Battery disconnect questions

FlakKnight

Advanced Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2020
Messages
67
Hi all, quick questions I'm hoping someone knows (RE: Imagine XLS series at least) -

1) Does the battery disconnect when pulled completely isolate the batteries meaning they cannot be charged by shore power?
2) It appears the batteries will still charge from 7-pin directly with disconnect pulled based on voltmeter readings, just want to confirm that is correct?
3) Is the Furrion solar port usable with the disconnect pulled (e.g. plug a solar tender using a Furrion adapter rather than leaving the cover off the batteries)?

Thanks!
 
The battery disconnect does not disconnect everything (though it does disconnect the converter/charger from the battery). There will still be parasitic loads such as CO/propane monitors and some others. The only way to completely disconnect the battery is to disconnect the negative terminal lead or install a disconnect switch on the battery terminal.

Rob
 
Hi all, quick questions I'm hoping someone knows (RE: Imagine XLS series at least) -

1) Does the battery disconnect when pulled completely isolate the batteries
NO, as Rob said, there are still parasitic draws on the battery meaning they cannot be charged by shore power?You are correct, the batteries will not charge from shore power with the disconnect engaged
2) It appears the batteries will still charge from 7-pin directly with disconnect pulled based on voltmeter readings, just want to confirm that is correct?
No idea
3) Is the Furrion solar port usable with the disconnect pulled (e.g. plug a solar tender using a Furrion adapter rather than leaving the cover off the batteries)?
On our 2018 303, the solar port cables go directly to the battery terminals. If your rig is wired the same then yes, you could use a solar tender. I'm not sure what you are meaning by "leaving the cover off the batteries"
 
The batteries still charge from the tow vehicle with the disconnect off. The trailer battery powers the trailer brakes in a breakaway situation so the charging circuit is connected at all times when the truck is providing power.
 
I don't think the "parasitic draw" warning applies to all units.

I traced the cabling in mine and the only things hooked to the battery are the generator starter relay and the power disconnect switch. Neither of them will leak any current.

It could be that older units have stuff wired in before the power switch*, but mine doesn't. The only way to make sure is to switch yours off and put an ammeter on it.



*some people hard wire their TPMS repeater straight to the battery, for instance.
 
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I don't think the "parasitic draw" warning applies to all units.

I traced the cabling in mine and the only things hooked to the battery are the generator starter relay and the power disconnect switch. Neither of them will leak any current.

It could be that older units have stuff wired in before the power switch*, but mine doesn't. The only way to make sure is to switch yours off and put an ammeter on it.



*some people hard wire their TPMS repeater straight to the battery, for instance.

I have my TPMS wired ahead of the battery cutoff switch, but I also have a weatherproof switch on the TPMS booster for turning it completely off. Switch is located on the front side of the box.

W5ZHCB8.jpg
 
I don't think the "parasitic draw" warning applies to all units.

I traced the cabling in mine and the only things hooked to the battery are the generator starter relay and the power disconnect switch. Neither of them will leak any current.

It could be that older units have stuff wired in before the power switch*, but mine doesn't. The only way to make sure is to switch yours off and put an ammeter on it.



*some people hard wire their TPMS repeater straight to the battery, for instance.

If that’s all you have, you have a wiring error. Your breakaway switch is required to be connected to the battery, and the smoke, CO and LP detectors are always connected before the disconnect. For safety, you should correct it.
 
I installed a Blue Sea Battery selector switch to isolate the batteries and prevent parasitic drain while parked. I always run with one battery selected to power the hydraulic brakes and break-away.
 
Your breakaway switch is required to be connected to the battery, and the smoke, CO and LP detectors are always connected before the disconnect.
Hmm .. I looked this up and it doesn't say anything about wiring requirements that I could find.
https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/CFR-2008-title49-vol5/pdf/CFR-2008-title49-vol5-sec393-43.pdf paragraph d

My unit is wired the way it came from Grand Design, so it would be their fault if it's wrong.

I understand your point, but I'm not sure there's anything different about having to remember to turn on the cutoff switch versus having to remember to connect the battery.
Having to remember to do both seems more error prone to my simple brain.
 
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My 2020 21bhe has sat for several months with the battery in place and the battery monitor inside still shows full charge. I know that the monitor isn't very accurate but I would expect the battery would be nearly drained in that time period if I had the parasitic drains I've read about in this forum.
 
My 2020 21bhe has sat for several months with the battery in place and the battery monitor inside still shows full charge. I know that the monitor isn't very accurate but I would expect the battery would be nearly drained in that time period if I had the parasitic drains I've read about in this forum.

Lucky you, but the so-called "parasitic draws" you've read about are certainly not a myth.

Maybe your travel trailer is wired differently, but on our fifth wheel we had a draw of close to an amp - measured with a top-quality meter - when the battery "disconnect" switch and everything in the trailer was turned off. For some reason - even smart people here couldn't explain it - that draw was measured at close to two amps in very cold Canadian winter weather.

Like many others who have had a similar problem I reconfigured the battery-related wiring when I replaced the factory "disconnect" switch and now have zero draw when the battery disconnect switch is turned off. As it should be. It has been speculated that GD wires/wired many of its trailers with devices such as alarms and brakes always-powered to protect itself from possible lawsuits.
 
Lucky you, but the so-called "parasitic draws" you've read about are certainly not a myth.

Maybe your travel trailer is wired differently, but on our fifth wheel we had a draw of close to an amp - measured with a top-quality meter - when the battery "disconnect" switch and everything in the trailer was turned off. For some reason - even smart people here couldn't explain it - that draw was measured at close to two amps in very cold Canadian winter weather.

Like many others who have had a similar problem I reconfigured the battery-related wiring when I replaced the factory "disconnect" switch and now have zero draw when the battery disconnect switch is turned off. As it should be. It has been speculated that GD wires/wired many of its trailers with devices such as alarms and brakes always-powered to protect itself from possible lawsuits.

I would sure like to see how you did your config. Just getting the box lids off etc is a PAIN..
 
From all reports 2 rigs on the assembly line can have different wiring. The electrical plan from the factory is "more like guidelines."

My propane sensor is after the disconnect but the front legs, storage lights, solar input, and the brakes are beforehand.

Don't ever get in the way of the trailer brakes! Not even a fuse.
 
Like many others who have had a similar problem I reconfigured the battery-related wiring when I replaced the factory "disconnect" switch and now have zero draw when the battery disconnect switch is turned off. As it should be. It has been speculated that GD wires/wired many of its trailers with devices such as alarms and brakes always-powered to protect itself from possible lawsuits.

I'm curious. Are you driving with the trailer brakes disconnected from the battery so in the event of a breakaway situation the brakes would not apply? I don't imagine there would be any draw from the brakes when they were not activated.
Personally I'm OK with the CO/LP alarms and the brakes still being connected when the the battery is "disconnected."
 
I'm curious. Are you driving with the trailer brakes disconnected from the battery so in the event of a breakaway situation the brakes would not apply? I don't imagine there would be any draw from the brakes when they were not activated.
Personally I'm OK with the CO/LP alarms and the brakes still being connected when the the battery is "disconnected."

From what I’ve been told the CO/LP detector has a big draw and will drain the battery if left connected for any appreciable amount of time.

I installed a battery cutoff drectly to the positive battery output. The only time I turn off the battery is when the trailer is in the storage yard, unoccupied.
 
I'm curious. Are you driving with the trailer brakes disconnected from the battery so in the event of a breakaway situation the brakes would not apply? I don't imagine there would be any draw from the brakes when they were not activated.
Personally I'm OK with the CO/LP alarms and the brakes still being connected when the the battery is "disconnected."

Absolutely not, that would be foolish.

I cannot hook up to our trailer for travel without using the landing gear to raise and lower it onto the hitch. Therefore the battery disconnect switch must be turned on, and landing gear and brakes and everything else powered or available to be powered, when we are starting travel. The switch remains on until we're finished using the trailer and it's going to be sitting unused for days / weeks / months at which point I turn off the battery disconnect switch.

You can be "personally OK" with whatever you like! The fact is that our previous trailer (2018 Reflection) and our current one had a constant low drain on the battery even when the factory battery "disconnect" switch was turned off. The trailer sitting for a few weeks would kill a typical dealer-installed battery dead flat.

Do that once and the battery's capacity is reduced, do it a few times and the battery is junk. I personally don't like that, so I reconfigured things including installing new switches so that our battery has zero load on it when the battery disconnect switch is turned off. Many others have done the same thing. But you can personally be OK with whatever you want to be OK with.
 
Hi all, quick questions I'm hoping someone knows (RE: Imagine XLS series at least) -

1) Does the battery disconnect when pulled completely isolate the batteries meaning they cannot be charged by shore power?
2) It appears the batteries will still charge from 7-pin directly with disconnect pulled based on voltmeter readings, just want to confirm that is correct?
3) Is the Furrion solar port usable with the disconnect pulled (e.g. plug a solar tender using a Furrion adapter rather than leaving the cover off the batteries)?

Thanks!

I personally have found no use for the factory battery disconnect switch (not what I had expected). I keep mine always in the closed position. You are correct that if it is open, you don't charge the batteries from shore power. With it open, I have about 1/2 amp (6 watts) parasitic load that other have explained. I installed a marine battery switch for the rare occasions that I'm not on shore power, mostly when the unit is at the RV dealer for service.

Yes, the 7-pin connector will supply power to the battery directly. My wiring has the 7-pin connector power connected to the RV 12V power grid through a 20 amp auto reset fuse. It is the only way to operate the jacks after the dealer drains your batteries (lesson learned).

The Furrion solar port was wired directly to my batteries in my unit. I have read that others had the wires not connected but folded beside their batteries from the dealer. I think there is a 10 amp fuse in line between the connector and the battery, so be aware that power delivered or extracted is limited. I think the connector is rated for 20 amp so the fuse can be changed out if needed.

Hope this helps.
 

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