Another Emergency Repair On The Road

Steven@147

T&S RV Adventures
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Well, Tami and I had to complete another repair on the road. Four years of fulltiming without a roadside problem and now 2 this year. OK<OK I"'ll admit the leaf spring failure was partly my fault. I didn't retorque the Ubolts soon enough! You happy now?

This time it was the right front brake on the trailer. Our TPMS saved us.
When we left Carthage Texas in the morning, traveling south toward Galveston, the tire pressures started out at 105 psi and it was 35*.

By the time we got to Houston the pressures had gone up @ 119-120 psi and running @ 80-85*. This is pretty much normal as the further south we went the ambient temps had gone up around 73*.

Then we got a TPMS high pressure warning on the trailer right front tire. It was up to 126 psi and the tire air temp had gone up to 90 and climbing. That is not normal. I kept a watch on it and it kept going up in temp. By the time I got the rig off the road to check things out and into a Buc'ees parking lot, the tire air temp was 100*. I used my temp laser gun on the rim and it read 200*, but no smoke. CRAP!

The back side of the brake backing plate was very hot to the touch. I waited a little bit to lets things cool off, went into Buc'ees and told the manager what was up. I had parked the RV way out back, out of the way, let things cool before tearing into it to find out what was wrong, bearings / brakes?
Got the tire up on a jack and the tire was hard to turn. Once I got the tire off and tried to turn the drum, I heard a twang, like the brake released! The drum was very hot. Got the drum off and the adjuster, star wheel and lower spring fell out on the ground. You can see the damaged brake assembly. The drum brake shoe surface was normal but the inside face surface where the brake magnet contacts the drum was chewed up pretty good.

I checked the bearings and they were hot but not scored and no signs of pitting and were fine. Fortunately I carry a right and left complete brake assembly. I've carried these spare brake assemblies for a couple years, now I needed it.
Five nuts, cut the brake wires and off with the old and on with the new and reconnected the brake wires. Cleaned up a lot of brake dust and stuff, repacked the bearings, installed a new rear seal, by this time the bearings were cool. Got it all done and tested, Tami hit the truck brakes while spinning the drum, all was ok. Took about 2.5 hours to get-er-done! I took a couple breaks to rest my knees and back.

I put the old drum back on to get us where we are going. Safely arrived at our destination and in the RV site hole. Kept checking the TPMS and it was now running normal.
Now I have to get a new drum and spare replacement brake assembly. Our RV TST-507 saved our back-side from a real, maybe even worse event. They do their job no matter what TPMS you use. Keep an eye on it!
 

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Good fix! Always nice to be able to handle these issues yourself.

I carry a brake assembly as well as a hub with greased bearings ready to go. Never had to use either yet, but just in case.................................
 
Good catch and fix. Having the spare parts along for the ride sure takes 3/4s of the breakdown stress away. Makes me think about the spare we have...sitting at the sticks and brick.

On a side note, to source the ele brake replacements check at any rally you attend if the brake guys are swapping out brakes. We got our back ups free , they were nearly new with less than 1,000 miles on them. They would rather give them free to a new home than throw out perfectly good assemblies.
 
Last year (2024) after a catastrophic A-Frame/Front Tongue Failure on our way home we encountered 103+ Fahrenheit temps and entertained the chimes from our TST-507 system. We had already (on the same trip) encountered at least two stem failures, and one outright flat, then to cap it all off we now have a "High Temp" tire as well as a close to high pressure tire.
TPMS systems are mandatory and quite useful. We have been traveling 10K+ miles annually just road tripping since 2014. The total of our tire issues were two tires across 2 RV's (one the current RV on our maiden journey) and that was 2019. This trip we had 1 flat, 2 stem failure, 1 high temp tire, 2 warnings of over pressure (we are reasonably certain ambient temps contributed), and a catastrophic hitch failure . . . .all but the hitch we received great TPMS warnings.
 
You can see the damaged brake assembly. The drum brake shoe surface was normal but the inside face surface where the brake magnet contacts the drum was chewed up pretty good.
I wonder how it happened that the magnet obviously was getting 'rode hard' but somehow not causing the shoes to move outward against the drum and wearing the brake pad.
 
I wonder how it happened that the magnet obviously was getting 'rode hard' but somehow not causing the shoes to move outward against the drum and wearing the brake pad.
I don't know, kind of makes you wonder doesn't it! A lot of pieces of the star wheel adjuster, chunks of melted magnet and magnet spring fell out on the ground when I took the drum off.

But if you look at the damaged brake assembly, the cable that pulls on the adjuster pawl, that then contacts the star wheel adjuster nubs to automatically adjust the brake shoes, is still there. How did the star wheel adjuster come dislodged from its position?
Even if something got stuck between the magnet and the drum face, it should have moved the arm lever that activates (spreads) the brake shoes. Unless the lever arm was stuck on the pivot pin.

I don't know, it's weird.
 
Hey it's Sunday, what else are we going to talk about?
For those not familiar with how electric drum brakes work, trying to maybe troubleshoot an electric drum brake problem,

I going to feebly attempt to explain it, as in diagnosing what happened to our brakes,

As the brake drum rotates clockwise (RV moving forward), the magnet gets electrically energized and sticks to the drum inside face, the magnet gets pulled clockwise with rotation of the drum, the activation arm attached to the magnet pulls clockwise spreading apart the brake shoes at the top.

Once the electric energy is cut off, the magnet releases from the drum inside face, the magnet spring pulls it off the drum, the brake shoe activation arm relaxes, the two big springs at the top of the assembly pulls the brake shoes back together, the brakes are released.

The star wheel adjuster (missing in this picture) when adjusted out, spreads the bottom of the brake shoes apart which keeps the brake shoe material in full contact with the surface of the drums when the brakes are applied.

If the shoes are not kept properly adjusted at the bottom, with brake use, the top of the brake shoes will wear down more than the bottom, so there will not be full shoe material contact with the drum.

Auto adjusting brakes - supposed to automatically compensate for brake shoe wear by automatically turning the star wheel adjuster by very small movements of the adjusting pawl everytime the brakes are used, thus spreading the brake shoes wider at the bottom keeping them in full contact with all of the drum surface.

Manual brakes - the owner must manually turn the star wheel adjuster to spread the shoes at the bottom to compensate for wear by going through the backing plate slots using a brake spoon lever.
There is no adjusting pawl at the bottom or tension cable.

Now with days gone by with old cars and trucks with hydraulic drum brakes - you would have a hydraulic wheel cylinder at the top of the assembly with two pins sticking out of it that would spread the brake shoes apart with hydraulic pressure and use of the brakes. When hydraulic pressure was released, the two springs at the top would pull the brake shoes back together and release the brakes.

Same principle of operation with both- hydraulic or electrical drum brakes - just different methods of spreading the brake shoes apart. No magnet or electrical wires on hydraulic drum brakes but you would still have the star wheel adjuster.

Well I guess it doesn't matter what happened to our brakes that caused us a problem. I just replaced the complete assembly. A lot better/easier, I remember rebuilding drum brake assemblies, what a PITA messing with stretching the top springs and clipping them in, and setting the brake shoes in and the little caps and springs that held the shoes to the backing plate. Even if you had the right brake tools to do the job!

Well guys did I keep it simple enough, but yet explain it correctly?
 

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