Change out your 2 piece lug nuts!!!

[wcampbell]

We just bought a 2015 Reflection 323bhs and love it. Leaving the dealer, I caught a rivet in one tire so with a slow leak I attempted to remove it for repair when I got home. However, one lug nut would not come off and began to strip.

I put the lug nuts back on and took the trailer to Les Schwab. After a short fight the tire was removed and I learned the two piece lug nuts are steel and tin! The tin portion began to crush and strip easily! Thank God I wasn't in the middle of no where.

Les Schwab replaced all 24 lug nuts with a 1 piece design and balanced all 4 tires which were out if balance. The balancing will hopefully prolong bearing life!

I recommend to all owners to replace your lug nuts!

Bill

 

[ACDW-Ottawa]

Never heard of 2 piece lug nuts before. I can't picture it from your description. I have a solitude and never noticed anything different but I haven't removed a nut yet. Now I am curious and have to wait a bit before I can check it and see if I have this 2 piece lug nut that you are talking about because its at the repair shop. Do you have a picture? I imagine that might help others to understand it better and to check their RV. Thanks for posting this issue.

 

[Dave and Monica]

He's referring to the stainless steel cladding over steel lug nuts that were also on our Reflection. I had some problems removing some on our camper when I removed the wheels for balancing. On a few the cladding had split and you were not able to get the socket far enough onto the lug nut to remove. I ended up hammering on a 6 pt impact socket to get a few off. All were replaced with chromed ones.

These were also used in the automotive industry back in the 80's without much success.

Dave

 

[Toddly]

Yes, these lug nuts are terrible! I replaced all of mine when I packed my bearings. Costco sells good lug nuts for about .45 each. Just ask in the tire shop. BTW, all four of my bearing seals were leaking after only one year.

 

[ACDW-Ottawa]

Now I understand what you mean. I agree, if I have those stainless steel lug nut covers, I will change mine too. I also will check my bearing seals to see if they are leaking.

I wonder if those bearing seals are a warrantable item within the first year? Hmmmm, will have to check.

This forum is a great tool to have!

Thanks to everyone for your help!

 

[Gsport]

Same here, just replaced all 32 of mine..

 

[pwrplay]

Yup , I remember those terrible lug nuts. I used to be parts manager for a GM dealer and we would replace tons of those in the 80's, under warranty where the chrome cap just sheered right off. Gotta swap those ASAP.

 

[BratsMonster]

Seriously? We are purchasing a 385TH. Chose GD for their reputation of good workmanship. Cutting corners with these garbage nuts seems a bit ridiculous. What's the company's stance on this? I'll definitely be checking this out on my PDI!

 

[Cate&Rob]

Stainless Steel cladded lug nuts are common on many current cars, trucks and trailers.
If you use a good quality 6 point socket and a manual wrench to break the lugs free, you will not have a problem.
A 12 point socket and an air tool . . . you will likely rip off the cladding .

Rob

 

[RGMutchler]

Rob is probably right about using the proper socket but since I have found I can't even count on these tire shops to torque the lugs properly that I won't count on them having the proper sockets for the impacts, consequently I replace all of mine with solid lug nuts. Some times preventive actions have more to do with the "professionals" that work on our vehicles than it does our actions.

 

[TENN22]

Rob is probably right about using the proper socket but since I have found I can't even count on these tire shops to torque the lugs properly that I won't count on them having the proper sockets for the impacts, consequently I replace all of mine with solid lug nuts. Some times preventive actions have more to do with the "professionals" that work on our vehicles than it does our actions.

Speaking of properly torqued, what torque setting do you use for your lug nuts?

 

[RGMutchler]

Speaking from memory, without going and looking at the Lippert manual I am pretty sure that for the 15 inch wheels it is 90 to 120 ft. lbs. But check you manual for the proper torque for your vehicle and wheel size.

 

[Cate&Rob]

Speaking from memory, without going and looking at the Lippert manual I am pretty sure that for the 15 inch wheels it is 90 to 120 ft. lbs. But check you manual for the proper torque for your vehicle and wheel size.

Ralph is correct . . . as usual .
A curiously wide range for a torque spec . . . but that is what their book says.

Rob

 

[steve gravelle]

Think Chevy Nova! First time I owned and used a 18 mm. socket!

 

[Cate&Rob]

Think Chevy Nova! First time I owned and used a 18 mm. socket!

Actually 19 mm. 3/4" and 19 mm are only a few thou different. Probably the closest that the metric and SAE measurements come together. Either (in a six point socket) will work fine on a lug nut.

Rob

 

[WhittleBurner]

If you still have the capped lug nuts and the caps come off an 18mm socket will then fit the nut that is left.

 

[Canyonlight]

Steve - might of been many of the reasons my 67 camaro seemed to be at the line b4 any (your) nova(s) - not to mention 4:88s and a stout 302 !

Dan

 

[BratsMonster]

Steve - might of been many of the reasons my 67 camaro seemed to be at the line b4 any (your) nova(s) - not to mention 4:88s and a stout 302 !

Dan

I don't think you mean 302 in the Chevy

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[Cate&Rob]

I don't think you mean 302 in the Chevy

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You are thinking 302 as a Ford motor. The Chev 302 was an amazing engine. A 283 crankshaft in a 350 block (or maybe the other way around ?) Anyway . . . an incredibly strong engine.

Rob

 

[redram]

Chevy had the 302 before ford. 283 block 327 crank. Don