Break away system

madmedic8526

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2024
Posts
11
I just bought a new to me 2022 Grand Design Transcend from Daytona Beach (I live outside of St. Louis, MO). I had it hauled to my house by a hotshot service (just arrived a couple of hours ago). When I hooked it up to my truck to move it, it sounded as if the trailer brakes were dragging. After some investigation, I discovered that the break away pin was missing. Surely it didn't get pulled 1,000 miles without it right? (I would think I would have smelled something burning or it would have caught fire en route). The only thing I can think of is the driver had it attached to his truck when he left. I have already ordered a new pin and controller.

I really don't know much about the break away systems. I've pulled several trailers in my life (never a travel trailer) but I've never had an issue with the break away systems as they've always been intact.

Also, would the missing pin cause my truck to read "trailer wiring fault" on the dash. It's dark out now. I'll do some more investigating tomorrow. I guess a brake inspection would be a good thing to do as well.

Any suggestions on what to look at/inspect given this scenario?

Thanks all
 
You are probably right about the driver forgetting to disconnect it when he got there. One thing that you need to do is disconnect the battery. The battery disconnect won’t kill power to the brakes.

I did a video a while back that shows how that switch/circuit works. It’s actually pretty simple. Link to the video below.

 
If you have a newer truck, the pulled pin will cause the truck to show a fault. When I test mine, if connected to the truck, it does. If you noticed it within a short time, and disabled it, you should be fine. I would jack the trailer up and spin the tire and see how it spins. Sounds like he forgot to disconnect the cable and drove off, if it was on during his drive, your tires would be shot.
 
Breakaway switch test is part of my de-winterizing process. Had one go bad and only found it when I was testing the brakes.
 
Thanks for the replies!
Sounds like he forgot to disconnect the cable and drove off, if it was on during his drive, your tires would be shot.

You would think but I was able to move it without much gas pedal the short distance in front of my house. The only thing that clued me in was the sound of the brakes dragging (sounded like metal on metal so I’m afraid ends I’m going to find when I pull the drum off). Tires seem to be fine though. In any case, I’m going to lift some tires off the ground here shortly.
 
On another note, I carry and extra pin with me just in case some yahoo decides to take mine while traveling. I don’t want to be stranded just because of that.
 
You are probably right about the driver forgetting to disconnect it when he got there. One thing that you need to do is disconnect the battery. The battery disconnect won’t kill power to the brakes.

I did a video a while back that shows how that switch/circuit works. It’s actually pretty simple. Link to the video below.

Great video. Will the brakes be applied if the pin is missing from the break away switch without the house battery connected?
 
Great video. Will the brakes be applied if the pin is missing from the break away switch without the house battery connected?
Just answered my own question. I just moved the trailer a short distance without the 7 pin plugged in to the truck. No more brake noise. Now I’m even more afraid of what I’ll find after pulling the drum considering how easily it moved with everything plugged in and the brakes “locked” from the missing break away pin 😬
 
Just answered my own question. I just moved the trailer a short distance without the 7 pin plugged in to the truck. No more brake noise. Now I’m even more afraid of what I’ll find after pulling the drum considering how easily it moved with everything plugged in and the brakes “locked” from the missing break away pin 😬
It's entirely possible you're not hearing anything now because the battery has been drained enough that it no longer is activating the brakes.
 
It's entirely possible you're not hearing anything now because the battery has been drained enough that it no longer is activating the brakes.
Forgot to mention that I also pulled the battery to confirm my suspicions. I did charge the battery overnight as it was dead enough that it wouldn't operate the jack last night. My only hope at this point is that the battery was dead during transport and the hotshot driver either disconnect his brake controller or it doesn't work. If that's the case, hopefully the brake wiring wasn't damaged from overheating.
 
Update:

The brakes were cooked. I changed everything on all 4 wheels; Backer plates, shoes, bearings, and drums. Now I need to figure out if the wiring is still intact. I pulled the brake away pin after reinstalling the battery and didn’t seem to have power to anything as far as brakes go. I’ll replace the break away switch when I get home from work Friday. It seems all of the wiring is tucked into the underbelly. I sure would like to lay eyes on wires in case of overheating.

Has anyone removed their underbelly insulation? How much of a pain is it to reinstall/reseal?

Does anyone have a wiring schematic for the brake system handy? I’m sure I can find something on the webs but it may save me a few minutes if someone had some info at their fingertips.
 
Update:

The brakes were cooked. I changed everything on all 4 wheels; Backer plates, shoes, bearings, and drums. Now I need to figure out if the wiring is still intact. I pulled the brake away pin after reinstalling the battery and didn’t seem to have power to anything as far as brakes go. I’ll replace the break away switch when I get home from work Friday. It seems all of the wiring is tucked into the underbelly. I sure would like to lay eyes on wires in case of overheating.

Has anyone removed their underbelly insulation? How much of a pain is it to reinstall/reseal?

Does anyone have a wiring schematic for the brake system handy? I’m sure I can find something on the webs but it may save me a few minutes if someone had some info at their fingertips.
Wow, I think I’d try and get some relief from the hotshot company, obviously the brakes were engaged for some time.
 
Have you physically checked to see if voltage is getting to the brakes?
I’ve only checked for voltage with the break away switch activated. I didn’t get any reading on my multimeter and did not hear the magnet engage when touch the wires together. That being said, I wouldn’t consider myself proficient with a multimeter. I’m planning on hooking the 7 pin plug up to my truck and having my wife operate the brake pedal while I check for voltage and/or magnet reaction when I get home on Friday. I’m also planning to install a new breakaway switch in case that got fried through this ordeal.
Wow, I think I’d try and get some relief from the hotshot company, obviously the brakes were engaged for some time.
I am planning on calling the hotshot company and see if we can work something out. I’m not holding my breath though. Saving grace is that I got the camper at such a good price I’m still ahead in the deal even with all of these fixes. And I’m learning a lot about the these brakes work, so that’s a plus!
 
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I always thought hotshots were forest fire fighters.
That is correct. The term hotshot as it relates fire firefighters refers to specialized firefighting personnel trained specifically for the task of fighting wildfires.

In terms of trucking and logistics, a hotshot driver specializes in typically smaller loads that will not fill a semi trailer and/or requires time sensitive deliveries. In most cases hotshot drivers are independent contractors utilizing their own medium duty vehicles to transport loads on a flatbed or enclosed trailer, depending on load requirements. In my case, an independent contractor utilized their vehicle to transport a travel trailer to my home.
 
Well, it’s been a long several days but a few days ago I got the brakes all figured out. The break away switch was fried, which was why I wasn’t getting any voltage to the brakes. I wired in a new switch and had 13 volts at each wheel after it was all wired up.

I drove it to my sister’s house since she has a bit of land that I could open it up and get to cleaning it up. Brakes seemed to work well on that trip. After roughly 30 man hours, it’s all cleaned up and ready to stay in. I have a couple of small things to repair, loose/missing screws on drawers and doors from road travel I suspect.

My wife and I are taking it on a 4 night stay at a campground near us tomorrow.

Thank you everyone for the conversation and input. It helped a ton with diagnosis and what direction to go.

The next question, do I need to upgrade to a 3/4 ton or will my half ton be sufficient for the 550 mile trip we have planned in June? I suppose my trip tomorrow will help me make that decision.
 
Impossible to say without knowing the particulars of the truck and camper. As you said, your short trip should tell. My suggestion is to tow with and without the WDH. Then decide.
 
Well, it’s been a long several days but a few days ago I got the brakes all figured out. The break away switch was fried, which was why I wasn’t getting any voltage to the brakes. I wired in a new switch and had 13 volts at each wheel after it was all wired up.

I drove it to my sister’s house since she has a bit of land that I could open it up and get to cleaning it up. Brakes seemed to work well on that trip. After roughly 30 man hours, it’s all cleaned up and ready to stay in. I have a couple of small things to repair, loose/missing screws on drawers and doors from road travel I suspect.

My wife and I are taking it on a 4 night stay at a campground near us tomorrow.

Thank you everyone for the conversation and input. It helped a ton with diagnosis and what direction to go.

The next question, do I need to upgrade to a 3/4 ton or will my half ton be sufficient for the 550 mile trip we have planned in June? I suppose my trip tomorrow will help me make that decision.
Glad you got it all figured out and fixed up... the video that Jomani made & posted has good information in it. What it fails to tell you is not to leave your breakaway switch out for too long with your battery hooked up and allowing full voltage and current draw through the brake system wiring. In the event the trailer becomes disconnected from the tow vehicle is the only time you want full power to the brakes for as long as it takes to stop the runaway RV.
At that point burning up any brake components is the last thing to worry about.

I'll give you an example I had with a previous TT 10 years or more ago. My steel brakeaway cable had drug on the ground and got slightly frayed causing me to poke my finger on a strand of wire each time I hooked or unhooked up the TT. I got tired of poking my finger and decided to fix the frayed cable by shortening it at the end closest to my truck...it was plenty long enough to cut it and make a new loop on it. I pulled out the plunger and took the cable to my workbench in the garage and started messing around with it. I got a phone call while repairing the cable and next thing I knew 25-30 minutes had gone bye. When I walked out to my TT there was smoke billowing out from under it. I tried reinserting the plunger but couldn't get it to go in. I didn't think to just cut the small wire on the breakaway switch but quickly disconnected the battery. When all was said and done I had burned up the breakaway switch, most of the wiring back to the first wheel and also the wiring that went through the axle. Luckily the solenoids didn't burn up and rewiring was relatively easy. Always disconnect the battery if you ever need to pull the plunger out for more than a minute or two. Even though your brakes work fine I would pull the coroplast down from the front to the first wheel along the drivers side of the RV and check the wiring for damage.
 

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