Best Weight Distribution Hitch Options for 22MLE with F150

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Several RVers shared their experiences with weight distribution hitches (WDH) for towing a 22MLE, especially with an F150. The original poster was dissatisfied with the Blue Ox Sway Pro (750lb bars) and considered switching to a Weigh Safe middleweight with 1000lb bars. Members recommended a range of hitches, including the Equal-i-zer E4, Husky Centerline, FastWay e2, and Eaz-Lift TR3, with many noting improved stability and sway control with higher-rated bars or different... More...

LIBBY123

Advanced Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2020
Posts
46
Location
Kansas
Quick question on what everyone is using for their Hitch with a 22MLE.
I have a F150 with the 3.5 ecoboost, tow rating is 10,500lbs.
I currently have a Blue Ox Sway Pro with 750lb bars. I am not happy with its performance, even after dialing it in a bit better. I am leaning towards the Weigh Safe middleweight with 1000lb bars.
 
I use a Husky centreline with 800-1200 bars for my 2400bh. Works great

If I had to buy another hitch I would get an equalizer E4 that I had on my older trailer
Best hitch going imo

The weigh safe is a good hitch for toy haulers where the tongue weight can vary
With a regular trailer it doesn’t have much advantage. YMMV
 
We tow with the dreaded Blue Ox Sway Pro with the 1k bars. Towed it with a 1500 Silverado for 2.5 years and the next 2.5 with a 2500HD Silverado. Can’t speak to Fords but the hitch has worked fine with both trucks. There is a noticeable reduction in the “suck/push” with the heavier TV but it wasn’t that bad with the 1500. I like it for the non friction sway control but then again, everyone has their fave.
 
Quick question on what everyone is using for their Hitch with a 22MLE.
I have a F150 with the 3.5 ecoboost, tow rating is 10,500lbs.
I currently have a Blue Ox Sway Pro with 750lb bars. I am not happy with its performance, even after dialing it in a bit better. I am leaning towards the Weigh Safe middleweight with 1000lb bars.
I have the same camper and truck/engine combo. My WDH is a FastWay e2 trunnion bars rated for 12,000 lbs. Looks a little different than the ones I see advertised now.

It gets the job done and I have not felt any sway issue that were concerning. It takes some effort to set or unset the bars. If you unbox and install the hitch yourself, you will need a special socket that cost about $80, I think. Check the online owner's manual and see if you like how it attaches.
 
The Weigh Safe middleweight with 1000 barsshould serve the OP well.

I use a Eaz-Lift TR3 with 800 lb bars (good for 1000 lbs) for our 22MLE and F350 CCSB. I have no specific dislikes with the hitch, other than the poor consumer service. It does have the ability to adjust the sway control independent of the weight distribution.

Here is a good comparison of 11 different hitches. Weigh Safe is rated way up there.

Hitch Battle
 
Thanks for the replies
I believe I am going to do the Weigh Safe. I will post results once I get it installed and have a few miles with it.
 
Quick question on what everyone is using for their Hitch with a 22MLE.
I have a F150 with the 3.5 ecoboost, tow rating is 10,500lbs.
I currently have a Blue Ox Sway Pro with 750lb bars. I am not happy with its performance, even after dialing it in a bit better. I am leaning towards the Weigh Safe middleweight with 1000lb bars.
I misspoke on the size
It would be the middle weight 8500lb model. Thanks for the correction. ✅
 
I purchased WD hitch when I purchased my trailer, towed a couple of times with them. Then towed without.

Not needed with my set up. So before you sink a ton of money in more hitches, or bars, try towing without.
 
I purchased WD hitch when I purchased my trailer, towed a couple of times with them. Then towed without.

Not needed with my set up. So before you sink a ton of money in more hitches, or bars, try towing without.
An F150 can’t tow a 22mle without a wdh

It is actually stated on the hitch
 
We have a 22MLE and now have the Equalizer 4-point. We started with a Husky WDH which we had used on our previous two trailers, and then decided to try the Andersen to avoid the bars.
Didn't feel that the Andersen offered the sway protection very well, so went to the Equalizer and couldn't be happier. A noticeable difference.....
 
Thanks for all the replies. I went with the Weigh Safe middle weight with the 12500lb bars
Weigh safe responded that I could go with the heavier bars.
The 30 mile test trip was noticeably better, both in the front to back rock on bumps and dips in the road. Little to no floating feeling with constant corrections.
I’m not saying the weigh safe is the only option that would work, but it solved my issue. I believe the Blue Ox with the tapered bars just didn’t feel right. Possibly the Blue Ox with 1000lb bars would have worked also instead of the 750 bars that I have, I’m not sure though. Either way, I’m pleased with the decision, and I appreciate all of you that offered some advice.
 
2023 F 150 2.7L eco boost. Towing a 22mle with a Eaz-Lift R3 800lb bars
Added a Curt extended shank so be able to fully open the tailgate. (tried the trailer jack rotation and still did not clear the tailgate). Trailer tire pressures at 65psi and when towing the 275/65/18 truck tires are at a minimum of 65 psi. I've rode at 80 psi and it is a bit harsh. We just CAT scaled at 20 lbs under max for my GCWR! Yes we carry too much crap and will be working on a weight reduction diet for all my gear. I have the sway adjustment on the RS dialed down pretty tight but not max, trailer brake is set at 5 gain the 10 speed transmission in the Tow/Haul mode most of the time. First couple of trips I've adjusted location of weight to keep a more even distribution and have learned to keep speeds at of under 65mph. 75 is just way too fast for this light truck. Even in the western states where 70 and even 80 limits are. I just added the RAS rear suspension units and they made for a considerably smoother experience in the ride. The front end appears to not be as light. From a relative newbie experience I think slowing down, being smart with where your gear is stowed and smooth deliberate inputs with the steering, braking and acceleration makes a considerable difference in reducing sway, porpoising and roll.
 
I used a Blue Ox Track Pro with 800lb bars when we had 22mle. It worked fine behind our Tundra with only a little porpoising. When we moved up to the 2500RL I installed airbags and that helped with porpoising.
 
Not a fan of the BO Sway Pro WDH. I used one for 3-4 season with a 31' 9000 lb TT and a Ram 3500 CC LB CTD. I had 1350 for TW so opted for the 1500 lb bars. They didn't transfer enough weight back to the front so I called BO and the tech guy said to try the 2000 lb bars. Don't need to fully crank them, just crank enough for weight transfer. Needless to say with that much weight on the tongue and a truck bed loaded too I would need to crank the bars up most of the way. That made it real nasty when releasing the chains. Even raising the tongue up to remove some stress the chains were still really tight and when they finally did release I didn't want to be near them.
I then removed the OEM chain up brackets and installed Strapteks. That made a world of difference in hitching and unhitching. Sad thing was that the TT didn't handle any different. No uncontrolled sway but it still felt a little loose back there. So that meant that the OEM brackets weren't really doing much to begin with.

BO WDH works on a progressive sway control. The more the trailer sways the more tension is on the chains. So the 1st 20-40% of movement doesn't really get controlled like a friction based WDH would where sway control is being applied instantaneously.

A guy did a video where he tested about 7 WDH's. The BO was dead last because of proposing and lack of initial sway control. After owning one I tend to agree with his assessment.

The track pro would be a better choice.
 

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