have thought the same as Hoopy Frood, but the second tech also mentioned possibly a little lubricant but no mention of torque adjustment. I'll get a new bolt and probably run the new one dry as well.

 

[Hoopy Frood]

"I'll get a new bolt and probably run the new one dry as well."

Better get a couple then.

 

[jsm180]

Don't over think it, 60ft lbs is plenty of torque for the job, greased or not. Anti seize will prolong the life of the parts.

 

[Longshhm]

Photos show the main point of what's going on with my AUH. This is the bolt that gets torqued to 60-70 ft pounds. I noticed the last few times I used the hitch that the bolt was turning harder than normal as I torqued it up. After a closer look the threads are very worn and some of the aluminum thread material has bonded to the bolt. For those that use the AUH, have any of you experienced this before? I'll call Andersen Tech Support tomorrow and see what they have to say. I'm thinking that there is a new coupler tube in my future.


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I noticed in your signature that you’re pulling a Solitude 2930RL with a RAM short bed. I am doin the same. How has the Andersen AUH worked for you on towing, cab clearance, chucking, and tow height (degree of level when hooked up to tow)? I’ve considered going to the AUH because of the weight, but have been reticent to make the switch from a traditional hitch. In advance, thank you for your information.

 

[Chaps2018]

…How has the Andersen AUH worked for you…

One additional question that may be pertinent—are you using air bags or Timbren’s on the truck rear axle?

 

[Dutchman2]

The tech is wrong, you should lower the torque settings 15-20% if you use any kind of lubricant, of which anti-seize is one. Unless specified otherwise, torque settings are based on dry threads.

Agreed. Assuming based on torque listed the bolt is 1/2" course thread. When anti-seize is used it will lower the fiction coefficient. You are not close to bolt yield so that's not a concern. The aluminum threads have deformed under clamp load. Worn tap during manufacturing or a torque wrench out of calibration are potential causes. Looks like there is the required bolt thread engagement to hold the clamp joint based on bolt size from the pictures. I lean to the possibility the part was defective from Anderson. Hope they honor your claim.

Dutchman2

 

[TimtheToolMan]

Agreed. Assuming based on torque listed the bolt is 1/2" course thread. When anti-seize is used it will lower the fiction coefficient. You are not close to bolt yield so that's not a concern. The aluminum threads have deformed under clamp load. Worn tap during manufacturing or a torque wrench out of calibration are potential causes. Looks like there is the required bolt thread engagement to hold the clamp joint based on bolt size from the pictures. I lean to the possibility the part was defective from Anderson. Hope they honor your claim.

Dutchman2

Also, if the bolt is removed frequently an anti-seize lubricant should be considered because the nut is aluminum so wear becomes more of a concern. If the threads have issues down the road run a tap to clean some and then lubricate on occasion.

 

[roegs01]

I noticed in your signature that you’re pulling a Solitude 2930RL with a RAM short bed. I am doin the same. How has the Andersen AUH worked for you on towing, cab clearance, chucking, and tow height (degree of level when hooked up to tow)? I’ve considered going to the AUH because of the weight, but have been reticent to make the switch from a traditional hitch. In advance, thank you for your information.

We love our 2930RL and were sorry to hear that it did not make the cut at Grand Design for the future. Its lighter weight makes it a perfect fit for SWR trucks. Because this is our first 5th wheel I cannot really compare the Andersen to other hitches, but I will say that I'm very pleased with it. My wife and I both have back issues and we love the light weight putting it in and out of the truck. Couple of notes related to your questions:

1. We find the Andersen very easy to hitch and unhitch the 2930 to our truck. The ball and red funnel that Andersen uses makes it a breeze.

2. Because the Andersen it technically a ball hitch, some states require chains. To be legal wherever we to, I added the Andersen chain system.

3. Andersen support has been excellent.

4. My RAM 3500 has the auto level rear suspension. While the truck stays level, the 2930 runs a tad nose high. Its kinda hard to tell in photos as it depends on the photo angle. I run the Andersen ball in the lowest position. 2930 pin box is in its factory position.

5. I have tonneau cover and as a result have the velcro rails on top of the truck bed rails. I have 7.5 inches of bed rail to 5th wheel clearance. see photos. I could probably drop the nose a bit more.

6. I've done a couple changes to the 2930. Those include slipper spring suspension system, shock absorbers, and a Mooryde pin box along with the special Andersen updated plate for the pin box.

7. Do we get chucking? We do get some, but its not that bad. Happens exclusively on concrete roads and mostly in northern states that are exposed to freezing temps. Unfortunately I have nothing to compare it against since again, it's our first 5th wheel. I will say that we're very happy with the ride and how it tows.

 

[roegs01]

One additional question that may be pertinent—are you using air bags or Timbren’s on the truck rear axle?

My truck has RAM rear auto level suspension, so no additional bags or changes to the factory suspension,

 

[TimtheToolMan]

Photos show the main point of what's going on with my AUH. This is the bolt that gets torqued to 60-70 ft pounds. I noticed the last few times I used the hitch that the bolt was turning harder than normal as I torqued it up. After a closer look the threads are very worn and some of the aluminum thread material has bonded to the bolt. For those that use the AUH, have any of you experienced this before? I'll call Andersen Tech Support tomorrow and see what they have to say. I'm thinking that there is a new coupler tube in my future.


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After looking closer at the female thread, it appears that there is some thread yielding going on. The tread is raised above the plate surface. A counter sink should have been drilled before tapping. This material could break off and get pulled farther in the part. Also, the aluminum yield strength is very likely somewhat less than even a grade 2 bolt so the specified torque should be less than a steel bolt in a steel nut.

Due to the mentioned yielding, the applied load during use maybe too high for the thread size.

 

[Longshhm]

My truck has RAM rear auto level suspension, so no additional bags or changes to the factory suspension,

I have added airbags to the rear suspension. They have been a big help with leveling.

 

[Longshhm]

We love our 2930RL and were sorry to hear that it did not make the cut at Grand Design for the future. Its lighter weight makes it a perfect fit for SWR trucks. Because this is our first 5th wheel I cannot really compare the Andersen to other hitches, but I will say that I'm very pleased with it. My wife and I both have back issues and we love the light weight putting it in and out of the truck. Couple of notes related to your questions:
……
Unfortunately I have nothing to compare it against since again, it's our first 5th wheel. I will say that we're very happy with the ride and how it tows.


If I didn’t know better, I would think you’d taken pictures of our rig. I have the same slightly nose high setup, though I have made some adjustments to get it where it is. We, too, have the Morryde rubber pin box, and I’ve set it at the top position, closest to frame. I’ve also set the B&W slider hitch as low as possible. Those two adjustments have gotten us pretty close to level. We have a retractable tonneau cover, but still have 6-7” of clearance. It pulls very well.

But, the B&W hitch is a 305 lb. beast; moving it is a big chore (so we usually don’t), and I hate dragging the additional weight around. That’s really the only reason I’ve considered the AUH or the Curt Crosswing. My primary concern with both is the amount of offset for tight turns/maneuverability; I’ve had some situations where I’ve needed the slider moved back the 12” offset it provides. Any comments you, or anyone else may have, regarding this would be appreciated. I know it has been discussed much, but I’ve not come across anyone else with virtually the same rig we have. Thanks.
Mike

 

[Longshhm]

Okay, I used the wrong “quote” button; my commentary starts with “If I didn’t know better,…”

 

[roegs01]

......But, the B&W hitch is a 305 lb. beast; moving it is a big chore (so we usually don’t), and I hate dragging the additional weight around. That’s really the only reason I’ve considered the AUH or the Curt Crosswing. My primary concern with both is the amount of offset for tight turns/maneuverability; I’ve had some situations where I’ve needed the slider moved back the 12” offset it provides. Any comments you, or anyone else may have, regarding this would be appreciated. I know it has been discussed much, but I’ve not come across anyone else with virtually the same rig we have. Thanks.
Mike

Sorry....I was typing my reply late last night and see that I did not answer questions about clearance and turns. Unfortunately the answer for clearance is 'it depends'. The pin box adapter that Andersen supplies with their hitch can be mounted 2 ways. It can either be mounted with the red funnel in front of the pinbox pin, or it can be swung 180* where the red funnel is behind the pinbox pin. Andersen supplies a guide that tells you how to measure to determine which direction it should be mounted (you can view it online and measure before you purchase the hitch). In my case (and probably yours) I had to mount it with the red funnel behind the pin to avoid the pin box wings from hitting my tonneau cover rails during a tight turn. Mounting the funnel in this way moves the 2930RL nose closer to the truck cab and during a very tight turn it would hit. While I'd prefer that I had clearance for a 90* turn, its rare that I allow us to get at that much of a turn angle. Its hard on equipment. But....since we don't have cab clearance I remind my wife to keep her eyes on the cab at all times. If I did not have the tonneau rails, I think I could mount the funnel the other direction and gain the cab clearance.

Hope this gives you some idea of what to expect. As with everything on RV's, it's all give and take. As I mentioned earlier, it works great for us and I've never regretted buying it - but then again it's all I've ever owned. We leave Saturday for a trip from Mpls to St Louis. My Andersen is hanging on a couple shelf brackets screwed to the garage wall. We'll simply carry the Andersen out to the truck bed with little effort and away we go. If you decide to purchase an Andersen, keep an eye out for used ones. I've seen them on Facebook Marketplace and CraigsList and a guy can save some good money this way.