Battery Upgrade to LiFe4PO

[Diver4242]

I want more battery capacity for our 2021 2600RB travel trailer. The idea is to replace the car battery on the tongue with a LiTime 12V 230ah LiFePO4 battery (just one). I'll move that battery to the front pass through storage.

Most of the videos I see to help with the install are for a full LiFePO4 install with solar panels, etc on the RV. I don't want to do all that, I have a Jackery solar generator with four 200W panels and don't want all that bolted to the RV as I use it for other purposes. When I need it for the RV, I connect via the 30A plug. Most of the videos I see involve complex full solar installs with a wall full of blue and orange Victron components

Am I right that I can simply do this with the Victron IP22 blue smart charger and smart shunt in there with the battery? I would disconnect the breaker that charges the battery from the converter 30amp RV connection and vehicle (truck) connection. I think I remember it wasn't compatible either wiring-wise or other, so that's why the IP22 instead, and smart shunt to monitor the battery. I'm just relying on the 120V AC plug in the pass through to charge the battery through the IP22 when we're on shore power. We rarely boondock and have the solar generator and panels for that.

Is there any instruction or video to guide me through this? I'm careful to make sure all power disconnect is in place, proper grounding, etc prior to doing this kind of work. I have and rely on the docs for these products mentioned, but would like an end to end video. I'm sure others have done this? Or is it as simple as just hooking all that up?

 

[Riverbug]

The simplest method without any hassle but still useful would be to just swap the batteries and be done. A shunt is not required. If you get a LiTime with Bluetooth you could see the information straight from the battery without needing a shunt. Regarding the charger, since you rarely boondock and are not concerned about a quick recharge or 100% charge, you can actually just use the OEM charger if you want to. It will not charge quickly or to 100%, but it will still work fine. It will not top balance the cells, but so what. You're rarely going to need the full capacity anyway until you start boondocking more. We did that for our first 1.5 years while I figured out how we really wanted to travel as retired peoples. So that's the easiest method.

From there, you can add a shunt, chargers, etc., depending on what you decide you really want/need. If you do add a new charger you are correct that you would disconnect the charger side of the converter. It's not a breaker though. You'll have to pull the WFCO out and find the wires for the charger and disconnect them. However, if the converter and charger are integrated you may not be able to do that. You'll have to look and see how yours is set up. If not, there is actually no issue with having both connected. The LFP charger will charge at a higher voltage so the WFCO charger will see a voltage that satisfies it pretty quickly. But ideally, disconnecting it if you can is ideal if you decide to add a LFP charger.

 

[Diver4242]

The simplest method without any hassle but still useful would be to just swap the batteries and be done. A shunt is not required. If you get a LiTime with Bluetooth you could see the information straight from the battery without needing a shunt. Regarding the charger, since you rarely boondock and are not concerned about a quick recharge or 100% charge, you can actually just use the OEM charger if you want to. It will not charge quickly or to 100%, but it will still work fine. It will not top balance the cells, but so what. You're rarely going to need the full capacity anyway until you start boondocking more. We did that for our first 1.5 years while I figured out how we really wanted to travel as retired peoples. So that's the easiest method.

From there, you can add a shunt, chargers, etc., depending on what you decide you really want/need. If you do add a new charger you are correct that you would disconnect the charger side of the converter. It's not a breaker though. You'll have to pull the WFCO out and find the wires for the charger and disconnect them. However, if the converter and charger are integrated you may not be able to do that. You'll have to look and see how yours is set up. If not, there is actually no issue with having both connected. The LFP charger will charge at a higher voltage so the WFCO charger will see a voltage that satisfies it pretty quickly. But ideally, disconnecting it if you can is ideal if you decide to add a LFP charger.

Ok thanks. I think the particular WC converter in my model year had an issue with smart switching or something which was why I was trying to avoid using it with the lifepo4. Also some concern with wire gauge and length. I bought this stuff last year then had some health problems so just getting to it now.

 

[Riverbug]

Ok thanks. I think the particular WC converter in my model year had an issue with smart switching or something which was why I was trying to avoid using it with the lifepo4. Also some concern with wire gauge and length. I bought this stuff last year then had some health problems so just getting to it now.

Okay, if you have an auto-detect model then you would be good to go even if it doesn't always detect that you have an LFP battery. It will still charge as I outlined. But if you can get it to detect correctly on occasion then you'll be able to give a full charge every once in a while. Totally up to you of course. Just trying to save you some hassle since you're not really depending on it for boondocking. With 200+ AH available you can easily do overnight stops without hookups between destinations.

 

[huntindog]

Good advice so far.
If your present convertor quits, then upgrade it. This is not likely though. The one thing the WFCOs do well , is reliability. They do just about everything else performance wise poorly, but they just don't die.