Blue Ox Spring Bar Size

[brilab]

Hi everyone,
First time poster looking for some advice. I've got a 2021 Imagine XLS 23BHE, had it for about 9 months now. I'm pulling with an F-150 (3.5 Eco, 10 speed trx) paired with a Blue Ox Sway Pro. My question is related to the WDH and the size of the spring bars the dealer set me up with. The bars that came with my hitch are the 750# bars. I purchased a tongue weight scale to get an accurate tongue weight, and our semi-dry weight came in at just over 700#'s. I say semi-dry, because it included two almost full propane bottles and all of our gear that stays in the storage compartment, but not the rest of the food and other items we would typically load into the camper on a trip. All tanks were empty. In my mind, full tanks and a full compliment of provisions puts me well over 750#'s at the hitch.

Based on the scale weight, I'm guessing it would be wise to upgrade to the 1000# bars, but I'm looking for feedback. Sorry if this question has been asked before - I did search the forums but I didn't find anything I'd consider to be a specific answer.

Thanks for any help/feedback!

 

[NB Canada]

I would upgrade

 

[Ynot4me2]

First off, welcome to the group.
Your are at the max of those bars but are you experiencing any towing issues? If not then I'd keep them.

 

[Capt Bob]

Similar setup with a Blue Ox Pro. We use the 1000 pounders on our rig and the ride is not bad at all. Weight transfer works well also.

 

[TimtheToolMan]

Take camper to CAT scale as you would commonly use it and adjust bars so that 100% of truck front wheel weight is returned vs camper not attached. This will improve towing in multiple ways.

You can approximate this by measuring front fender height before attaching camper and adjusting WDH until the height is returned to same spot with camper attached. Use this method to start with if easier that going to CAT to see if bars will fully transfer weight back to front wheels.

I went from #1000 to #1500 Blue Ox bars on F-350 and found towing improved even though I did not have to make the change with an 8000 lb gross TT. Main difference was less steering wheel correction but either way took one hand/two fingers to control truck. Truck is so much more relaxing to drive.

I was told by RV dealer and Blue Ox factory the #1500 bars would make ride stiffer so sold me the #1000 . I feel no difference in ride stiffness between the two bars.

I would expect the ride difference for F-150 with proper bars will be quite significant (less float feeling and porpoising, possibly less sway) but others would know for sure who have tried this (#1000 vs #1500) with F-150. I would upgrade to 1000 under OP conditions.

I purchased the used #1500 bars on ebay and no longer use the #1000 .

 

[brilab]

Thanks for the replies. I wouldn't say I'm having any major issues, just trying to reconcile the numbers with the ratings.

 

[Redapple63]

Hi everyone,
First time poster looking for some advice. I've got a 2021 Imagine XLS 23BHE, had it for about 9 months now. I'm pulling with an F-150 (3.5 Eco, 10 speed trx) paired with a Blue Ox Sway Pro. My question is related to the WDH and the size of the spring bars the dealer set me up with. The bars that came with my hitch are the 750# bars. I purchased a tongue weight scale to get an accurate tongue weight, and our semi-dry weight came in at just over 700#'s. I say semi-dry, because it included two almost full propane bottles and all of our gear that stays in the storage compartment, but not the rest of the food and other items we would typically load into the camper on a trip. All tanks were empty. In my mind, full tanks and a full compliment of provisions puts me well over 750#'s at the hitch.

Based on the scale weight, I'm guessing it would be wise to upgrade to the 1000# bars, but I'm looking for feedback. Sorry if this question has been asked before - I did search the forums but I didn't find anything I'd consider to be a specific answer.

Thanks for any help/feedback!

Hi Brilab,

Welcome to the forum!

Regarding the hitch, I agree with Ynot4me2, if you are not having issues all good. However, there are lots of variables that come into play when towing. My starting point has always been 10-15% of rig GVWR. 12% of 7k should theoretically be about 840 lbs. TW.

Since you already have both, I also agree that you should weigh it and see where you are actually at weight wise. Then the decision becomes an easy one.

Without any real data, just my gut feel, I agree with NB and I think you will end up going bigger.

Weigh it and see where you are.

Bill

 

[brilab]

Take camper to CAT scale as you would commonly use it and adjust bars so that 100% of truck front wheel weight is returned vs camper not attached. This will improve towing in multiple ways.

You can approximate this by measuring front fender height before attaching camper and adjusting WDH until the height is returned to same spot with camper attached. Use this method to start with if easier that going to CAT to see if bars will fully transfer weight back to front wheels.

I went from #1000 to [URL=https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1500]#1500 [/URL] Blue Ox bars on F-350 and found towing improved even though I did not have to make the change with an 8000 lb gross TT. Main difference was less steering wheel correction but either way took one hand/two fingers to control truck. Truck is so much more relaxing to drive.

I was told by RV dealer and Blue Ox factory the [URL=https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1500]#1500 [/URL] bars would make ride stiffer so sold me the #1000 . I feel no difference in ride stiffness between the two bars.

I would expect the ride difference for F-150 with proper bars will be quite significant (less float feeling and porpoising, possibly less sway) but others would know for sure who have tried this (#1000 vs #1500 ) with F-150. I would upgrade to 1000 under OP conditions.

I purchased the used [URL=https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1500]#1500 [/URL] bars on ebay and no longer use the #1000 .

Yeah, I've not been on a scale yet, but I've taken measurements and with the 750# bars I'm within about 2"-2.5" of stock ride height in the rear on the 9th chain link. I think I'm losing (rather gaining) a hair over 1" in the front, but I can't remember exactly. Like I said though, that's with an "empty" camper and no cargo/passengers in the truck. One thing I'll say is that the sway control with these bars leaves a lot to be desired. I get blown around by passing traffic, which is not fun. I've made some upgrades to the camper suspension, but the rear end of the truck still feels a bit soft over bumps and rougher roads. It sounds like it wouldn't hurt to try the 1000# bars and see where I end up.

 

[TimtheToolMan]

Yeah, I've not been on a scale yet, but I've taken measurements and with the 750# bars I'm within about 2"-2.5" of stock ride height in the rear on the 9th chain link. I think I'm losing (rather gaining) a hair over 1" in the front, but I can't remember exactly. Like I said though, that's with an "empty" camper and no cargo/passengers in the truck. One thing I'll say is that the sway control with these bars leaves a lot to be desired. I get blown around by passing traffic, which is not fun. I've made some upgrades to the camper suspension, but the rear end of the truck still feels a bit soft over bumps and rougher roads. It sounds like it wouldn't hurt to try the 1000# bars and see where I end up.

Run some searches on this forum to find very useful information related to getting blown around by passing traffic and Blue Ox setup. Here is one: https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/sho...t-advice-trouble-shooting?p=325854#post325854

 

[RicknBobbie]

Before you buy new spring bars, try going higher on the chain.

I too had a bad problem with sway, so I called Blue Ox; according to them, you can go as high as 11 links on the chain. I started at 9 links, and each time I went up to the next link, the towing improved. Ultimately, I chose to upgrade to the next level spring bars which made a huge difference. Not only did this improve the ride, but it dropped my tongue weight and shifted more to the front axle.

I also replaced the truck's factory bump stops with Sumo compression bump stop. This reduced the "porpoise" effect when going over bumps, expansion stops, etc.

 

[Capt Bob]

Well, I'll jump in here though we are pulling a different trailer model with a 1/2 ton and a Blue Ox hitch.

As stated earlier we use the 1000lb bars. we also use the Straptek system rather than the chains. I have those ratcheted up to the "3 dot" indicator on the strap. This returns all but 60 lbs (last CAT Scale reading) to the to the front axle, bringing it very close to the truck front axle loading when just weighing the truck without the trailer. Setting up a Blue Ox hitch takes some work to dial in correctly. I also have air bags on my 1500. They were in place long before I purchased the 22MLE. They were there to compensate for sag I had on the job site. Turns out they help a lot on the RIDE when towing. I do not use them for weight distribution.

I would guess the 750# are too small for your tow.

PS... The Straptek system to replace the chains turned out to be a very pleasant surprise. Install and removal of the bars is very easy with the trailer hitched and in any position.

 

[brilab]

Just an update -

10th link on the 1000# bars (upgraded from the 750#) and turning off the truck's sway control seems to have done the trick. Hitting interstate speeds with nowhere near the amount of movement I had before.

 

[TimtheToolMan]

Just an update -

10th link on the 1000# bars (upgraded from the 750#) and turning off the truck's sway control seems to have done the trick. Hitting interstate speeds with nowhere near the amount of movement I had before.

It is so good to hear about your improvement! Thanks for the update.