Black Tank Release Handle Stuck

rbgntx

Advanced Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2019
Messages
45
Location
Where ever we park from Texas to Oregon
We own a 2020 Reflection 303RLS. The release handle on the black tank is stuck partway out. I can't get it to move in or out. Not sure if the tank is open or not. I drained the tanks earlier today and was unable to return the handle to the normal position when I finished. Any one have any thoughts on what might be creating the problem?
 
Apparently a common problem. lube and work the handle. Hopefuly it comes free. We bought a new 23lde this last spring. On the third trip, handle was rough opening durring dump. Did not want to close. Warranty item and now I lube with dry lube every dump. Seemed to freeze up right where the inner cable goes into the shield next to the handle.
 
Apparently a common problem. lube and work the handle. Hopefuly it comes free. We bought a new 23lde this last spring. On the third trip, handle was rough opening durring dump. Did not want to close. Warranty item and now I lube with dry lube every dump. Seemed to freeze up right where the inner cable goes into the shield next to the handle.

Do you just lube the exposed metal rod (the part you can see when the valve is open) at the Nautilus panel or do you dump something like this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BGK2L0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) in the black tank?
 
We own a 2020 Reflection 303RLS. The release handle on the black tank is stuck partway out. I can't get it to move in or out. Not sure if the tank is open or not. I drained the tanks earlier today and was unable to return the handle to the normal position when I finished. Any one have any thoughts on what might be creating the problem?

If the cable will not move I don't see how you are going to be able to work lubrication into the cable assembly. If it's stuck partway out odds are the valve is partially open. You can determine this by running water down the toilet and see if it comes out the discharge pipe. It really doesn't make any difference if you can't work the valve. I doubt that product you linked to is going to help, and you are probably going to end up having to drop the underbelly and see what's going on at the valve. Maybe someone else has an easier fix.
 
The difficulty began just before we left our summer base in Oregon in October. I have been using dry lube on it and that had been working until now. I've been in contact with a repair service at our current spot in SoCal. We are supposed to leave here in ten days and head back to Texas so I hope we can get it taken care of before we hit the road. Thanks for the replies.
 
The difficulty began just before we left our summer base in Oregon in October. I have been using dry lube on it and that had been working until now. I've been in contact with a repair service at our current spot in SoCal. We are supposed to leave here in ten days and head back to Texas so I hope we can get it taken care of before we hit the road. Thanks for the replies.

I learned that lesson the hard way with a gray tank. I switched from WD40 to dry lube. Big mistake according to the tech. The water dispersing capability of WD40 makes the difference. Three weeks later I had a gray tank cable stuck partially open at Yellowstone and bent the rod trying to get it closed (make sure your cables are securely fastened to the Nautilus backing plate - this one was loose which caused me to push the rod at an angle and bend it). I figured I'd have to drop the coroplast and replace the cable. Tech was able to get it working by rotating the handle and turning the aluminum rod while liberally soaking the aluminum rod with WD40. Eventually he was able to push it in just a small amount and pull it back. Took him an hour pushing it in and out in small increments but he was able to get it working and even straighten the bend out of the rod. As of winterizing, was functional again two months later. But they all got good doses of WD40 every time they were pulled since.
 
A better quality cable would make a world of deference. Maybe something with a seal so when you go through somewhere like Oregon where it rains a bunch the parts underneath don't get wet and corrode. I know the cheap pot metal used on the cables sure starts rusting or oxidizing quickly.
 
And yes, I just lube the exposed section of the cable. I also work it back and forth while doing so while I am dumping.
 
And yes, I just lube the exposed section of the cable. I also work it back and forth while doing so while I am dumping.

I really stunned by the amount of rust that comes out every time I lube the cables - seems never-ending.
 
Move up to Electric

The difficulty began just before we left our summer base in Oregon in October. I have been using dry lube on it and that had been working until now. I've been in contact with a repair service at our current spot in SoCal. We are supposed to leave here in ten days and head back to Texas so I hope we can get it taken care of before we hit the road. Thanks for the replies.

I bought a used Cardinal 5'er, and had issues getting the black water to close completely. The cable systems are horrible. I upgraded all three of my tanks to electric valves, as well as added an emergency shutoff valve at the primary connection point. Also went to the LCI Wastemaster system and love it.

Jim
 
I have a repair service coming out on Friday. In the meantime I think I'll try what you described about rotating the handle while spraying the WD-40.

Good luck. Make sure the nut on holding the handle is tight and don't turn too much. Goal is just to see if you can get some WD-40 working into the space between the aluminum shaft and steel sleeve. Then pushing straight in or pulling straight out even 1/16" to start, spray again and repeat. It took close to an hour for the tech to complete the process but it seems to have worked.
 
I will implement some of this advice on my cables. Thanks everyone!

I have learned that the straightness of the push/pull rod is extremely important. It doesn’t take much of a push to put one out of straight.

I could have sworn I had one perfectly straight and it would not budge. I tweaked it some more, and it ‘slid in like it never had a problem’.

Straighten and straighten some more. Then once you get it there, lube it up.

In applications where WD40 is good.
I’ve found that ‘Kroil’ is better.
 
From ag applications I know how difficult it can be to get lubrication into a long cable. I saw information on a pressurized cable lubricator developed by Russell Duckwall in a different thread. After watching the video I was impressed with the simplicity of it, he has come up with a great idea/procedure. I was impressed enough that I bought one. I usually try to make stuff like this myself but he has the ability to cut the proper threads into the fittings plus it really is ingenious so I bought from him. Below is a link to his video of the cable lubricator:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hKtdDHg7v4
 
My gray tank is full and I am unable to budge the handle to empty. This sounds like a common problem. Was there ever any recall by Grand Design related to this issue? I also can't lub anything if the handle won't move.
 
Had the same handle/cable unable to move with 3 month old Imagine25 black dump valve fortunately it was covered under warranty. Am planning to use WD 40 on a regular basis
I couldn't winterize the black tank flush system ( connection on the outside of the trailer) wouldn't accept anitfreeze from a small hand operated pump connected to a jug of antifreeze solution.
Am i in for a surprise this spring??? Being a leak or such??? Owners manual doesn;t say a word about winterizing the flush.
 

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