Bearing Replacement, Need Brand Advice

[Hoopy Frood]

Most bearing problems occur shortly after servicing. If it isn't done right they destroy themselves pretty fast. if they made it to 2,500 miles, they will go 50,000 miles easy.

Definitely your opinion. Not mine though.

On Edit: I do agree that many bearing problems occur shortly after servicing, we just disagree on the definition of shortly.

 

[House On Wheels]

Hi guys,
Got a big trip (for us anyway) planned and I was going to repack the wheel bearings before we go and a mechanic friend suggested that I change out the wheel bearings while I'm at it.
Seemed like a reasonable comment to me since the trailer is 4 years old.
I have the build spec sheet for Dexter for my trailer and it calls out Dexter 031-030-02 & 031-032-02 bearings. I may change the races as well depending on their condition.

Anyway, What seemed like an easy procedure of searching for these on the web and ordering 4 each has turned into more than I was expecting. Lots of cross referencing charts, China vs USA comments, brands I'm not familiar with and so on and so on.

I should have just come here first and asked "What brand of bearing should I be hunting for?"

Thanks in advance as always for your helpful comments.

Timkens are great but I actually prefer Koyo which are Japanese and knows for their precision work. The Koyo's are actually a little bit cheaper than the Timkens and in my opinion spin even better than the Timkens. As for the grease my preference is the Lucas Marine grease which is blue in color as it is readily available almost everywhere and the drop point is 570 degree which is higher than the Lucas Red n Taky of 540 degrees.

 

[terryriddle]

Just u detest and one has to purchase Timkin bearings etc from a distributor. Online orders are China made and not USA made Timkin bearings

 

[House On Wheels]

Agree there are many Chinese knockoff Timkins bearings which is another reason why I prefer the Koyo's because there are not as many copy cats. A great place to purchase bearings from is Rodavictoria USA which has great prices, great service, and they only sell legitimate bearings.

I am not a fan of the original Dexter bearings as they are Chinese made and when you roll a Koyo and a Dexter you can tell the difference in your hand right away.

 

[huntindog]

Definitely your opinion. Not mine though.

On Edit: I do agree that many bearing problems occur shortly after servicing, we just disagree on the definition of shortly.

I have an extensive auto mechanical background . I built my first small block at 16 years of age. I have done trannys, transfer cases and complete axles , ring & pinion setups Have done lots of bearing packing jobs even crewed on a Championship Sprint car team. Since I am in AZ, I have also done quite a bit of air conditioning work.
There is nothing special about the bearings used on our trailers that requires them to be inspected as frequently as many here think.... But there are quite a few RVers that do not know how to do a bearing job correctly....At least from the posts online that show up often.

So yeah, I think my opinion on this stuff is pretty good.

 

[Boogiejack75]

This will be the 3rd bearing re-pack for me. (I always replace the seals)
I was advised by a man that I had tremendous respect for that it's a good habit to repack regularly and that a little time and money now, can save your trip and a bunch of money.
I do not judge others for how they handle their maintenance as that is personal preference.

But, Back to my original question, What brand of bearings should I be hunting down should I need them?

Thanks guys!

Go to NAPA and buy Timkens or SKF. As recommended earlier replace both cup and cone as a set.

 

[LincolnGuy]

So consensus is TIMKIN bearings. What about the grease? I was pointed to "RED n TACKY" by Lucas Products. A trailer and marine business locally in business since 1956 said it was as good as anything out there.

 

[Dangerousdan]

Timken, SKS, FAG, NSK, NTN
All good quality. We use all of these in the SHELL OIL refinery that I retired from as a Mechanical Inspector.

 

[TimtheToolMan]

So consensus is TIMKIN bearings. What about the grease? I was pointed to "RED n TACKY" by Lucas Products. A trailer and marine business locally in business since 1956 said it was as good as anything out there.

https://www.dexteraxle.com/Resources/Learning-Library/Informational/5198/proper-bearing-lubrication-type

Any on the list is good.

Mystik JT-6 Hi-Temp Grease #2 is available sooo many places including Walmart, O'Reilly Auto Parts, ...

 

[Longshhm]

If you’re going to replace (only if necessary), go with complete replacement, Timken. End of story.

 

[lineman1234]

If i listened to what others told me to do, i would still be working instead of retired going on 8 years now. I left early.................

I did alllllll, new barrings from my local napa, best in stock they had, and new double lip seals. On the barrings said made in china. They look good, feel good and tight, fit tight nice and snug on the other races already on the spindles just like they fit on the ones that came with them. I ended up getting half with the races and the other half without because thats what was in stock. And i knew i wasnt changing the races anyway, unless needed.

I have no problem posting back, if there is a problem, i dont expect a problem. If the local napa hear in farming country, sells stuff to farms that have way more use and a load than my camper, farm is pack, install, and run for quite some time, no ez lube axels , just use and work it.

So its fine for my camper.

 

[RV2600RB]

I have an extensive auto mechanical background . I built my first small block at 16 years of age. I have done trannys, transfer cases and complete axles , ring & pinion setups Have done lots of bearing packing jobs even crewed on a Championship Sprint car team. Since I am in AZ, I have also done quite a bit of air conditioning work.
There is nothing special about the bearings used on our trailers that requires them to be inspected as frequently as many here think.... But there are quite a few RVers that do not know how to do a bearing job correctly....At least from the posts online that show up often.

So yeah, I think my opinion on this stuff is pretty good.

I have similar experience as you and I agree with what you’ve said.
I might add that plain petroleum wheel bearing grease is more than sufficient. No need for fancy colored grease. Don’t use moly grease, it will turn to liquid.
Properly cleaned and packed bearings shouldn’t need servicing for a long time.
Had my fifth wheel for 7 years and never touched the bearings. I go by mileage not time.
Rich

 

[RV2600RB]

If i listened to what others told me to do, i would still be working instead of retired going on 8 years now. I left early.................

I did alllllll, new barrings from my local napa, best in stock they had, and new double lip seals. On the barrings said made in china. They look good, feel good and tight, fit tight nice and snug on the other races already on the spindles just like they fit on the ones that came with them. I ended up getting half with the races and the other half without because thats what was in stock. And i knew i wasnt changing the races anyway, unless needed.

I have no problem posting back, if there is a problem, i dont expect a problem. If the local napa hear in farming country, sells stuff to farms that have way more use and a load than my camper, farm is pack, install, and run for quite some time, no ez lube axels , just use and work it.

So its fine for my camper.

You should always replace bearings and races as a matched set. Don’t put new bearings in a used race and vice versa.
Rich

 

[Ranchertx]

I have been trying to find out what bearing and race part numbers are for my axles. They are Dexter 7,000 lb # 7658660. I emailed Grand design but no response. Any ideas guys?

 

[huntindog]

If i listened to what others told me to do, i would still be working instead of retired going on 8 years now. I left early.................

I did alllllll, new barrings from my local napa, best in stock they had, and new double lip seals. On the barrings said made in china. They look good, feel good and tight, fit tight nice and snug on the other races already on the spindles just like they fit on the ones that came with them. I ended up getting half with the races and the other half without because thats what was in stock. And i knew i wasnt changing the races anyway, unless needed.

I have no problem posting back, if there is a problem, i dont expect a problem. If the local napa hear in farming country, sells stuff to farms that have way more use and a load than my camper, farm is pack, install, and run for quite some time, no ez lube axels , just use and work it.

So its fine for my camper.

Umm, races are installed in the hub, not on the spindle. And one should ALWAYS replace bearings and races as a set.

 

[dryfly]

I have similar experience as you and I agree with what you’ve said.
I might add that plain petroleum wheel bearing grease is more than sufficient. No need for fancy colored grease. Don’t use moly grease, it will turn to liquid.
Properly cleaned and packed bearings shouldn’t need servicing for a long time.
Had my fifth wheel for 7 years and never touched the bearings. I go by mileage not time.
Rich

What do you think is a reasonable milage for repacking?

 

[traveldawg]

I have been trying to find out what bearing and race part numbers are for my axles. They are Dexter 7,000 lb # 7658660. I emailed Grand design but no response. Any ideas guys?

Call Lippert - more responsive and the one's who have the right information (you'll need the RVs VIN.

 

[traveldawg]

Timkens are great but I actually prefer Koyo which are Japanese and knows for their precision work. The Koyo's are actually a little bit cheaper than the Timkens and in my opinion spin even better than the Timkens. As for the grease my preference is the Lucas Marine grease which is blue in color as it is readily available almost everywhere and the drop point is 570 degree which is higher than the Lucas Red n Taky of 540 degrees.

I use Amalie Blue Hi Temp Grease. But I can't find the "drop point". Do you what it is? Maybe I should switch.

I made a note about the Koyo's. Thanks for that info.

 

[Hoopy Frood]

I use Amalie Blue Hi Temp Grease. But I can't find the "drop point". Do you what it is? Maybe I should switch.

I made a note about the Koyo's. Thanks for that info.

If your hub temperatures are upwards of 700°, I would imagine you'll have bigger problems than the "drop point" of the grease you're using.

 

[traveldawg]

If your hub temperatures are upwards of 700°, I would imagine you'll have bigger problems than the "drop point" of the grease you're using.

yea - thanks for that advice..... not helpful..... Was hoping House On Wheels could provide insight or someone who knows the specs. I looked at Amalie's web site but can't find the term "Drop Point". I use this grease as a friend who was a mechanic his whole career (fleet of trucks for telco) always uses it. Even had MorRyde use it (I supplied it) when IS was done. So far it has been working well (for both of us).