Converter update - Transcend Xplor 321BH

jimrex62

Advanced Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2015
Messages
43
Location
Houston, Tx
Happy fall for those of you actually experiencing the season!

Our first trip of the 24-25 season started off with the battery dying around 3AM after a mostly successful towing trip. Once I had a functioning brain, I determined from what I could read on the forum that the shore power wasn't powering the converter. I bought an automotive battery charger and was able to complete the trip. After reading another post, I felt that I could replace the converter myself, and was able to remove it today and do a bench test. It's working at home with a 27 group battery attached as load.

So, I'm expecting that either the 120v 15 amp breaker is shot or the receptacle on the back of the power panel has an issue. I can't put it in shop until May, so I will just run a short 14/3 ga extension cord to power the converter, bypassing the power panel receptacle. The fact that I attached a battery charger directly to battery and all 12VDC devices inside worked proeprly leads me to rule out any wiring or fuse issues. I'm limited with what I can do when the unit is at lot as there is no electrical supply.

Both panel and converter are WFCO - converter is WFCO 9855-AD and I'm just using regular SLA battery.
 
Good troubleshooting there. I think I might just keep using the extension cord and leave it plugged into another AC outlet. On the other hand I think I might figure out what is wrong with the outlet on the back of the power panel just to make sure you don't have a loose power wire in there somewhere on the bad AC outlet.
Sometimes it's loose buss bars screws on the power panel . Other times it's those bad crimp style RV AC outlets.
 
yeah, good point on checking the outlet and breaker connections. I wish that I had a way to connect unit to shore power while at lot. Do some more complete testing.

if the panel proves bad, I might just wait until we stop using trailer in 3 years or so and sell it as is.
 
You have done the troubleshooting on the technical part. A bad panel is unlikely and checking the breaker and outlet are low tech. I expect you can resolve this easily.
 
If you want to check it out why not take a generator out to where it is parked
yes, I was considering ways to check it out. I sold my portable gennie awhile back when we got the 18kv whole house generator. Our neighbor has one, so I might take that out when I return with tested converter.
 
Happy fall for those of you actually experiencing the season!

Our first trip of the 24-25 season started off with the battery dying around 3AM after a mostly successful towing trip. Once I had a functioning brain, I determined from what I could read on the forum that the shore power wasn't powering the converter. I bought an automotive battery charger and was able to complete the trip. After reading another post, I felt that I could replace the converter myself, and was able to remove it today and do a bench test. It's working at home with a 27 group battery attached as load.

So, I'm expecting that either the 120v 15 amp breaker is shot or the receptacle on the back of the power panel has an issue. I can't put it in shop until May, so I will just run a short 14/3 ga extension cord to power the converter, bypassing the power panel receptacle. The fact that I attached a battery charger directly to battery and all 12VDC devices inside worked proeprly leads me to rule out any wiring or fuse issues. I'm limited with what I can do when the unit is at lot as there is no electrical supply.

Both panel and converter are WFCO - converter is WFCO 9855-AD and I'm just using regular SLA battery.
wait..... you have 120v to power a charger? Just get a power adapter to go from 20amp to 30 or 50 amp and power your shore cable. Then you can test/measure the power panel inside and the associated wiring to your converter.
 
wait..... you have 120v to power a charger? Just get a power adapter to go from 20amp to 30 or 50 amp and power your shore cable. Then you can test/measure the power panel inside and the associated wiring to your converter.
Larry, yes that's an option as well. As I don't own or want to buy a generator or portable power inverter, I'll just do a basic continuity tests on the only things left to be tested: the 120v breaker, it's wiring, and the 120v receptacle using my digital meter.
 
UPDATE:
- bench tested converter with spare battery; worked great
- reinstalled converter and relocated power cord to another outlet; did not work
- removed power to battery and performed a continuity test on the frame mounted thermal overload and 30Amp inline fuse; both good
- solar will power fridge and charge battery when main isolation switch is in use
- everything works as designed if I use an automotive charger connected directly to battery

There is nothing left that I can check without removing the undercarriage cover material, so at this point I will just keep using the trailer as above until I get rid of it down the road.

Without a factory wiring diagram, I have no idea what else can be blocking the shore power\converter voltage from making it to the battery.

Also was wondering if the bench test itself wasn’t a real life simulation. Perhaps the converter does OK with just a battery for a load but with everything else it just can’t handle it.
 
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Sounds to me like your converter is bad. You don't need a spare battery to bench test the converter. Basically just plug the converter into A/C power and measure the DC output. Should be something like 13 VDC. The power converters are designed to both charge the battery and also help run the 12 VDC circuits. Put another way, you could remove your battery and as long as your power converter is working everything 12 VDC will function.
 
Sounds to me like your converter is bad. You don't need a spare battery to bench test the converter. Basically just plug the converter into A/C power and measure the DC output. Should be something like 13 VDC. The power converters are designed to both charge the battery and also help run the 12 VDC circuits. Put another way, you could remove your battery and as long as your power converter is working everything 12 VDC will function.
Actually, I forgot to list that troubleshooting step from previous camping trip. The measured output was only 12.2 or so and was streadily dropping while on shore power. I will go back and add that.

Thanks for the reminder - looking more and more like a replacement is needed come April bonus time!
 
cleaned up earlier post for clarity:
- Early November I removed converter for bench test at home with spare battery; seemed to eventuly charge battery

Test done in November whiile camping with shore power
- reinstalled converter using panel outlet and the measured DC output was only 12.2 or so and was streadily dropping while on shore power
- relocated power cord to another outlet; no change
- all 120v circuits and 12VDC systems works as designed if I use an automotive charger connected directly to battery
- solar will power fridge and charge battery when main isolation switch is in use

Today while in lot with no access to shore power:
- removed power to battery and performed a continuity test on the frame mounted thermal overload and 30Amp inline fuse; both good

As TXkmpr suggested, I did measure the converter output back while troublshooting with access to shore power. It was barely over 12VDC regardless of where I plugged it in, which during bench test it was over 13VDC. That indicates a failing converter that can't handle full load an needs to be replaced.
 
Maybe an option is to order a new converter from Amazon and install it and see if that fixes your problem and if not, you can return it.
 
Decided on this non-WFCO branded that most likely is what’s under the brand label:


1736870308129.png
 
In case you ever want to go Lithium, maybe you should get a lithium capable model, maybe powermax
We are just occasional weekenders at Texas state parks. I’d like to stop glamping in 3-4 years and sell truck and camper, so most likely won’t go that route.
 

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