Battery Drain

Here's the correct thread see my post 11

Sorry wrong thread link attached originally will locate and post in the am

Dan
 
FWIW today after I checked and topped up my battery, I checked for current draw with the battery disconnect switch off...0.00 amps. The power is still provided to the front landing gear as that's connected before the battery disconnect switch but that's all. With the disconnect switch on and everything physically turned off, the propane detector and the radio still powered...didn't get a good reading but they appear to be drawing 0.1 - 0.2 amps.

Dave
 
Thanks for all the information. I have the battery disconnected now and will charge it and disconnect the negative post after we use it this weekend.
 
Rob and Rob -- you guys are really sharp engineers sharing outstanding technical expertise (much appreciated) but I got a feeling you could do a smokin standup !!! We will be taking our rv out of storage on Monday and as noted in an earlier post in this thread I will share my findings re: our batt condition after nearly 7 months of sd winter/spring.

Just Dan
That will be an interesting reveal and a good testament to any battery's longevity when stored well below freezing and well past recommended manufacturers charging recommendations. We actually toss batteries to the smelter after 6 months or more has passed since their last charge cycle. We've found the mortality rate regardless of manufacturer to go from 5% which is the IEEE standard to over 30% and for the ones that don't fail their life span is cut at least in half. What the real shame is that battery technology has come so far in the last 10 years but it's not being put to good use because the market is driven by the consumer who wants cheap so that's what is delivered.
 
found this link on "the" Google. List of manufacturers and who they build batteries for.

Me, I've switched to Costco because they are better priced and better warranty and they give you no hassle. My group 27 Interstate DC's just weren't cutting it. Recently had to return an interstate on my old truck that was only a year and half old.



http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/batbrand.htm
 
Just keep in mind that pretty much the entire market of batteries regardless of where they have listed as location are manufactured in China. The last straggler in the U.S. That I know of is Deka batteries but unfortunately I can't endorse them as they have one of the highest failure rates on the market.
 
Great news Dave just the info many have been looking for. Believe my hitch light works too when batt switch off will confirm next week.

Dan


FWIW today after I checked and topped up my battery, I checked for current draw with the battery disconnect switch off...0.00 amps. The power is still provided to the front landing gear as that's connected before the battery disconnect switch but that's all. With the disconnect switch on and everything physically turned off, the propane detector and the radio still powered...didn't get a good reading but they appear to be drawing 0.1 - 0.2 amps.

Dave
 
Great news Dave just the info many have been looking for. Believe my hitch light works too when batt switch off will confirm next week.

Dan

Another light that still works with the battery switch turned off, is the overhead light in the forward storage compartment. It would be easy to accidentally leave this one on if packing up in the daylight.

Rob
 
Another light that still works with the battery switch turned off, is the overhead light in the forward storage compartment. It would be easy to accidentally leave this one on if packing up in the daylight.

Rob

Reason I added total kill switch for both of my stereo systems including memory circuit. One stereo can kill 4 Trojan T-105 in 4 to 5 days. Dont ask how I know. This is about only answer if you want to keep DC power on RV without total disconnect. Kill switch is the lighted one above USB charger.
Scott

ideas for owners 2 002.jpg
 
Rob--you and others beginning about "X" date got the deluxe models with a forward comp. lite......ours not so much.......I had to add a LED one powered by copper tops !!!

Dan
 
On our coach another item that is still drawing power with the battery "disconnect" switch off is the propane detector. Instructions say to during storage to turn disconnect switch off and disconnect battery. I didn't want to remove a dozen screws on the battery box and then get a wrench to remove the wires from the battery so I pulled a switch out of my boat junk pile and installed it on the positive side of the battery cable.
sw 1.jpg
sorry about the sidewaysness
 
Nice job. I plan on doing the same. It also makes for a great " just in case " total power kill.
Scott
 
On our coach another item that is still drawing power with the battery "disconnect" switch off is the propane detector. Instructions say to during storage to turn disconnect switch off and disconnect battery. I didn't want to remove a dozen screws on the battery box and then get a wrench to remove the wires from the battery so I pulled a switch out of my boat junk pile and installed it on the positive side of the battery cable.
View attachment 2229
sorry about the sidewaysness

Perfect installation! Kills everything and you don't have to pull any cables.
 
Nice job. I plan on doing the same. It also makes for a great " just in case " total power kill.
Scott

Same plan here. I am going to add a second battery in an identical box on the starboard side. Have the box and associated parts from GD and the port/starboard/both switch in hand. Interesting comment by J&G garage about the "dozen screws" holding down the battery cover . . . I have a dozen screw locations . . . but only two are used to hold the cover in place:confused:

I like port/starboard vs left/right vs street/curb . . . J&G and Scott will get it :).

Rob
 
Ya I'm still trying to get used to street side, curb side.:) When we did our orientation the guy at the dealer said they usually leave out all but a couple screws. I figured I had the screws and had the holes so...Are you going to use the two batteries as 2 different banks or connect them in parallel for one bank? I did an energy audit on all the 12vdc devices on board and if we're VERY frugal with the power I don't see getting more than about 2 days off one 12v "deep cylce" battery. I think I see some T-105s in my future.

Jim
 
Thanks Rob. I feel better if I can shut everything off when I want to. On our sailboat I had a switch for the house bank and one for the starter motor. So far I haven't been able to find the starter on the GD. :p

Scott, thanks for that. Most marine supply stores have the materials. Maybe RV stores too. The ones around us are kind of sparse on parts.
 
Hi Jim,

I am going to use a four way battery switch. Battery 1 / Battery 2 / Both / None. Since we seldom camp without electric hookup, my thinking is more along the lines of "spare battery" than "bigger bank" so will usually run off one with the other kept fully charged and available if needed. I will switch back and forth between them every once in a while to keep both exercised and fully charged. As long as I don't try to charge them both together, they do not even need to be same size and same age, as they should be if hardwired into a bank.

Rob
 
I am going to gamble this go around and just install 2 T105s based on usage over the last years with KZ toy hauler. It had 4 T 105s for house bank and separate starting battery with independent charging system. We don't do much dry camping any more.
I did install one of these on my Honda Pioneer just for 2 battery set up and use of winch.
Nice part, easy install . It would be perfect for a 2 battery 12 volt system to protect generator starting.
Rob will probably make one for $ 20 or less he has know how to make one. But for me it was worth the cost.
Scott




Smart Dual Battery 140A Isolator - Auto/Boat/RV
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Smart Dual Battery 140A Isolator - Auto/Boat/RV
by JayCorp
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12V 140A smart isolator with Cut-In:13.4V, Cut-Out:12.9V
Easy 3 wire connection at the battery. No need to bypass existing alternator wiring
The smart isolator has no voltage drop. Conventional diode isolators incur a minimum of 0.6 volt drop
Compact 2.5" x 2.5" x 2" size - No large heat sink
Easy to install anywhere - Water and dust resistant
› See more product details
 
I would caution against a battery isolator if we are talking about the same thing. The steal a small part of the current and you don't get a full charge. An automatic charge relay would be a better idea or something like an Echo Charger and parallel switch is a safer bet for best battery care.
 

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