Bottle Jack

So, it’s ok for the wheel/axle/u-bolts/springs etc. to get the crap beat out of them hauling down some of our wonderful rough roads, but the static weight on one wheel can’t be supported from under the axle between the u-bolts with a proper saddle on the bottle jack? Sorry, I don’t buy that.

What I do buy is that placing a bottle jack under an axle well inboard of the u-bolts would be a definite no-no. Maybe close to the u-bolts is ok, as long as a proper saddle is used. Consider the centerline of the wheel is supporting the same dead load (as well is the much more extreme dynamic load) well outside of the spring/u-bolt centerline, so the axle load is cantilevered quite a bit between these 2 centerlines. If the axle tube is that wimpy, it would bend on the first little bump in the road.

Placing a bottle jack anywhere under an axle tube without a proper saddle distributing the load could deform the axle tube.
 
I would never try to lift the frame with a single bottle jack, too much of a chance of stressing things. I believe most builders recommend against such a practice. One bottle jack will work to lift a single tire, to lift the frame would take at least two properly placed.

Agree completely with this comment. A single point on the frame ahead of the front or behind the rear shackle would place a significant amount of stress (the entire weight of that side of the trailer) on a single point of the frame, vs the 4 distributed points of the 4 shackle mounts (actually 3) when the trailer is sitting on the wheels (assuming a dbbl axle trailer).

Also, because of the height and narrowness of the frame rail, I would not get under a trailer jacked in this way. Agree should be 2 jacks, one fore and one aft. Even then best make sure the blocking is solid and the bottle jacks are well centered on the frame rail.

For me, a simple jack point under the axle and between the u-bolts with a proper radius saddle is much safer. Also, I place a proper radius jack stand just inboard of the inside u-bolt as a safety back-up in case the jack fails. Then I feel safe pulling a wheel and hub for maint work.
 
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Here is my method. And I do this to not only fix a flat (last year) but also to take the wheels off one at at time to grease the bearings.

With the RV hooked up to TV. Two axles. On one side I move forward or backward the good tire on a 3" leveling blocks. On the axle with the tire to be removed I use an 8 ton bottle jack under a home made wooden/plywood curved saddle placed between the hangers. I lift the axle and voila. I few strokes of on the jack handle is all that is needed. Note: When removing the wheels for greasing the bearings I also support the frame using two jack stands placed before and after both axles for safety.
 
Trailer-Aid vs Jack

Has anyone used Trailer-Aid instead of a Jack? I used one recently while checking bearings on the 2022 301 RLS. The only issue I had in the driveway was it does not lift the trailer high enough, I places a 2x8 under the Tailer-Aid and it worked perfectly. IMG_1581.jpg
 
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It takes quite a bit of lifting height, so you need blocking to get the job done. Your GVWR is about 6 ton, and you are unlikely to need to lift half of that to change a tire while the trailer is hitched and two wheels are still on the ground. A 3-ton jack would do, but a 6-ton will be easier to use. You get into pretty big jacks when you get into higher capacity.

The only manufacturer recommended way to lift is by the frame. With a saddle and some care, some people lift by the axle at the U-bolts.

I use this with a piece of 2X stock slightly longer than the aide device; Amazon.com: Trailer Aid Camco Plus' Tandem Tire Changing Ramp with 5.5-Inch Lift, Black : Automotive
It works as good as most anything and it (to me) has paid for itself in two emergent situations.
 
Has anyone used Trailer-Aid instead of a Jack? I used one recently while checking bearings on the 2022 301 RLS. The only issue I had in the driveway was it does not lift the trailer high enough, I places a 2x8 under the Tailer-Aid and it worked perfectly.View attachment 50550

Absolutely perfect . . . .the 2x8 (IMO) should be about a foot longer than the Tailer-Aide to allow for a ramp type of experience.
 
I also use the trailer-aid, with a 2x8 bolted to the bottom of it. 2x8 was cut slightly longer than the trailer-aid footprint to give it a little more stability. Works great with our 2020 303RLS.
 
Has anyone used Trailer-Aid instead of a Jack? I used one recently while checking bearings on the 2022 301 RLS. The only issue I had in the driveway was it does not lift the trailer high enough, I places a 2x8 under the Tailer-Aid and it worked perfectly.View attachment 50550

Does the rear leveler interfere with using the trailer aid when changing the forward tire? We have a trailer aid we used with our old travel trailer, but we weren’t sure if it would work with our new Reflection because the leveler hangs so low.
 
The rear Jack does make it a little tight, but as long as the 2x8 is long enough to to get the tire up before the Trailer-aid it will work. At least it did on my 303 RLS
 
I have a 2021 Grand Design Reflection 303 RLS and put MORryde Independent Suspension with hydraulic/electric brakes. I am trying to find how to raise my 5th wheel to change a tire. I can't seem to find anyone who will suggest a bottle jack and tonnage to lift the fifth wheel. Can you help?

...a first timer...

flyfisher52

I just watched a video by "Changing Lanes" were Chad does all the hub, wheel bearing and brake maintenance on his 20k lb fifth wheel. He also has the MORyde IS on his three axle Momentum. He pointed out the jack he has and how he raised the tires for work. Might be worth watching for you.
 
I can totally understand the dilemma of figuring out how to safely lift the 5th wheel to change a tire. I’ve had similar concerns when I was a first-timer with my own RV. I ended up using a heavy-duty bottle jack, and I went with a 12-ton capacity to be on the safe side, as it provides plenty of lift for the job.
 
I carry a 20 ton, it’s heavy, and have changed a flat on the road with little effort. I know its over kill. Harbor Freight has a big selection.
 
I just pulled all the tires off to do welding on the frame, 4 spots 2 on each side.
As im set up for a couple months, the jacks are down and camper leveled.
The jacks i have with me are a 6 ton and a 2 ton bottle jack, and 2 jack stands. One axle gets jacked up, put jack stand under it, move jack, jack up other axel block with wood but leave jack as well. Same on other side. Works fine, no overkill needed.
My campers axels are 4,400lbs. Campers gvwr 9,660lbs.
 

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