Are you using a Pullrite Superlight hitch? Thoughts please

[We R BOB]

Greetings everyone!

I posted in the Momentum forum that DW and I are buying a 351M. Now I need to decide which hitch I will pulling it with. I think I want to go with the Superlite, over the traditional 5th wheel hitch, for the same reason as others...easier to install/remove, much lighter, and takes up less space in the bed. Not to mention that it just seems much more simpler to use (IMHO).

I still have plenty of time to decide on the hitch, but I would surely appreciate everyone's comments on why (or why not) I should go (or not go) with the Superlite.

Thanks a bunch in advance.

 

[nisbitch]

I pulling my 28bh with a Superlite. Haven’t had any problems. There is a little chucking at times, but I don’t think it’s from any movement in the hitch. It’s solid, but light. There was no way I was buying a 200 lb hitch. I can’t get 90 degrees with my F250, but pretty close. I would definitely buy it again.

 

[We R BOB]

Thank you. I appreciate the feedback

 

[Twigsnberries]

I just bought a Solitude 380FL. My old 5th wheel was about the same weight. I have been using the Pullrite SUperlite 2600 for 3 years. I have towed over 10k miles. I absolutely love it. I cant imagine changing back to a conventional 5th wheel hitch. I may try a Reesebox one day, but that about it!!

 

[bshgto]

You might want to consider the Andersen Ultimate. I have both the Andersen (steel version) and the Pullrite 2600. I just got bored one day and went out and bought the Pullrite for a change of pace. What I have found with both, The Andersen dose not move when hitched and stopping and starting, the Pullrite by design does and you can fell it. MY wife has always been a little un nerved from this movement. The Andersen ball slides into the ball socket easier when off center, the ball sticks to the funnel on the Pullrite and you have to be more on target for it to work or shake the truck to get it to move to the socket. Not sure why this is other than the funnel on the Andersen is powder coated and is a smoother surface for the ball to slide on the Pullrite is plain steel and is slightly ruff. The ball lock on the Andersen is a handle mounted on the pin box or the bottom of the camper and is easy to see if its locked or not, the Pullrite you have a metal rod that you have to locate and use to turn the device to lock. The metal rod you can lose (I have) already. The locking mechanism is harder to see and at night you need a flash light to check this and is not idiot proof. The Andersen you can lock in pitch dark with confidence.
I like the Pullrite`s design better, looks more robust ,has a better paint job , nice decals, more steel and nice welds. The Andersen is just enough steel and is lighter but how much metal and welds do you need for a hitch in the end? But the movement on the metal bed saver plates with the Pullright bothers me and the wife. The Ball on the Andersen is Aluminum and was starting to gall (2 years use) on the sides from sliding into the cup but is replaceable for a few dollars. The Pullright`s ball is steel and is not replaceable you have to buy the whole head and ball and is very expensive. The Pullrite is smaller and takes up less bed space. The Andersen is bigger but the whole locking mechanism is more user friendly on the Andersen, easier to use and is idiot proof YMMV. This is more important than the size difference IMOP.
Which one do I like better???????? I like both for different reasons and will never go back to a plate hitch. I`m currently using the Pullrite but might put the Andersen back in if I cant figure out why the ball on the Pullrite doesn't slide into the socket easier. Before someone comments Yes the Pullrite is installed correctly and the bolts are properly torqued after the trailer weight is is applied which is abut 3200 lbs pin weight.

 

[Twigsnberries]

I have never had an issue hitching. I do have cameras for hitching, but I also use graphite lube on the ball and the cup. I have also never noticed too much motion forward or back. I should have mentioned I started with an Anderson Ult Hitch. I sold it after 3 months. I absolutely didn't trust the aluminum. I know it is strong. I just had a hang up with it. Do you use chains with your Pullrite? I never have, but I am considering going forward. As far as the rod to lock it on goes I can imagine people lose those. I never have. I will also say that I have considered adding a pull chain to it. For now I mount the rod under the seats in the back of the truck. I never leave it outside anywhere. One last note. I have never retorqued the anything after hitched up. Now I feel like I may have been unsafe for the past 3 years. LOL

 

[Twigsnberries]

I just reread my entire manual. I see nowhere in there that mentions retorquing after hitched. Please explain. I am so confused.

 

[JohnEM38]

I have the Pullrite 2600 which replaced a Pullrite 4400 slider. I pull a Reflection 26RL and while I can’t get 90 degrees, I never recall needing too. I use WD-40 on the ball and have never had a problem with the ball sticking to the funnel. I like the Pullrite hitches in general but the 2600 is now my hitch of choice.

 

[bshgto]

mUSt bE spECial

I have the Pullrite 2600 which replaced a Pullrite 440 slider. I pull a Reflection 26RL and while I can’t get 90 degrees, I never recall needing too. I use WD-40 on the ball and have never had a problem with the ball sticking to the funnel. I like the Pullrite hitches in general but the 2600 is now my hitch of choice.

Well then it must be me and I need to find out why or what I am doing to make this happen. The only other variable is I have the Trailer air Air ride Pin Box and the ball by design is not pointed straight down or vertical it is pointed to the back some what and becomes vertical only after the full weight of the trailer is on the 2600. This might be why it does not slide as easily as the Andersen (yes I am getting that lazy) it`s not on the tip of the ball but more to the side. I did not have this issue with the Andersen may be because the Andersen ball is always vertical and the cup allows a certain amount of articulation that the Pullrite does not. Hmmmm. As far as the movement, Just don`t know but will investigate more. Called Pullrite, missy said it is designed to move on the bed plates with start and stop of the trailer because it secured on a ball and it has to "crawl" (my term) up and down on the ball and is inherent with all ball mount hitches, all brands. Should I believe her and let it go ???? I to like this hitch for reasons stated above in my last post but the Andersen has it`s pluses to.
The retorquing is my idea because there HAS to be a certain amount of defection when you put 3200 lbs on a point load with a Aluminum bed (FORD). and yes I can get a small amount of movement on the torque wrench after the camper is loaded. YMMV

 

[NewRVer]

Has anyone else had problems with Chucking? And will i void my warranty if i use the Pull Rite 2400 or 2600 hitch??

 

[Twigsnberries]

I don't have chucking. If you tow with a traditional 5th wheel hitch you will notice a huge difference. It is just a tighter connection around the ball. I will say that if the road is really bad you still feel it. As far as warranty..I have no clue. My GD dealer also sells the Anderson and Pullrite 2600. My guess is that is does not. However, I am no authority. Like I mentioned earlier I am seriously considering the Reese Goosebox. I know the Lippert has said it will not void warranties on their frames.

 

[Daveyator]

We've had our 310GK for 3 years. It's our 1st 5er and we bought it with the Pullrite 2400 so it's the only hitch I've ever used. Never had an issue with the ball sticking. Did have issues with the rotoflex pin box. Pullrite makes a "guard" of sorts because the nature of the hitch causes the rubber piece to work its way out. The initial guard was horrible being a shim, tube, and bolts affair. It clanked horribly. Then Pullrite made a better guard. I called them and asked about my crappy one and to their credit they sent me the new one free of charge. The only problem I have now is light to moderate chucking which some say is the fault of the hitch. Others say a I need a trail air type pin box. But now I see problems with the ball sticking and if it's at an angle I can see why it would. Does the trail air really help with chucking? If so does anyone know which pin box to get for 310GK.