Considering a new F250

BeerBrewer-MGRV

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My 2018 Ram 2500 CTD is headed for the repair shop AGAIN!!!! We were in the middle of 6 week trip and when heading to Tims Ford State Park in Tennessee from Paducah Kentucky and my ABS warning lights lit up and I lost cruise control. My scanner picked up code C0020 ABS Pump Electrical Failure. This is the second time we've had this issue. My brakes seemed to work fine, so we continued on, with bells going on and off as we drove. When we got to Tims Ford I called the local Ram dealer and was told they couldn't fit my tuck in for a week or two. Since we couldn't stay that long, we moved on. The next day we got in the truck and everything worked fine, then the day after that more alarms. It was intermittent like that for the rest of the trip. I called a few more dealers along the way and none would fit us in. Even though it only has 36,000 miles on it we've decided to trade it in. It is just not reliable enough and I'm DONE WITH IT!!! It has literally been in the repair short more than all of my other trucks combined.

Anyway..... I saw a nice new 2023 F250 Lariat Diesel in a local dealership. My only issue or concern is that it has a 3.31 ELECTRONIC-LOCKING AXLE. I was hoping for a 3.55 or higher. Is 3.31 enough?

Unfortunately, my truck won't be looked at until next week and I can't sell it with all the alarms, so the 2023 may be gone by the time my POS RAM is fixed.
 
Anyway..... I saw a nice new 2023 F250 Lariat Diesel in a local dealership. My only issue or concern is that it has a 3.31 ELECTRONIC-LOCKING AXLE. I was hoping for a 3.55 or higher. Is 3.31 enough?

With a diesel, more than enough.
 
My 2018 Ram 2500 CTD is headed for the repair shop AGAIN!!!! We were in the middle of 6 week trip and when heading to Tims Ford State Park in Tennessee from Paducah Kentucky and my ABS warning lights lit up and I lost cruise control. My scanner picked up code C0020 ABS Pump Electrical Failure. This is the second time we've had this issue. My brakes seemed to work fine, so we continued on, with bells going on and off as we drove. When we got to Tims Ford I called the local Ram dealer and was told they couldn't fit my tuck in for a week or two. Since we couldn't stay that long, we moved on. The next day we got in the truck and everything worked fine, then the day after that more alarms. It was intermittent like that for the rest of the trip. I called a few more dealers along the way and none would fit us in. Even though it only has 36,000 miles on it we've decided to trade it in. It is just not reliable enough and I'm DONE WITH IT!!! It has literally been in the repair short more than all of my other trucks combined.

Anyway..... I saw a nice new 2023 F250 Lariat Diesel in a local dealership. My only issue or concern is that it has a 3.31 ELECTRONIC-LOCKING AXLE. I was hoping for a 3.55 or higher. Is 3.31 enough?

Unfortunately, my truck won't be looked at until next week and I can't sell it with all the alarms, so the 2023 may be gone by the time my POS RAM is fixed.

No diesel, but got the 23 Godzilla 7.3 F250 Lariat SB w/3.73's w/camper plow suspension pkg electronic rear locker and it pulls great.

IMO, both the F250 and F350 suck in turning radius. The F350 will have a higher tow rate, but my F250 gasser pulls my 10k 5er just fine.
 
With the diesel and 10 speed transmission, the 3.31 vs the 3.55 should not be a problem. I think the tow rating for both of those ratios are the same.

But........the diesel engine is heavy. With an F250 Lariat, you may have only around 2000 lbs of payload available. An F350 is a better choice with the Power Stroke, especially if you ever want to upgrade to a 5th wheel.
 
With the 10 speed transmission, you won't feel the 3.31 gears aren't enough. The 6.7 is a beast.
 
My last pickup was a 2015 ram 2500 with the 6.7 cummins diesel, i had it since new, i just sold it last spring. The only problems i had were emissions related. I belong to a ram forum, there are lots of knowledgeable people there, i just did a quick check and i wasnt able to find others with a abs problem, but a question on said forum for rams, would be a good option.
 
From my reading, it's somewhat of a common problem with the Ram from about 2018 on. And there doesn't appear to be a real fix that lasts. Some have had the ABS system gone through and parts replaced, but it has come back after some of the repairs. Do a Google search for "Ram ABS problems". It comes and goes on my 2018 Ram, but doesn't affect the performance of the brakes except for the lack of ABS. The worst side affect is it disables the cruise control. The dash lights on mine will come on sometimes after hitting a big bump, which leads me to think it may be a loose ABS sensor. But it hasn't been enough of a hassle to try and track it down. The dinging of the alert is annoying though. Sometimes it will do it on cool, high humidity mornings, and sometimes in the rain. It usually goes away after a while and may not have another issue for weeks.

I go onto the Ram forums and see if anyone has made any progress on a real fix, but nothing the last time I checked. I imagine if it comes on and stays on I will address the issue, but for now it's not enough to make me get rid of the truck.
 
Whats the payload sticker on the door say? And what do you need? I would skip the F250 and just get a F350. They are about the same price.

From personal experience, I would second the motion about checking the payload numbers. When I had a 2011 F250 CrewCab, 4x4 XLT (not even a high trim model), the payload was 2148 lbs.....absolutely pitiful!
 
That would stink. I wonder what they changed and messed up on the 2018. I still didnt see anything big on a problem on the ram forum, but any problem that is recurring would suck. Especially when on the road full timing.

For my needs, i am glad i just went with a 2024 cheby 3500 6.6 gasser. The simplicity of it is amazing, compared to my 2015 diesel. The diesel was a 2500, my new payload is almost double with the 3500 and the gasser is about 270lbs less max towing that the diesel. I didnt need the ford 7.3 power, and didnt want the 6.4 hemi 16 spark plugs and cylinder deactivation stuff.
 
The payload sticker on the F250 that I looked said it was 2883 lbs. I know, not great. We tow an Imagine 2670mk and my tongue weight is around 1000 lbs, so 2883 lb's of payload should be ok. We don't pack much into the bed of the truck except a few bikes and extra folding chairs.

I definetly would consider a F350. In fact I'm also looking at a used 2022 F350 that has just over 10K miles on it. The appeal with the F250 was that it's new and is a left over 2023 and Ford is offering incentives on it.

As for my RAM 2500, its just had so many problems over the years that I just don't trust it any more. Once I get it back from the dealer and the dashboard is not showing any alarms I'm selling it.
 
That would stink. I wonder what they changed and messed up on the 2018. I still didnt see anything big on a problem on the ram forum, but any problem that is recurring would suck. Especially when on the road full timing.

For my needs, i am glad i just went with a 2024 cheby 3500 6.6 gasser. The simplicity of it is amazing, compared to my 2015 diesel. The diesel was a 2500, my new payload is almost double with the 3500 and the gasser is about 270lbs less max towing that the diesel. I didnt need the ford 7.3 power, and didnt want the 6.4 hemi 16 spark plugs and cylinder deactivation stuff.

I agree with the cylinder deactivation stuff. Had that on our previous truck, a Ram Laramie 5.7 Hemi and it sucked for towing. Nice otherwise though.
Rich
 
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The payload sticker on the F250 that I looked said it was 2883 lbs. I know, not great. We tow an Imagine 2670mk and my tongue weight is around 1000 lbs, so 2883 lb's of payload should be ok. We don't pack much into the bed of the truck except a few bikes and extra folding chairs.

I definetly would consider a F350. In fact I'm also looking at a used 2022 F350 that has just over 10K miles on it. The appeal with the F250 was that it's new and is a left over 2023 and Ford is offering incentives on it.

As for my RAM 2500, its just had so many problems over the years that I just don't trust it any more. Once I get it back from the dealer and the dashboard is not showing any alarms I'm selling it.

If it is of any benefit, you might just see what the annual registration fees are for a 250 vs 350. In MN the 250 started at $750 and declined over years as value declines, whereas the 350 is a flat $140. The purchase price was $1500 higher on the 350. Just something to look into. Not sure if that's just a MN thing or not.
 
If it is of any benefit, you might just see what the annual registration fees are for a 250 vs 350. In MN the 250 started at $750 and declined over years as value declines, whereas the 350 is a flat $140. The purchase price was $1500 higher on the 350. Just something to look into. Not sure if that's just a MN thing or not.

Definitely a MN thing. I believe all states are different. In IL its by what you register the truck weight as. When 250/2500's were limited to 10K they could run C plates. D's are good for 12K but most 350/3500's are above that now so they should technically run F plates (14k) same as duallys since they are 14K limited. I still run D's even with the dually. That may bite me one day but its never been an issue yet. The costs go up the heavier the plate.
 
2880 payload is plenty for most travel trailers and many sub 35’ FW’s. Should work great for you. Too bad about the Ram. Sure it’s not the norm, but I’m sure no matter the brand you can get a troublesome one.
 
My 2018 Ram 2500 CTD is headed for the repair shop AGAIN!!!! We were in the middle of 6 week trip and when heading to Tims Ford State Park in Tennessee from Paducah Kentucky and my ABS warning lights lit up and I lost cruise control. My scanner picked up code C0020 ABS Pump Electrical Failure. This is the second time we've had this issue. My brakes seemed to work fine, so we continued on, with bells going on and off as we drove. When we got to Tims Ford I called the local Ram dealer and was told they couldn't fit my tuck in for a week or two. Since we couldn't stay that long, we moved on. The next day we got in the truck and everything worked fine, then the day after that more alarms. It was intermittent like that for the rest of the trip. I called a few more dealers along the way and none would fit us in. Even though it only has 36,000 miles on it we've decided to trade it in. It is just not reliable enough and I'm DONE WITH IT!!! It has literally been in the repair short more than all of my other trucks combined.

Anyway..... I saw a nice new 2023 F250 Lariat Diesel in a local dealership. My only issue or concern is that it has a 3.31 ELECTRONIC-LOCKING AXLE. I was hoping for a 3.55 or higher. Is 3.31 enough?

Unfortunately, my truck won't be looked at until next week and I can't sell it with all the alarms, so the 2023 may be gone by the time my POS RAM is fixed.

A friend has an F350, 7.3 with 3.55 gears. He wishes he got the 3.73 gears. On even a flat terrain trip (think FL, GA) he drops out of 10th gear into 8th when going up an over pass. So he tows in 8th or 9th (chooses it manually). He figures if he had the 3.55s or even the 3.73s he could tow in the higher gear. It probably doesn't matter except in terms of RPM (or fuel mileage). His rig probably weighs between 14k and 15k.
 
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Definitely a MN thing. I believe all states are different. In IL its by what you register the truck weight as. When 250/2500's were limited to 10K they could run C plates. D's are good for 12K but most 350/3500's are above that now so they should technically run F plates (14k) same as duallys since they are 14K limited. I still run D's even with the dually. That may bite me one day but its never been an issue yet. The costs go up the heavier the plate.

Got it, must be MN then. I have 12K plates and it's still $140/year. Would be the same if I had chosen 10K plates as I understand it.
 
A fried has an F350, 7.3 with 3.55 gears. He wishes he got the 3.73 gears. On even a flat terrain trip (think FL, GA) he drops out of 10th gear into 8th when going up an over pass. So he tows in 8th or 9th (chooses it manually). He figures if he had the 3.55s or even the 3.73s he could tow in the higher gear. It probably doesn't matter except in terms of RPM (or fuel mileage). His rig probably weighs between 14k and 15k.

It might be a gasser thing, vs a diesel. My past diesel liked low rpm as it had more or double the tq. My new gasser, a cheby 6.6, said to be about the same transmission as the ford, but each have minor changes, again, from what i have found, they say.

Mine picks the gear the computer tells it it needs. Also having the 10 speed transmission, and i do have 3.73 rear end in my 3500. For example, i did a voice memo wile towing on a 60mph highway to jot down later, setting cruse at 62. I checked the weather, and almost dead headwind was 16mph. I cant tell what gear it is in out of the 10 as i have a WT/work truck, just what i wanted. RPM's were 2,400. I was towing almost empty, so about 8,000lbs on a flat road but have the front AC on this 273mk so it is a wind catcher.
I could have went diesel again, but am very glad i got and have a gasser. The simplicity is night and day difference in motor and emissions systems.
 

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