Converting to dual Li time 200 AH batteries. I have a 2019 momentum toy hauler.

[Pete johnson]

Converting to 2 LiTime 12v 200AH “self heating” batteries rated for winter usage. Where do I find the charger at to see if it is compatible with the lithium batteries? Bought the 5th wheel used. Is this just a plug and play conversion?

 

[18CrewDually]

I'd list the model of Momentum. My 415G has it behind the wall in the basement so you have unscrew and remove the carpeted plywood to get at it.

 

[triplethreat]

Converting to 2 LiTime 12v 200AH “self heating” batteries rated for winter usage. Where do I find the charger at to see if it is compatible with the lithium batteries? Bought the 5th wheel used. Is this just a plug and play conversion?

With it being a 2019 model, I'd almost guarantee that it's NOT a LFP charger. It will still charge those batteries though, but usually they will only get to about ~80% State of Charge because the converter/charger doesn't put out enough voltage to get the LFP batteries to 100% SOC.

 

[RickLight]

When we went LFP the goal was to minimize generator hours. So along with max batteries I went with a max charger. Look at how the charger is powered. My 75A charger draws about 10A and I wish I went bigger.

Some charger/converters are built into the electrical panel, some are detached. Look up the panel model specs for some good info. Probably from DISTRIBUTION PANELS – WFCO Technologies

 

[Butcher]

Whatever you decide, I chose to get the largest converter I could put in [without any major mods].

My stock was the 55A, then I went to a PowerMax 100A. I had to swap out the circuit breaker because it would trip after about 20 minutes [full charging]. I had some issues with that one and went to a RecPro 125A. The issue with the 125A is that the standard 15A plugin at the house would trip.

The larger the converter, the faster you can charge up your batteries. Other than that, I see no purpose to go bigger. If you are like me [let's hope you are not] you will not go ape and buy more batteries. I now have 1200ah and it was worth the money for a high capacity converter.

 

[RickLight]

Most distribution panels only have a 15A outlet to power a converter, and many converters come with 15A plugs.

I have found it odd that the manufacturers don't list the maximum draw on their websites. Call and ask!

 

[dryfly]

Whatever you decide, I chose to get the largest converter I could put in [without any major mods].

My stock was the 55A, then I went to a PowerMax 100A. I had to swap out the circuit breaker because it would trip after about 20 minutes [full charging]. I had some issues with that one and went to a RecPro 125A. The issue with the 125A is that the standard 15A plugin at the house would trip.

The larger the converter, the faster you can charge up your batteries. Other than that, I see no purpose to go bigger. If you are like me [let's hope you are not] you will not go ape and buy more batteries. I now got 1200ah now and it was worth the money for a high capacity converter.

What size battery bank are you charging with that 125 amp charger? Lithium?

 

[triplethreat]

What size battery bank are you charging with that 125 amp charger? Lithium?

He said that he has 1200AH worth of batteries

 

[dryfly]

He said that he has 1200AH worth of batteries

OK. I missed that above.

 

[Butcher]

Most distribution panels only have a 15A outlet to power a converter, and many converters come with 15A plugs.

I know I am not like most, but the stock WFCO panel I have has the converter plug rated to 20A. Sure, GD put a 15A breaker and I probably would too since the stock converter should not consume anywhere close to that.

The converter plug connects right to the breaker so no wiring mods too.

I bet that all RV's that take the 50A cord has a power distribution panel with a 20A rated converter plug. Certainly worth taking a peak.

 

[huntindog]

Mine did as well

 

[RickLight]

You're ahead of the game if you can tell the difference between 15A & 20A outlets.

 

[Butcher]

It says 20A on the receptacle. I want to say it's some type of cast ceramic material, not plastic. I measured the little pigtail wire, it's 12 gauge wire too. I swear I posted a picture of it in the past. I certainly could be mistaken.

I was not going to just throw in a 20A breaker in a circuit rated for 15A.

 

[RickLight]

Then try to get a 20A plug on the converter.

 

[Butcher]

I think you are overthinking this.

The 125A converter I have has a 15A 'style' plug in. You could plug it into a 15A receptacle, but if that receptacle is on a 15A circuit, the breaker will do it's job.

I have never measured the full load current on my converter, but just with the rules of electricity, it's got to consume more than 15A. I highly doubt that the converter company under engineered the cord.

I believe the converter receptacle in the RV looks like the typical 15A 'style' but it's rated to 20A [I could be wrong, I do not recall if it has the 15A/20A style]. Since the converter cord has a 15A style plug in and the receptacle can accept that 15A style plug in, I think I am more than good to handle 20A and be within code.

Of course, there are others here that know code more than me [which is probably everyone, since I am not an electrician], someone will chime in saying I'm just a butcher and I should be ignored.

I do feel comfortable that the entire circuit can handle a 20A load. The circuit is dedicated to one device too.

 

[triplethreat]

I think you are overthinking this.

The 125A converter I have has a 15A 'style' plug in. You could plug it into a 15A receptacle, but if that receptacle is on a 15A circuit, the breaker will do it's job.

I have never measured the full load current on my converter, but just with the rules of electricity, it's got to consume more than 15A. I highly doubt that the converter company under engineered the cord.

I believe the converter receptacle in the RV looks like the typical 15A 'style' but it's rated to 20A [I could be wrong, I do not recall if it has the 15A/20A style]. Since the converter cord has a 15A style plug in and the receptacle can accept that 15A style plug in, I think I am more than good to handle 20A and be within code.

Of course, there are others here that know code more than me [which is probably everyone, since I am not an electrician], someone will chime in saying I'm just a butcher and I should be ignored.

I do feel comfortable that the entire circuit can handle a 20A load. The circuit is dedicated to one device too.

Your converter/charger data says that the max. AC current is 17 amps. If that's the case, I'm not sure why they would have put a 15A plug on it, knowing that it would likely be plugged into.........yep, a 15A recept.

 

[poohbear]

Ok smart guys. I want to upgrade my 1 battery to 200AH lithium before it goes kaput. Should I do (1) 200AH or (2) 100AH in parallel ? Electrically does it make any difference in how long you have power at a specific amp draw.
Our 21 397TH has a converter Li capable . No plans for an inverter now BUT am seriously considering the JC 12V mod to the nevercold 2118. Also which brands are recommended ?

 

[triplethreat]

Ok smart guys. I want to upgrade my 1 battery to 200AH lithium before it goes kaput. Should I do (1) 200AH or (2) 100AH in parallel ? Electrically does it make any difference in how long you have power at a specific amp draw.
Our 21 397TH has a converter Li capable . No plans for an inverter now BUT am seriously considering the JC 12V mod to the nevercold 2118. Also which brands are recommended ?

Disclaimer......I don't claim to be a smart guy, but here are some facts to be aware of. In the case of the two 100s vs. one 200 amp hour as with anything, there will be some pros and cons.

Using two will mean that if one of the batteries fail (they will be connected in parallel), you can simply disconnect the failed one and continue to have at least some power from the good one. However, sometimes the smaller batteries will have a BMS that does not allow for full current flow. So if it's a 100AH battery, it may (or may not) be restricted to some lesser amount of current....say 50 amps or 75 amps. Personally, I would NOT buy one that restricts the current flow to some lesser value. A 100AH battery should be capable of providing 100 amps for one hour.
The same thing could be possible with a larger, say 200AH battery where the BMS only allows up to a certain lesser current. That is something you would obviously need to find out before you purchased the battery or batteries. It's also likely that one 200AH battery is going to have a smaller footprint than two of the 100AH batteries, thus more room for another one if you found the need...like maybe an inverter. If the 200AH battery fails, you are simply out of 12VDC power, other than what the Converter/Charger can supply when the trailer is on shore power or the generator is running and supplying power to the converter/charger.
Two batteries vs. one battery is just double the amount of possible failure points.....but the advantage is what I mentioned above....if one fails, you can use the other one.

 

[poohbear]

triple threat thanks. this is the only RV I've ever owned that only had one battery and we've had 4 others beginning in 1979.
the Li battery is what I want to do for longevity but at going on 76 it may be cheaper/easier to go flooded cell and let the next owner do Lithium upgrade but the $ on li isn't that much greater which is adding to the choices.

 

[Butcher]

If that's the case, I'm not sure why they would have put a 15A plug on it......

I don't know the reason either. But even if you did, the 15A breaker would go before there was any damage. No worst than using a 15A adapter for your 30A/50A cable.

One reason is, if I am correct, is that most power distribution panels have a 15A style receptacle [and rated to 20A]. By selling the 125A converter with a plug that would not plug in your RV, would not be a good selling feature.

Again, I am hoping the Electrical guru's can share their knowledge about electrical codes.