Cable port in slide wall

[Jas1970]

Gonna drill a 2” hole right next to entry door in my slide side wall… Installing a cable port..
Need to have a way of running my Starlink cable so I don’t have to run it out the window…Anyone have any idea we’re or if there are studs in that wall?
Gonna do somewhere beneath the window…
2019 Solitude ST310GK…

Thanks
Jason

 

[Soundsailor]

Some have used the cable or satellite cable connections. No need to drill.

 

[Second Chance]

On our previous Reflection, I installed a "thru-hull" coax fitting in the underside of the slide under the entertainment center. On our Solitude 310, I just fed the cable through the bottom corner of the driver's side slide. There's plenty of room with the seals, etc. I'm sure it could be done on the passenger side, too. I don't like putting holes in RV walls - especially if you don't know where the aluminum framing is.

Rob

 

[RickLight]

I'd drill the slide floor before a side wall. Thinner and inherently protected in use.

But I second Robs suggestion of the seal. I have a couple of mouse sized openings that I closed with steel wool.

 

[Albertasaurus]

We are in our second full season with Starlink, and its cable runs through the bottom corner of the bunkhouse slide seal. Zero issues in two years.

 

[traveldawg]

IF you decide to drill through the wall.....

Start on the inside and with the smallest drill bit you have puncture the luan on the wall and then just push the drill in.

If it goes in easily and stops when it meets the outside fiberglass then there is likely no obstruction behind where you want the hole to be.

I say "likely" because you don't know if you just missed some internal framing or not. So next, remove the luan on the inside wall using your drill bit you intel to use through the entire wall. but just remove the luan.

Then remove the styrofoam insulation where you want the hole. Then you know for sure whether-or-not there is any obstruction.

Finally you can drill through the outside wall. But only to get a pilot hole. You DON'T want to drill from the inside to the outside. You DO WANT to use the pilot hole and drill from the outside wall through to the inside (this keeps the hole neat and doesn't splinter the fiber glass).

I've done this a bunch of times for a dryer vent, 8"x8" electrical cable reel port, microwave vent, and an Ethernet port on the back of my rig for a WiFi repeater system I have.

 

[Jas1970]

Thanks everyone..
I found this so it won’t be such a large hole…
I’ll probably use my stud finder and see if it will pickup aluminum..
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CH8B4FPM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

 

[Tony_in_AZ]

I run the SAT cable between the slide seals at the floor on our unit where it is next to the TV center

 

[03griz]

I have been running mine through the slide seal, however next trip I am planning to just put the router in the basement. This way I can run the cable up through the hole that is already there. Campsite side, not at the wetbay side. The starlink router can be accessed from quite far away so I see no issues with having it in the basement instead of inside the living space.

 

[classicrockguy]

I used this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BL43XPHC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

to get my Dish Outdoor satellite cable through the slide wall directly into the receiver located just above the TV. It is high in the upper rear corner of the slide wall just below where a slide topper bracket would be. No issues with internal framing and a relatively small hole. The location allows me to place my satellite dish anywhere on the top of the trailer depending on trees, etc.

I couldn’t use the factory coax setup as it has way too much line loss due to crappy coax, fittings, and splitters. This works way better.

 

[IBEW Sparky]

Gonna drill a 2” hole right next to entry door in my slide side wall… Installing a cable port..
Need to have a way of running my Starlink cable so I don’t have to run it out the window…Anyone have any idea we’re or if there are studs in that wall?
Gonna do somewhere beneath the window…
2019 Solitude ST310GK…

Thanks
Jason

If you contact GD customer service they will send you a print with a cut of the wall showing the framing for whatever wall you want to penetrate.

 

[traveldawg]

If you contact GD customer service they will send you a print with a cut of the wall showing the framing for whatever wall you want to penetrate.

You need to look at what I did. Check out this thread.

Need more details? Let me know.

oh - and only made a 3/4" or 1" hole.

 

[PeterInNH]

More Starlink cabling questions.

I want to use the shelving in the outside kitchen compartment to hold and power the Starlink router.

Last trip out I just ran the cable out to the dish and closed the door but that resulted in the seals and cable itself not looking so great. So, now I'm looking for a way to run the cable thru the compartment door and still keep the interior dry.

From my boating days the easiest solution seems like something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F5QSS45/?coliid=IBDGARSP23EM2&colid=3JIEEP3LGR5T8&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

Would probably be just fine 99.9% of the time....

But then I ran across this which seems a much better solution - however it seems it's designed for very thin walls/sheet metal and won't work on the door which is about 3/4" thick:

Amazon.com

Does someone make something like this but able to handle greater depth ?

Are there other options (ones which don't require me to cut cables/build my own) ?

Thanks,

Peter

 

[IBEW Sparky]

More Starlink cabling questions.

I want to use the shelving in the outside kitchen compartment to hold and power the Starlink router.

Last trip out I just ran the cable out to the dish and closed the door but that resulted in the seals and cable itself not looking so great. So, now I'm looking for a way to run the cable thru the compartment door and still keep the interior dry.

From my boating days the easiest solution seems like something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F5QSS45/?coliid=IBDGARSP23EM2&colid=3JIEEP3LGR5T8&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

Would probably be just fine 99.9% of the time....

But then I ran across this which seems a much better solution - however it seems it's designed for very thin walls/sheet metal and won't work on the door which is about 3/4" thick:

Amazon.com

Does someone make something like this but able to handle greater depth ?

Are there other options (ones which don't require me to cut cables/build my own) ?

Thanks,

Peter

Bring the cable into the outside compartment from underneath utilizing a port similar to those used for your water hose or power port.

 

[PeterInNH]

Bring the cable into the outside compartment from underneath utilizing a port similar to those used for your water hose or power port.

Well, thought of something like that except that would have to go thru the underbelly, insulation, etc and since I don't know what's in there not inclined to start drilling any holes.

Thanks.

 

[IBEW Sparky]

Well, thought of something like that except that would have to go thru the underbelly, insulation, etc and since I don't know what's in there not inclined to start drilling any holes.

Thanks.

Many outdoor kitchens are in slidouts. If yours isn't simple pull down the Coroplast and take a peek. I'd much rather go that route than through the sidewall where it could leak.