Chevy 2500 HD, hitch advice request

AllenV

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Corrales, NM
I am moving from an old truck to a new one.

New truck: 2023 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD, crew cab short bed (6.8 foot bed)
HAS OEM 5th wheel/gooseneck under bed mounting pucks.

Old truck: 2008 Ford F-250 crew cab short bed (6.75 foot bed )
Uses old-school rail mounts bolted above bed floor.

The old truck and hitch is my first foray into 5th wheel towing and number decisions were made with an abundance of naivete. We used a Husky 16K hitch on a 16K roller mount. (See image attached below.). This set-up functions well but does “clunk” a fair amount and get itself into a mode of “chucking” fore-and-aft where I need to brake slightly to settle it down. As I understand it, the sliding bar type of hitch has some slop in it, as do the slider rollers. This freeplay allows enough fore-aft movement to “chuck”. I have spent time adjusting out as much free-play as I can without causing it to bind up.

We have, however, become accustomed to the manual slider. The rearward position offers allows the tailgate to be open during hitch/un-hitch. And, of course, the peace of mind regarding sharp turns.

In this new truck I’d like take advantage of the OEM mounts and eliminate the chucking. It would be nice to stay with a manual slider. BUT, weight is important. My 3108 lb payload capacity says that I should not use a near-400-lb beast automatic slider, for example.

Plus, I do remove the hitch when not traveling.

I see a few possibilities and want to solicit advice and opinions from folks with the same or similar trucks and fifth wheels.

1a) B&W Companion OEM Slider (RVK3775)
Looks really nice but is heavy, at about 280 lbs. ( I think. B&W is carefully avoids listing weights.)

1b). B&W Companion fixed position hitch:
Lighter than the slider, but NOT a slider (what does this weigh??)
Any folks out there with 303RLS and Chevy 2500/2500 short beds using this? What is your experience?

2) Anderson Ultimate
Super light. NOT a slider. Different sort of hooking up scheme.
Any folks out there with 303RLS and Chevy 2500/2500 short beds using this? What is your experience?

3) Buy an adapter plate (Demco or Curt, for example) and move the old Husky 16K slider into the new truck.
It will work. It will also still be clunky and chucky.
Need to examine the height of the adapter plate versus the height of the rail bolted in the F-250.
The bed of the new truck is a maybe ½ inch higher and perhaps the springs will sag less.

4) Demco and Pullrite
NO manual sliders. I am resisting automatic sliders. Is the foolish?

5) Curt
They have a manual slider, but the whole things seems to be too tall.

What am I missing? What is working well for you?

Here is that photo of the old hitch:
 

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Your combo seems to be the perfect candidate for either the Andersen Ultimate or the PullRite SuperLite (same hitch concept- the Andersen has the cup on the king pin and the PullRite puts the cup on the hitch base). We pulled our first 11,600 miles with an Andersen (steel model on rails) towing a Reflection 337. We set it up so that the cup on the king pin was forward of the pin which increased the distance from the front of the trailer to the back of the cab. It would get to near 90 degrees without contacting the cab... but who does that, anyway? It's too hard on the trailer suspension. Both hitches are very light and remove/install in minutes. With either hitch, I think you'll want to install a dampened pin box (I like the MORryde rubber pin box) to smooth out the ride. We installed a dampened pin box on the Reflection and the difference was amazing.

Rob
 
Another option is the Reese Goosebox. I had the Goosebox on my 311, and there is absolutely NO clunk. It also gives you a free bed when you unhitch with the exception of the ball in the bed.
 
Another option is the Reese Goosebox. I had the Goosebox on my 311, and there is absolutely NO clunk. It also gives you a free bed when you unhitch with the exception of the ball in the bed.

This is also a good option, but did you have any issues hitching up by yourself since the ball is not visible in the bed of the truck from the driver's seat?

Rob
 
This is also a good option, but did you have any issues hitching up by yourself since the ball is not visible in the bed of the truck from the driver's seat?

Rob
No, as a matter of fact I taught my wife how to do it so she could take the 311 on a trip with the kids when I couldn't get off work. I hitched up the RV to the truck and painted a white line across the hitch with 2 corresponding white lines on the bed rails. All you had to do was line up all 3 lines and it was ready for hitching. We had the in-bed camera on the last truck which helped, but you could also see the lines through the back window if needed.
 
[MENTION=26482]AllenV[/MENTION], we have the Andersen with our Reflection. Super light and I find it extremely easy to hitch.
 
Your combo seems to be the perfect candidate for either the Andersen Ultimate or the PullRite SuperLite (same hitch concept- the Andersen has the cup on the king pin and the PullRite puts the cup on the hitch base). We pulled our first 11,600 miles with an Andersen (steel model on rails) towing a Reflection 337. We set it up so that the cup on the king pin was forward of the pin which increased the distance from the front of the trailer to the back of the cab. It would get to near 90 degrees without contacting the cab... but who does that, anyway? It's too hard on the trailer suspension. Both hitches are very light and remove/install in minutes. With either hitch, I think you'll want to install a dampened pin box (I like the MORryde rubber pin box) to smooth out the ride. We installed a dampened pin box on the Reflection and the difference was amazing.

Rob

[MENTION=26482]AllenV[/MENTION], we have the Andersen with our Reflection. Super light and I find it extremely easy to hitch.

The Andersen does look really nice on paper. Knowing that the trailer won't hit the cab except in very tight turns AND that the base of the pin box won't hit the sides of the truck bed is my main concern. Since the 303RLS is very popular ( or similar trailers with the same nose and inbox?) I am hoping to gather data from folks with late model GM short bed and a 303RLS.

I will look at the PullRite you suggest.

SecondChance: Glad to see you've have a good experience with the steel version on rail. My owners manual for the truck sates in several places that GM does not recommend fifth wheel hitches that put weight directly on the sheet metal bed floor. The aluminum gooseneck mounting version of the Anderson clearly supports the weight of the pin on the square aluminum frame resting on the truck bed. Using the steel version for rail mount with an adapter plate to the 4 pucks would keep GM happy.


Here is something different I just found, Blue Ox
https://www.blueox.com/5th-wheel-hitches/

This is similar to Andersen except that it uses the normal pin.
 
The Andersen does look really nice on paper. Knowing that the trailer won't hit the cab except in very tight turns AND that the base of the pin box won't hit the sides of the truck bed is my main concern. Since the 303RLS is very popular ( or similar trailers with the same nose and inbox?) I am hoping to gather data from folks with late model GM short bed and a 303RLS.

I will look at the PullRite you suggest.

SecondChance: Glad to see you've have a good experience with the steel version on rail. My owners manual for the truck sates in several places that GM does not recommend fifth wheel hitches that put weight directly on the sheet metal bed floor. The aluminum gooseneck mounting version of the Anderson clearly supports the weight of the pin on the square aluminum frame resting on the truck bed. Using the steel version for rail mount with an adapter plate to the 4 pucks would keep GM happy.


Here is something different I just found, Blue Ox
https://www.blueox.com/5th-wheel-hitches/

This is similar to Andersen except that it uses the normal pin.

I forgot to mention that my experience with the Andersen was with a GMC Sierra CC with the 6'6" bed. I had tracks on the inside of the bedrails for a bed cover in place on that truck which reduced the inside clearance on tight turns, but elevating the ball a notch (which also leveled the trailer) gave enough clearance to the pin box when rotated to the side.

Rob
 
I am moving from an old truck to a new one.

New truck: 2023 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD, crew cab short bed (6.8 foot bed)
HAS OEM 5th wheel/gooseneck under bed mounting pucks.

Old truck: 2008 Ford F-250 crew cab short bed (6.75 foot bed )
Uses old-school rail mounts bolted above bed floor.

The old truck and hitch is my first foray into 5th wheel towing and number decisions were made with an abundance of naivete. We used a Husky 16K hitch on a 16K roller mount. (See image attached below.). This set-up functions well but does “clunk” a fair amount and get itself into a mode of “chucking” fore-and-aft where I need to brake slightly to settle it down. As I understand it, the sliding bar type of hitch has some slop in it, as do the slider rollers. This freeplay allows enough fore-aft movement to “chuck”. I have spent time adjusting out as much free-play as I can without causing it to bind up.

We have, however, become accustomed to the manual slider. The rearward position offers allows the tailgate to be open during hitch/un-hitch. And, of course, the peace of mind regarding sharp turns.

In this new truck I’d like take advantage of the OEM mounts and eliminate the chucking. It would be nice to stay with a manual slider. BUT, weight is important. My 3108 lb payload capacity says that I should not use a near-400-lb beast automatic slider, for example.

Plus, I do remove the hitch when not traveling.

I see a few possibilities and want to solicit advice and opinions from folks with the same or similar trucks and fifth wheels.

1a) B&W Companion OEM Slider (RVK3775)
Looks really nice but is heavy, at about 280 lbs. ( I think. B&W is carefully avoids listing weights.)

1b). B&W Companion fixed position hitch:
Lighter than the slider, but NOT a slider (what does this weigh??)
Any folks out there with 303RLS and Chevy 2500/2500 short beds using this? What is your experience?

2) Anderson Ultimate
Super light. NOT a slider. Different sort of hooking up scheme.
Any folks out there with 303RLS and Chevy 2500/2500 short beds using this? What is your experience?

3) Buy an adapter plate (Demco or Curt, for example) and move the old Husky 16K slider into the new truck.
It will work. It will also still be clunky and chucky.
Need to examine the height of the adapter plate versus the height of the rail bolted in the F-250.
The bed of the new truck is a maybe ½ inch higher and perhaps the springs will sag less.

4) Demco and Pullrite
NO manual sliders. I am resisting automatic sliders. Is the foolish?

5) Curt
They have a manual slider, but the whole things seems to be too tall.

What am I missing? What is working well for you?

Here is that photo of the old hitch:

Hey Allen - on our last truck we used the Companion slider. Way too heavy, even in two pieces. My new Sierra 2500HD has the fifth wheel prep package which includes the hitch platform and has the standard bed. There is a fixed Companion made for this setup. I think the model number is RVK3300. It is quite manageable and, at least with my 341RDS, a slider isn’t necessary. Fits perfectly. It tears down into two pieces, so I can easily remove or install the hitch on my own. Anyway, good luck with this.
 
Hey Allen - on our last truck we used the Companion slider. Way too heavy, even in two pieces. My new Sierra 2500HD has the fifth wheel prep package which includes the hitch platform and has the standard bed. There is a fixed Companion made for this setup. I think the model number is RVK3300. It is quite manageable and, at least with my 341RDS, a slider isn’t necessary. Fits perfectly. It tears down into two pieces, so I can easily remove or install the hitch on my own. Anyway, good luck with this.

Fantastic. I have been curious about the option 1b), fixed Companion. I'll go try to figure out if your 341RDS is any different than my 303RLS
 
Well, I have gone off the deep end on this, but I think the results will interest at least some folks.

I was puzzled by the fact that the old Ford with the Husky slider would just BARELY allow the tailgate to drop when hitched and in the forward “drive” position. Yet I see plenty of images with fixed hitches and easily used tailgates. The solution was to measure where the RV dealer located the hitch when they installed it. I went out and measured that it is 3.5” IN FRONT of the axle.

Thus I was curious as to how a properly located hitch would locate the truck relative to the trailer. Then it snowballed into a measurement of cab interference with some different hitches.

First, where are the OEM puck mounts relative to the axle? The best info I found is that the socket for the gooseball is 2” behind the axle on the standard (short) bed GM. Then a tape measure tells me the rear 5th wheel pucks are 4.75” behind the gooseball. The front rear spacing of the pucks is 13”.

Now, the B&W fixed OEM hitch places the kingpin either 2” behind the axle or right on top of it. (Per B&W website.). Buried in all this arithmetic is the fact that the B&W hitch puts the kingpin 1.75” aft of the puck centerline, or 0.25” in front of it.

I marked the truck bed with tape. I put a plumb-bob on the RV king pin and set the truck in place (without a hitch) to have a look at the positioning. Images below show this. Note, the tapes are at the puck locations, halfway between the pucks, and 3” aft of the puck centerline. With kingpin about 2.5-ish inches behind the centerline, I dropped the tailgate and measured 10” of clearance to the front storage door of the RV. Happy days! That seems normal.

Now, to check cab interference at a 90 degree turn angle. Compare half the width of the trailer to the distance from the kingpin center to the back of the cab. The 303RLS is 97” wide. Half of 97 is 48.5”

Tape measuring from the tape on the bed, and correcting for the actual placement of the kingpin 1.75" aft of the centerline, tells me that the B&W hitch with the kingpin located to the rearmost location puts the kingpin 46.25 inches from the rear window. Thus the RV and the window OVERLAP by 2.25 inches when turned 90 degrees.

What about other hitches?

The Anderson Ultimate (steel version for rail mount) locates the hitch center 5” aft of the puck centerline. Doing the math for this shows that the Andersen hitch moves the RV back enough that the RV CLEARS the cab window by 1” when turned 90 degrees.

The PullRite SuperLite locates the hitch center AT the puck centerline. Doing the math for this shows that the SuperLite hitch moves the RV forward enough that the RV OVERLAPS the cab window by 4” when turned 90 degrees

Here are the images. Sorry, they are out of order. Pay no attention to ride heights. The RV is on its legs and the truck is unloaded.
 

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I would second the recommendation of the Reece Goosebox. Two shocks and a built in airbag makes for a great ride with minimal chucking. When you unhook you have a clean bed with no heavy hitch in the way.

As far as the hitch location in your truck, I've read that the 2020 and later Chevy HDs moved the OEM mounts rearward, minimizing or eliminating the need for a slider hitch. Chevy experts may be able to confirm.
 
Based on your measurements, you cant do a 90° turn, but in all reality, when do you really NEED to do a turn at such an extreme angle? As long as you keep an eye on truck to trailer clearance on sharp turns and when backing, it should be ok.

I would hope others with short beds and fixed mounted hitches chime in. I do know there have been plenty of people on this forum who say they have a short bed and fixed hitch who dont have problems, but on the other hand there are those with busted rear windows.
 
Some windows get broken in a tight turn on unlevel ground. That's why you should always watch when making a tight turn. Level ground it might be fine but when on unlevel ground it could hit.
 
Great input, here's where I am at so far.

My top-ranked solution is to install a B&W Companion OEM fifth-wheel hitch (RVK3710). This is a fixed hitch. We like retaining the fifth-wheel configuration for ease of hook/unhook. Users report minimal, if any, noise or chucking. It is lightweight and easily removed to clear the bed when not in use. The head weighs 75 lbs and the base weighs about 90 lbs, total about 165 lbs.. These numbers are manageable on my own without a hoist. A number of you have reported successful towing in a GM standard (short) bed with out a slider so long as one stays aware to avoid too-high angles. However, I like to plan for failure. In this case, if I am unhappy with the possible turning angles with the B&W fixed hitch, I will then install a Reese Sidewinder.

The Anderson is a contender. The one advantage is the pivot point is 3" further back compared to the B&W. The weight is similar given that my truck would need an 80 lb adapter plate to industry standard rails. (Total of about 145 lbs, hitch + kingpin adapter + rail adapter). This no-doubt offers the greatest turn clearance of the fixed hitches but no assurance that it will be enough, and hitch/unhitch to a ball is less desirable.

The Reese Goosebox looks to be nice hitch. However, it does not offer any contingency if I am unhappy with maximum turning angles. The goose box would need to be removed and replaced with some other solution. Also, it is a ball-type hitch mounted down low in the bed where visibility during hook/unhook can be a problem. This in spite of the fancy bed-view camera.

Have not bought anything, yet.
 
Well, I have gone off the deep end on this, but I think the results will interest at least some folks.

I was puzzled by the fact that the old Ford with the Husky slider would just BARELY allow the tailgate to drop when hitched and in the forward “drive” position. Yet I see plenty of images with fixed hitches and easily used tailgates. The solution was to measure where the RV dealer located the hitch when they installed it. I went out and measured that it is 3.5” IN FRONT of the axle.

Thus I was curious as to how a properly located hitch would locate the truck relative to the trailer. Then it snowballed into a measurement of cab interference with some different hitches.

First, where are the OEM puck mounts relative to the axle? The best info I found is that the socket for the gooseball is 2” behind the axle on the standard (short) bed GM. Then a tape measure tells me the rear 5th wheel pucks are 4.75” behind the gooseball. The front rear spacing of the pucks is 13”.

Now, the B&W fixed OEM hitch places the kingpin either 2” behind the axle or right on top of it. (Per B&W website.). Buried in all this arithmetic is the fact that the B&W hitch puts the kingpin 1.75” aft of the puck centerline, or 0.25” in front of it.

I marked the truck bed with tape. I put a plumb-bob on the RV king pin and set the truck in place (without a hitch) to have a look at the positioning. Images below show this. Note, the tapes are at the puck locations, halfway between the pucks, and 3” aft of the puck centerline. With kingpin about 2.5-ish inches behind the centerline, I dropped the tailgate and measured 10” of clearance to the front storage door of the RV. Happy days! That seems normal.

Now, to check cab interference at a 90 degree turn angle. Compare half the width of the trailer to the distance from the kingpin center to the back of the cab. The 303RLS is 97” wide. Half of 97 is 48.5”

Tape measuring from the tape on the bed, and correcting for the actual placement of the kingpin 1.75" aft of the centerline, tells me that the B&W hitch with the kingpin located to the rearmost location puts the kingpin 46.25 inches from the rear window. Thus the RV and the window OVERLAP by 2.25 inches when turned 90 degrees.

What about other hitches?

The Anderson Ultimate (steel version for rail mount) locates the hitch center 5” aft of the puck centerline. Doing the math for this shows that the Andersen hitch moves the RV back enough that the RV CLEARS the cab window by 1” when turned 90 degrees.

The PullRite SuperLite locates the hitch center AT the puck centerline. Doing the math for this shows that the SuperLite hitch moves the RV forward enough that the RV OVERLAPS the cab window by 4” when turned 90 degrees

Here are the images. Sorry, they are out of order. Pay no attention to ride heights. The RV is on its legs and the truck is unloaded.

I use that fixed Companion hitch, and it’s true it does get pretty close, but I’ve never had to go to 90 degrees. Pretty close, but so far no broken glass. I just keep an eye on it when making the turn.
 
I use that fixed Companion hitch, and it’s true it does get pretty close, but I’ve never had to go to 90 degrees. Pretty close, but so far no broken glass. I just keep an eye on it when making the turn.

Thank you for letting me know the Companion is working for you. You have the identical bed and hitch geometry as I.
 
[MENTION=26482]AllenV[/MENTION] I'm confused on your comment about the Andersen needing an 80lb adapter plate. If you are referring to the Andersen Ultimate Hitch, it connects to the truck via goose ball. You already have the 5th wheel prep, which includes a goose ball connection, you would only need the ball, no rails, unless I'm missing something.
 
[MENTION=26482]AllenV[/MENTION] I'm confused on your comment about the Andersen needing an 80lb adapter plate. If you are referring to the Andersen Ultimate Hitch, it connects to the truck via goose ball. You already have the 5th wheel prep, which includes a goose ball connection, you would only need the ball, no rails, unless I'm missing something.

It is ,perhaps, a subtle point. My GM owners manual instructs that no hitch should be used which puts weight directly on the bed of the truck. The Andersen Ultimate with gooseball attachment does exactly that. Significant load is borne by the outer square of braces. The steel version of Anderson puts all load onto an industry standard rail. I am suggesting that an ISR-to-bed-puck adapter should be used carry the loads from the Andersen ISR mounts down to the frame of the truck.
 
[MENTION=26482]AllenV[/MENTION] I'm confused on your comment about the Andersen needing an 80lb adapter plate. If you are referring to the Andersen Ultimate Hitch, it connects to the truck via goose ball. You already have the 5th wheel prep, which includes a goose ball connection, you would only need the ball, no rails, unless I'm missing something.

(Continued from previous post)

Page 275 of your Silverado Owners Manual
“Attach the hitch to the tow vehicle frame rails. Do not use the pickup box for support”
 

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