Brakes grab and release for no reason

[Iluvmyfly1984]

Hey, my name is Tony and I have a 2022 solitude. Im on my first big trip with this rig and I have a weird thing happening. Every hundred or so miles the trailer brakes grab hard and release while under power (not braking). There is no rhyme or reason to when or why. Slow, fast, hill, flat, humid, dry, hot, cold, nothing I can pick out from an outside factor. As we drive a longer day >300 miles it starts happening more. If I unplug the breakaway and the 7 pin at say a gas stop it goes back to every 100 miles or so. It hasn't caused any heat issues, brakes still look good, it's just really unsettling in the truck. To reiterate it's fast, like if you grabbed the gain control in your truck as fast as you could and released it. It also feels much harder than I have the gain control set under normal braking. Truck is a 2019 ram 3500drw with 33k.

Moral of the story anyone else been through this or have an idea where to start? Kinda scratching my head on where to jump in first.

 

[jkwilson]

My first thought is a bad breakaway switch. I’ve had them go bad before.

 

[Skilletface]

Tony, also follow the two black connecting wires leading from the breakaway to there termination point, checking the wire insulation and secure wire nuts. If all is good then I would replace the breakaway switch.

 

[BrokeDown]

My 22 Momentum was not acting right. It was so bad that it wore flat spots into my front tires. They replaced the hydraulic control unit and the tires. It's been fine ever since.

B

 

[Hoopy Frood]

My 22 Momentum was not acting right. It was so bad that it wore flat spots into my front tires. They replaced the hydraulic unit and the tires. It's been fine ever since.

B

Disc brakes?

 

[Riverbug]

Not sure what type of brakes you have. I have drum brakes and mine would grab and fully release as I was on the brake pedal slowing to a stop. Turned out to be a wire inside the drum that had been pinched behind the brake mechanism and shorted against the backing plate. As you check wiring for your breakaway switch and everything else, maybe check inside the brake drum as well - if you have that type of system.

 

[BrokeDown]

Disc brakes?

Yes, disc brakes.

 

[Soundsailor]

Could it be a controller issue?

 

[TimtheToolMan]

Could also be the 7-pin connector plug. I had a random issue for a couple of years and replaced RV plug with a Pollack, which has much more reliable connection points. It is a popular upgrade with Airstreams (same problems and symptoms at OP) ...I own a Ford and display would give various error messages.

Before changing plug, I changed the socket on truck and it did not help. Also tried cleaning and straightening plug springs, which might appear to work for a while, only to return to the same problems with sudden hard braking. It is a tire killer...

After replacement, I have had no issues for over 3,000 miles.

Pollack

 

[Iluvmyfly1984]

Thank you all for the responses. Tried replacing the 7 pin first because when we unplug it we are getting longer stretches of driving before it was acting up. That didnt work. Going to replace the breakaway next but im starting the think it's the controller in the truck.

 

[TimtheToolMan]

@Iluvmyfly1984

One review on above linked Pollack plug stated: " Must Have for RAM Truck Owners! I own a modern RAM Turbo Diesel truck, and the connector that comes from the factory is a Pollak connector. A lot of trailer connectors are the double blade style. The double blade style does not work (RAM has a publication on it) on these newer RAM trucks because they don't fit the connector as well and is prone to backing out causing intermittent lights and potentially no electric brakes. I swapped mine and it fits my truck"​

This review mentions backing out, which is not the problem you stated, so may or may not be applicable. Added: You did not mention warnings from controller...

 

[traveldawg]

After confirming ALL the connections are tight on the trailer and the truck and being very sure there was no corrosion on any connection (from the wiring under the back of the truck to the brake pump actuator), and after getting under the RV and checking that all brake components are bolted tight (like caliper mounting bolts, etc.) I would.... run a wire from the brake signal wire at the brake actuator in the RV to a light in the cab of the truck such that if that actuator pump is told to apply brakes the light would light.

I now it sounds silly and maybe a bit Rube Goldberg, but how else will you know if the pump gets a braking signal or not?

And if that light came on then I would rewire the light to the 7 pin brake wire on the truck and monitor again. The would isolate if the issue is from the truck or between the truck and the camper.

I had a caliper come off once because someone failed to put locktite on the bolts. So - anything is possible.

 

[Riverbug]

I now it sounds silly and maybe a bit Rube Goldberg, but how else will you know if the pump gets a braking signal or not?

Had to look that reference up...

 

[Steven@147]

Hey, my name is Tony and I have a 2022 solitude. Im on my first big trip with this rig and I have a weird thing happening. Every hundred or so miles the trailer brakes grab hard and release while under power (not braking). There is no rhyme or reason to when or why. Slow, fast, hill, flat, humid, dry, hot, cold, nothing I can pick out from an outside factor. As we drive a longer day >300 miles it starts happening more. If I unplug the breakaway and the 7 pin at say a gas stop it goes back to every 100 miles or so. It hasn't caused any heat issues, brakes still look good, it's just really unsettling in the truck. To reiterate it's fast, like if you grabbed the gain control in your truck as fast as you could and released it. It also feels much harder than I have the gain control set under normal braking. Truck is a 2019 ram 3500drw with 33k.

Moral of the story anyone else been through this or have an idea where to start? Kinda scratching my head on where to jump in first.

For the OP of the thread, Still having problems with your brakes? Does your Solitude have its original drum brakes? If so you may want to check the brake ABS system on your Solitude. Maybe its malfunctioning.

If the brakes have been changed out to disc brakes, forget what I said, it doesn't have the drum brake ABS system any more.

 

[Iluvmyfly1984]

For the OP of the thread, Still having problems with your brakes? Does your Solitude have its original drum brakes? If so you may want to check the brake ABS system on your Solitude. Maybe its malfunctioning.

If the brakes have been changed out to disc brakes, forget what I said, it doesn't have the drum brake ABS system any more.

I did change them out before the last trip I went on. The correct ABS Calibers were not going to get here in time (and were a lot more expensive) so I went with the standard calibers. Called Grand design and they said disconnecting the ABS sensors and zip tying up the sensors would not effect normal braking (for the GD attorney that may be listening they didn't expressly say that but said it wouldn't cause failure to the braking system which was what I was asking).

Believe me, its crossed my mind that by disconnecting them there is a short somewhere but not sure after looking at the GD ABS sensor system, I'm just not sure how that would be possible. My ABS system is a bushing that prevents the drum from locking by rubbing on teeth on the back of the drum. Is that like yours too?

 

[traveldawg]

I did change them out before the last trip I went on. The correct ABS Calibers were not going to get here in time (and were a lot more expensive) so I went with the standard calibers. Called Grand design and they said disconnecting the ABS sensors and zip tying up the sensors would not effect normal braking (for the GD attorney that may be listening they didn't expressly say that but said it wouldn't cause failure to the braking system which was what I was asking).

Believe me, its crossed my mind that by disconnecting them there is a short somewhere but not sure after looking at the GD ABS sensor system, I'm just not sure how that would be possible. My ABS system is a bushing that prevents the drum from locking by rubbing on teeth on the back of the drum. Is that like yours too?

Since the sensors are no use, why not just disconnect whatever is left of the system.

Kind of hard to guess what would happen knowing the system has been partially disabled.

What ever connection there is from ABS to the brake pump probably ought to be disabled.

 

[Iluvmyfly1984]

Good idea, think im going there next. Thank you and I'll report back with the findings

 

[Canadian Clipper]

Hi Tony,
Just found this string tonight. We are also on a trip (Florida to Colorado). This is our second day of 30 and we have the same issue!
Have had the 2024 Reflection 150 280BN for over a year and have had no issues. In preparation for this trip I decided to repack the wheel bearings. Discovered serious brake problems (after only 8000 miles) so replaced all the brake assemblies with Lippert parts. The fifth wheel was supplied with the ABS system but I was not convinced that it would do what it was supposed to when it was supposed to so never added it to my Compass Connect app.
Because of this and because the local trailer shop had them in stock I used the non ABS self adjusting units.
I zip tied the Hall sensors to the axles to keep them safe in case I want to use them in the future.
New bearings and seals and all back together fine.
Now suddenly I get what feels like a full level 10 blast for about 1/2 second and then it quits. Like you, l get the same jolt if the gain is set at 2 or 10.
I have tried to isolate the conditions (hills, accel, decel, etc) to no avail.
Mine happens more frequently than you report, starting after only 50 miles. Like you, it also gets more frequent later in the trip.
As mentioned earlier in the string, there is no reason to believe that the ABS can cause the brakes to activate (when their role is to do the opposite) but tonight I dropped the belly cover and unplugged the Hall sensors from the wires that lead to the control module. Maybe that will be the answer. I will let you know tomorrow.
Nice piece of info about unplugging the 7pin. I will try that too.

 

[TimtheToolMan]

Thank you all for the responses. Tried replacing the 7 pin first because when we unplug it we are getting longer stretches of driving before it was acting up. That didnt work. Going to replace the breakaway next but im starting the think it's the controller in the truck.

I assume that you are saying that you unplugged 7 pin and then plugged it back in before you drove. Just confirming that I correctly understand.

When mine was failing, at one point brakes stayed while I was driving slowly and I was able to stop and wiggle plug and brakes then came off, so I was sure it was the 7 pin connection.

 

[traveldawg]

@Iluvmyfly1984

One review on above linked Pollack plug stated: " Must Have for RAM Truck Owners! I own a modern RAM Turbo Diesel truck, and the connector that comes from the factory is a Pollak connector. A lot of trailer connectors are the double blade style. The double blade style does not work (RAM has a publication on it) on these newer RAM trucks because they don't fit the connector as well and is prone to backing out causing intermittent lights and potentially no electric brakes. I swapped mine and it fits my truck"​

This review mentions backing out, which is not the problem you stated, so may or may not be applicable. Added: You did not mention warnings from controller...

Just noticed this mention of the Pollack plug. So I thought I'd throw this out there in support of that plug type.

A friend of mine had pretty consistent false brake messages in his '22 F-350. He finally changed the plug out to a Pollack type and has no more issues.