Convert Starlink Adapter to 12-volt

[alias100]

Could you say a bit more about your process in the conversion? I'm sure there are Starlink users on this forum that may want to go the same route.

I used the instructions and parts list on HTTPS://Starlinkhardware.com/tutorial-12v-dc-power-supply-for-Starlink-rv/
The only thing I added was a switch on the 12v wire coming from the batteries so I could disconnect the 12v going to the 48v converter (converts 12v to 48v that then gets sent via the POE Injector to the Starlink dish) and also the 12v powering the WiFi router (replaces the one built in to the Starlink). Total cost was about $140 or so.
Parts and approx. cost:
WiFi router ~ $50
12v to 48v converter ~ $48
POE Injector ~ $17
StarLink Ethernet Adaptor ~ $25 (could have modified the 50' cable that came with the StarLink but I want to be able to use the system on 120v at home)
Shielded Pass Through RJ-45 connectors with crimp tool ~ had on hand
Ethernet cable (will be modified) ~ had on hand
12v switch ~ $17 - my addition, not mentioned in the above article
The article has complete instructions and a video explaining everything better than I can. Only tricking part is modifying the Starlink Ethernet Adapter cable and the ethernet cable with the Shielded Pass Through RJ-45 connectors but it just takes some patience.
I put the WiFi router in the cabinets above the bed and the 12v switch, POE Injector and 12v to 48v converter in the pass through.
Hope this helps.

If the moderator(s) want to make this into new thread please go ahead and do so or let me know and I will start one. I don't want to hijack this thread.

 

[Soundsailor]

Thanks so much for this detailed look at your process [MENTION=39976]alias100[/MENTION], as suggested I've moved it to a thread of its own.

 

[SilentService]

[MENTION=39976]alias100[/MENTION] thanks for the detailed information. I will be doing this soon.
[MENTION=43166]Soundsailor[/MENTION] Thanks for putting this in it's own thread. A lot of StarLink users on here that will be interested in this.

 

[MoHoRV]

Also wanted to get rid of 110volt circuits
Now Dishy cable goes into front hold, and have cat6 from hold to behind TV. New USB off of Radio power is convenient for 12v router. I love it. Good luck

Herewith my shopping list ( all except on/off switch)

Dishy 12volt orders

$40
12V to 48V DC Step UP Converter,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7WZGCM3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

$81
YAOSHENG 150W GigE Passive PoE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BX74T2T5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

$35
YAOSHENG Rectangular Dishy Cable... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BYJTHX4P?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

$120
GL.iNet GL-MT3000 (Beryl AX)... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BPSGJN7T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


$15
Cat6 Ethernet Cable, 30 Feet (2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LTC87Q8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

$20
[Upgraded]2Pcs 12V/24V USB Outlet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098KD2G8F?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

[Riverbug]

Thanks so much for sharing. I like the "easy" method better. Really appreciate this information!

 

[SilentService]

Thanks so much for sharing. I like the "easy" method better. Really appreciate this information!

Here is a great link on the process. Very easy to follow and shows both ways to convert to 12v. Looks like you will want to stay with the easy way.
https://www.starlinkhardware.com/tutorial-12v-dc-power-supply-for-starlink-rv/

 

[alias100]

If anyone has finished the "Easy" version please let us know how it works.
Thanks

 

[COGrandDes]

Thanks so much for sharing. I like the "easy" method better. Really appreciate this information!

I used the same components but also got the dishy cable adapter so that I didn't have to alter the Starlink Ethernet cable. I installed the cable adapter in the propane closet so that I can fish the cable up from the bottom. I built a shelf in the front compartment for the wireless router and added two switches in my side storage compartment to power the dishy and router. Very clean and works awesome.

Here are some pics:

Pic showing where I mounted the dish cable adapter near the propane tank and my aux solar panel connector. Now I can run the starlink cable up through that area without opening any of the storage compartments.
Pic showing the master switch and power ports that I installed in the pass-through storage compartment. This is the main power for the dishy and for my wireless router. I also have ports for USB charging and 12v power ports if desired.
Pic showing the 48v step-up power supply for the dishy mounted in my front compartment with all my electrical components.
Pic of my 12v wireless router mounted to a shelf I made right above the Lithium batteries.

 

[SilentService]

If anyone has finished the "Easy" version please let us know how it works.
Thanks

Here is my set up but mounted on a board that I can move around once I find a more permanent spot.


Picture of everything looking into my battery bay.


Picture from above at my set up. I did not have the Starlink cable connected to the Dishy(upper right) at the time of this picture.


Picture of 12v distribution panel where I ran two lines, one to the 12/48 volt converter (10amp fuse) and one for my router(5amp fuse.)


All I need to do is hook up the router to these two connections and plug in the Starlink cable mentioned above.

Still working on cleaning up the wire mess so please don't judge

Overall I love the setup up. Worked the first time I tried it. Uses about 3 amps total.

 

[alias100]

Overall I love the setup up. Worked the first time I tried it. Uses about 3 amps total.

Looks great! Thanks for the pictures.

 

[Graybeard-MGRV]

Overall I love the setup up. Worked the first time I tried it. Uses about 3 amps total.

What router are you using that can also run off of 12 volts? Is it multi wan capable. Can I take any router that has an input voltage of 12 volts from its wall wart and simply cut off the wall wart and wire it in to a 12 volt line?

 

[COGrandDes]

Many switches and routers actually run off 12v DC but are powered through a 120V AC power supply that converts to 12v DC. Here is the router that I bought from Amazon and is working great.
TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router (Archer A7) -Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Router

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[MoHoRV]

What router are you using that can also run off of 12 volts? Is it multi wan capable?

$120
GL.iNet GL-MT3000 (Beryl AX)... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BPSGJN7T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You would have to check specs to see if it is what you want. Runs on USB-C
Another thing I like, my VPN provider (ProtonVPN) let’s me export a file, then I uploaded to the router. So. All traffic is over vpn

 

[Graybeard-MGRV]

Many switches and routers actually run off 12v DC but are powered through a 120V AC power supply that converts to 12v DC. Here is the router that I bought from Amazon and is working great.
TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router (Archer A7) -Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Router

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I edited my post before I saw your reply. So, if the router has 12 volt input from the wall wart, is it as simple as cutting off the wall wart and splicing it to 12 volts?

 

[MoHoRV]

Hi

So I wanted my router central in the RV. So, I ran a cat6 cable from my hold ( where everything is installed)- it comes out behind tv So. I spliced these usb to the radio power ( located above TV) - so no 110v conversions

[Upgraded]2Pcs 12V/24V USB Outlet with Voltmeter& ON/Off Switch, Quick Charge 3.0 Dual USB Power Outlet, Waterproof Fast Charge USB Charger Socket DIY Kit for Car Boat Marine (2 Pack) https://a.co/d/5pnUCT9

 

[alias100]

So, if the router has 12 volt input from the wall wart, is it as simple as cutting off the wall wart and splicing it to 12 volts?

Yes, that is the way I did it and it is working for me with the TP-Link router linked by [MENTION=51252]COGrandDes[/MENTION].

 

[COGrandDes]

I edited my post before I saw your reply. So, if the router has 12 volt input from the wall wart, is it as simple as cutting off the wall wart and splicing it to 12 volts?

Yes---as noted. It's totally that easy. That router is super powerful too even with it placed in my front compartment. It has full signal to any devices in the back family room of my camper and I didn't have to run any cables or cut the Starlink Factory Ethernet proprietary cable. Super easy!

 

[SilentService]

What router are you using that can also run off of 12 volts? Is it multi wan capable. Can I take any router that has an input voltage of 12 volts from its wall wart and simply cut off the wall wart and wire it in to a 12 volt line?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JD7F7G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's on sale now on Amazon. Cut the cord just before the 110 connector. When you separate the negative and positive wire, the side with the faint white dashes is your positive wire.

 

[COGrandDes]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JD7F7G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's on sale now on Amazon. Cut the cord just before the 110 connector. When you separate the negative and positive wire, the side with the faint white dashes is your positive wire.

It's a great router for the sale price.....I've been very happy with it....

 

[alias100]

I am the one who started this thread. I had it working on 12v but there were some issues where I was not able to connect at all, then an hour later could connect. I think the problem was the inexpensive 12 v to 48v converter and the inexpensive POE Injector. I am now using these:

New 12v to 48v converter: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1741834467...-856d-e2472d9809e6|iid:1|vlpname:vlp_homepage

New POE injector: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BX74T2T5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This POE injector also accounts for Starlink's non-standard pinouts so when you modify the cable that comes from the dish and plugs into the inverter you use the standard T586B pinout, and you can use a standard, non-modified ethernet cable from the inverter to the router.

Each of them cost about $80, but they appear to be much better made (the converter allows you to adjust the output up to 56 volts) and have eliminated the problems. If you are using the original pieces and they are working, great! If you, like me, are having problems you may want to consider throwing some more money at the setup. Since a lot of the issues I have read about online seem to be power related, I would suggest trying the new converter first, then moving to the POE injector if you still have issues.

I have enjoyed seeing all the pictures of your setups, and hope they are working well for you.

Edited post for clarity.