Chronic 5th Wheel Issues: Battery, Door, and Service Frustrations Lead to Trade-In

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The original poster details a series of persistent problems with their Grand Design 5th wheel, including repeated battery failures, a malfunctioning door handle, water leaks after floor repairs, and the inability to operate landing gear without shore power. Despite multiple service visits and battery replacements, issues persisted, with dealership support limited by short warranty periods and high diagnostic fees. Members widely agree that parasitic battery drain is common due to safety... More...
Regarding your battery replacement issues:
I know two buds (one has 241RDS and the other 337) who are constantly fighting battery issues. Both routinely get stuck unable to operate the front jacks after the unit has sat in storage. In EVERY case it was a dead or dying battery.

After observing the operation of the battery kill switch, it was wired incorrectly from the factory. That is, when the battery switch was “OFF” there were items on the trailer that still had power. I noted the propane detector and some lights still had power. As we know, parasitic loads will drain a good battery in few days. After a few times, this will result in battery developing dead cells.

In order to mitigate these guys calling me for help, I recommended (In both cases) they disconnect the battery’s ground lug and in both cases they have not had any further problems.

Both guys have been through several batteries and dealer visits with no solution. Apparently the wiring is “as designed”.
That's what I did, installed a cut off switch on the negative cable
 
@mkm98584 Your 2023 303RLS has a solar panel, so unless you are storing under a cover, the battery should always be topped off. Since you are also keeping it connected to shore power, you may indeed have a defective converter or solar charger in that it is overcharging the battery.

One of the first things I did to my 2022 303RLS was to install a solar disconnect and a full battery disconnect. As others have mentioned, all towable RVs are now required to maintain power to “safety systems” whenever the battery is connected.

What is the issue with the door handle? On my 303, I found that it was best to get everything adjusted properly while leveled. There is enough flex that the door can be hard to latch when connected to the truck, but closes nicely when sitting level on all four stands.
 
@mkm98584 Your 2023 303RLS has a solar panel, so unless you are storing under a cover, the battery should always be topped off. Since you are also keeping it connected to shore power, you may indeed have a defective converter or solar charger in that it is overcharging the battery.

One of the first things I did to my 2022 303RLS was to install a solar disconnect and a full battery disconnect. As others have mentioned, all towable RVs are now required to maintain power to “safety systems” whenever the battery is connected.

What is the issue with the door handle? On my 303, I found that it was best to get everything adjusted properly while leveled. There is enough flex that the door can be hard to latch when connected to the truck, but closes nicely when sitting level on all four stands.
"As others have mentioned, all towable RVs are now required to maintain power to “safety systems” whenever the battery is connected."

I haven't read that the power is "required" to be connected, I just figured it was a CYA thing from the builders. Can you point to anything that says it's required?

I know the breakaway switch is required to be directly connected to the battery, but that was the only thing I was aware of.
 
There is nothing that I am aware of that specifically states that the LP detector circuit cannot be disconnected by the battery disconnect switch, however, the RVIA defers to NFPA 1192 for fire safety which includes LP detectors, CO detectors, and fire detectors.

The 1996 edition of NFPA 1192 included the requirement for an LP-Gas detector (section 34.7). All newer recreational vehicles that utilize gas appliances are now required to have carbon monoxide (CO) and LP-gas alarms. Since RV LP detectors are all hardwired and do not have an internal battery, it cannot be considered a “working” detector if power is cut.

RV manufacturers that certify through the RVIA, Grand Design included, must ensure that every RV that rolls off their assembly line have a “working” LP detector. Since user error - accidentally disconnecting the battery disconnect switch could present a safety issue, the industry standard has evolved accordingly.

There are also other considerations such as in-wall slides. The Hall Effect motor in the in-wall slide requires power to activate the “brake” circuit. If power is cut to the slide, the potential exists for the slide to creep out during travel.
 
Could it be the hydraulic system relay? Does it start to lift the trailer then stop? If so, I would replace the relay. I don't know about now, but it used to be a common issue.
 
@mkm98584 Your 2023 303RLS has a solar panel, so unless you are storing under a cover, the battery should always be topped off. Since you are also keeping it connected to shore power, you may indeed have a defective converter or solar charger in that it is overcharging the battery.

One of the first things I did to my 2022 303RLS was to install a solar disconnect and a full battery disconnect. As others have mentioned, all towable RVs are now required to maintain power to “safety systems” whenever the battery is connected.

What is the issue with the door handle? On my 303, I found that it was best to get everything adjusted properly while leveled. There is enough flex that the door can be hard to latch when connected to the truck, but closes nicely when sitting level on all four stands.
The problem with the door, started when we bought the unit, the door itself was bent so far that the top and bottom touched the camper well before the latch was anywhere near the frame. The service center, told us to "just push harder". I finally took a couple of 2x4 scrap and put in the frame top and bottom and pushed the latch hard enough that I bent the door straight. Now it closes properly but the latch has been hard to unlock and to operate from both inside and outside. Have thought about replacing it, but have not.
 
The problem with the door, started when we bought the unit, the door itself was bent so far that the top and bottom touched the camper well before the latch was anywhere near the frame. The service center, told us to "just push harder". I finally took a couple of 2x4 scrap and put in the frame top and bottom and pushed the latch hard enough that I bent the door straight. Now it closes properly but the latch has been hard to unlock and to operate from both inside and outside. Have thought about replacing it, but have not.
Gotta love some of these service centers. The doors that they use are pretty flimsy and do tend to flex a lot. When you say that it is now straight, that isn’t necessarily a good thing. There should be about a 1/4” camber in the door - the top and bottom should both touch and the middle (latch) should still be out 1/4” to ensure a tight seal. I made a video a while back of a modification that I did to my 303RLS that made a huge difference. In the video, I am helping my brother in-law do the same to his Reflection 280RS. Simply replacing the door lock may not solve the problem if the strike plate is out of adjustment.

 
Well, we have finally had enough. We went to Texas in July and on our way back to TN.

We had to replace tires and one axle in Shreveport. I failed to take photos of the worn tire or the axle before replacing them so the word from the manufacturer was "No help".

We again had issues with the door handle not working properly. Layzdays has looked at the door several times and always they can get it to work while at the dealership, so off we go on a trip and again a problem.

We the same issue of not being able to disconnect or connect the 5th wheel without being connected to shore power, even if the truck is running, (keep getting the voltage alarm on the controller). Have changed the battery 3 times since we bought the rig. Today the service writer said "That sounds like a converter issue" we will need to test the system.

And the last thing, we discovered water dripping from the back of the unit when on a incline coming out of the corplast at the back of the unit. We think that it is related to the flooring work that was done when the floor was replaced. But since it is past 30 day they want us to pay to find out where it is coming from.

Took unit to Layzdays and they stated that any repair work they do is only warrantied for 30 days and since we are past that we have to pay over $500 for diagnostic.

The wife is beyond not happy. Every trip we have taken, we have had issues.

How do other 5th wheel owners disconnect? Can you lift your unit off the truck using the battery power in the rig or do you have to be connected to shore power?
Have you called GD directly? Or instead of going home to Tennessee, head to their facility in Goshen and have them fix the issues. Though wait another week or two as the national rally in going on right now.
 
Why the positive side? Might thought has always been to remove/switch the positive side. Yet I see many posts especially in discussions about batteries in cars, to remove the negative side.

My reason for disconnecting the positive side is that a short to ground will not do anything. If I disconnect the negative and have a short to ground it is essentially completing the circuit.

Not possible... ..how is a short to ground anywhere in or on the RV going to complete the circuit if the ground cable is completely disconnected from the battery? It wont.
The reason to ALWAYS disconnect your negative battery terminal first is simple.... it's for safety reasons. If you attempt to disconnect the positive cable first and accidentally slip with the wrench and hit anything metal your going to have a dead short and possibly cause serious injury. If you disconnect the negative cable first and slip nothing will happen.
 
Well, we have finally had enough. We went to Texas in July and on our way back to TN.

We had to replace tires and one axle in Shreveport. I failed to take photos of the worn tire or the axle before replacing them so the word from the manufacturer was "No help".

We again had issues with the door handle not working properly. Layzdays has looked at the door several times and always they can get it to work while at the dealership, so off we go on a trip and again a problem.

We the same issue of not being able to disconnect or connect the 5th wheel without being connected to shore power, even if the truck is running, (keep getting the voltage alarm on the controller). Have changed the battery 3 times since we bought the rig. Today the service writer said "That sounds like a converter issue" we will need to test the system.

And the last thing, we discovered water dripping from the back of the unit when on a incline coming out of the corplast at the back of the unit. We think that it is related to the flooring work that was done when the floor was replaced. But since it is past 30 day they want us to pay to find out where it is coming from.

Took unit to Layzdays and they stated that any repair work they do is only warrantied for 30 days and since we are past that we have to pay over $500 for diagnostic.

The wife is beyond not happy. Every trip we have taken, we have had issues.

How do other 5th wheel owners disconnect? Can you lift your unit off the truck using the battery power in the rig or do you have to be connected to shore power?
To answer your question, yes we have a 2025 337RLS and we can hook and unhook with truck hooked up, shore power, or just battery.
Welcome to Grand Design. We are on our third one since 2021. Our first was a 268BH and was a trouble free unit, but we out grew it. Our next was a 2023 320MKS and it was a piece of crap from day one. GD did cover the problems, but after the third roof in less than a year, we traded it. Unfortunately, we traded for the 2025 337RLS on December 23rd and the a/c’s haven’t worked properly since. I don’t know whose idea it was to put Furion a/c’s on their trailers, but it was poor one. GD has sent new controllers and wall thermostats, but none have worked. Now GD is saying they won’t cover it anymore and it’s just going on 9 months old.
If I had a pocket full of money and a good lawyer, I would take them to court. As it is, this is our last Grand Design product of any kind.
Good Luck.
 
Why the positive side? Might thought has always been to remove/switch the positive side. Yet I see many posts especially in discussions about batteries in cars, to remove the negative side.

My reason for disconnecting the positive side is that a short to ground will not do anything. If I disconnect the negative and have a short to ground it is essentially completing the circuit.
It's not a short to ground if the neg terminal is disconnected. When changing car batteries you always disconnect neg first and reconnect negative last to limit the chance of a spark and a battery that goes boom (lead acid). So it makes sense to disconnect the neg side if you're pulling one connection for storage.
 
Why the positive side? Might thought has always been to remove/switch the positive side. Yet I see many posts especially in discussions about batteries in cars, to remove the negative side.
Electrically speaking, there is no difference. An open circuit is an open circuit. It’s all about standardization, and the industry as a whole has decided it is more acceptable to disconnect (via a switch) on the positive side (when physically disconnection from the battery terminals, the negative should always be first). The same question could be asked about fusing. Since electrons flow from negative to positive, wouldn’t it make more sense to fuse on the negative side?

From a troubleshooting perspective, I think most technicians will make the assumption that any battery disconnect is on the positive side. While it should be easy to spot the color of the cables running to the switch, that isn’t always the case. So, I guess my question to anyone that opts to install the switch on the negative side is, why?
 
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Water dripping out of the rear coreplast when the front of the trailer is raised very high is pretty common if you use the black tank flush. There is an anti-siphon valve in the flush water line that sometimes leaks a small amount of water when the water to the flush hose is turned off. This is normal. On our current 337RLS the valve is behind the shower, while on our previous 230RL it was under the bathroom sink. That water has to go somewhere and ends up in a low spot on the coreplast where it can evaporate. When the front of the trailer is raised high enough, that water can run out the back of the coreplast. It is usually a pretty small amount but will look like gallons if not expecting it. Still a good idea to keep an eye out just in case the water is coming from an expensive location.
 
To answer your question, yes we have a 2025 337RLS and we can hook and unhook with truck hooked up, shore power, or just battery.
Welcome to Grand Design. We are on our third one since 2021. Our first was a 268BH and was a trouble free unit, but we out grew it. Our next was a 2023 320MKS and it was a piece of crap from day one. GD did cover the problems, but after the third roof in less than a year, we traded it. Unfortunately, we traded for the 2025 337RLS on December 23rd and the a/c’s haven’t worked properly since. I don’t know whose idea it was to put Furion a/c’s on their trailers, but it was poor one. GD has sent new controllers and wall thermostats, but none have worked. Now GD is saying they won’t cover it anymore and it’s just going on 9 months old.
If I had a pocket full of money and a good lawyer, I would take them to court. As it is, this is our last Grand Design product of any kind.
Good Luck.
I thought the 3rd time was supposed to be the charm. :)
 
From a troubleshooting perspective, I think most technicians will make the assumption that any battery disconnect is on the positive side. While it should be easy to spot the color of the cables running to the switch, that isn’t always the case. So, I guess my question to anyone that opts to install the switch on the negative side is, why?
I installed my Blue Sea on the positive side to eliminate the parasitic draw that the factory disconnect does not do. However, when removing batteries, I always remove the negative cable first and it's the last to be connected on install.
 
Update, we traded our 2023 GD 303RLS for a new 2025 Montana High Country 295RL. We just wanted away from the problems and terrible service that LazyDays of Strawberry Plains did on our rig. Everyone should stay away from them, they do not stand by their word and the work they did on our unit was poorly done, causing more problems than they solved.
 
The easiest thing to do and, IMO, the best, is to just buy a small solar panel of 20 or 30 watts and put it on the battery when parked. The panels almost all come with a built in controller so it is a simple connect it and let it run scenario.
I have a 31MB and it came with a 600w solar panel from the factory. It will keep the battery charged and the fridge cold indefinitely. I know this as my truck broke down 600 miles from home and the camper sat in New York for 2 weeks and everything was good when I picked it up. I think the solar panel is a good solution if you can't keep it plugged in all the time. Just my opinion.

Pete
 

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