Coroplast coming down for inspection - 377MBS

BWSTGDS

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Dec 19, 2023
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102
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
I began pulling down the coroplast initially to route a communication cable from the inverter/charger to the kitchen where I want to move the remote monitor. Also hoped to inspect a "repair" to a leak the PO said was fixed, but I could still see evidence of hydraulic fluid at the spot. The coroplast was reinstalled very poorly, with random screws and aluminum straps - not good. I will be fixing this before the rig moves again.

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Kitchen slide ram leak

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Also noted the two ducts that feed the kitchen island were not providing much airflow. The reason became obvious on inspection: Both are partially crushed, and one is torn open. The wiring is routed pretty well down here, but the insulation is haphazard - will need to arrange and add a bit more.

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For the previous 3 owners of my rig, this ducting has been underperforming, and could have been corrected. I think if I was buying new, I would want a visual inspection of this area before the coroplast is buttoned up, because it can hide so much.
 
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Yes, 1st owner was an RV tech, travelled the country for a year. 2nd owner brought it from NY to WA over several months, and added the disc brakes. 3rd owner I bought it from travelled the west coast as a utility lineman. The rig has seen quite a bit of use in 5 years.
 
A section of the coroplast is now removed, along with the cellular/reflectix and fiberglass insulation that was laying on top of it. I'll need to source some additional underbelly material, so I can terminate it at a floor joist, instead of out in space as it is now, near the freshwater tank.

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You can see the old electric brake wiring - I think I might re-purpose/extend it to the rear of the trailer for back-up lights.
 
Agree on the visual inspection. My rig had the same issues with the ducting. Took it to the dealer twice and was told that the air flow was within specs. Asked what the spec was (CFM) and the dealer refused to reply. Called GD and was told it was out of warranty but after a couple of conversations and sending pictures they agreed to have the dealer take another look at the situation. After dropping the coloplast they found the ducting was crushed in several places, had holes in it and was routed with extra turns and much longer than necessary. After the repair things are working much better.
 
Slowly getting the coroplast back in place. This is the section between the drop frame and the axles. I replaced the insulation with expanded foam with a reflective liner - some extra I had from insulating the shop. 1-1/2" thick where there was room, and 1/2" thick under the tanks.

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I was able to reuse the reflectix material sandwiched between the new insulation and the coroplast. Now to fix the hydraulic leak from one of the stabilizer jacks, and this last section can be put back. RecPro shipped me 10ft of additional belly material 77" wide, to replace the damaged material I removed.

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Always feels better to get your own eyes on things and do it the way you want. And yes, even on new units, pull the coraplast down and find the kinked and/or torn heat ducts. They just don't care that much when they put these things together. Similar to caulking on the roof.
 
I could not figure out how to better route the hose that was partially squished, but did repair the other hose with the hole in it - put an elbow there with good results.

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Also noted the 3 hose connections at the end of the furnace have different flow rates - the one on the right had less than the center and left ports. I put the kitchen island hoses on those two positions, and put the den on the lower flow. Testing this showed better airflow to the island than before, based on my subjective hand feel. We'll give it a try.
 
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I could not figure out how to better route the hose that was partially squished, but did repair the other hose with the hole in it - put an elbow there with good results.

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Also noted the 3 hose connections at the end of the furnace have different flow rates - the one on the left had less than the center and right ports. I put the kitchen island hoses on those two positions, and put the den on the lower flow. Testing this showed better airflow to the island than before, based on my subjective hand feel. We'll give it a try.

That's a great solution. In our model the furnace is under the dinette. The vent for the front area is under a cabinet on the other side of the other dinette seat, which means the duct goes down from the furnace under the floor, curves around the fresh water tank, then back up through the floor and out the vent. Very little air was pushed out that vent. The back half of the RV was very warm while the front half was cold. I put a "T" in the duct coming off the furnace and added a vent straight out the side of the dinette seat. I left the other duct connected to go down through the floor. It now pushes lots more air straight into the front area while the rear still gets plenty of heat as well. Problem solved. As owners of these rigs, we have to find lots of our own solutions, and some make one wonder how they manage to complicate the design as they sometimes do.
 
Could use advice on what to do about this kitchen slide hydraulic cylinder leak noted when I dropped the coroplast. Here's the pic again

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I wiped it clean, then ran a couple of experiments. After closing the valves for the bunkroom and dining slides, I operated the kitchen slide in and out 4 times. Then checked this area of the cylinder. A drip had started to form, coming from the ram seal.

Wiped it clean again and ran the slide in until it stopped, but held the switch until the breaker opened - about 5-6 seconds to build pressure. No leaks evident when I did this. Tried this with the slide all the way extended as well. No drip. So the leak happens over time as the ram is extended and retracted.

Looking at the ram seals on the other slides, one is slightly damp, and the other is dry.

That seal does not look serviceable with the cylinder in place. Wondering what to do.
 
Could use advice on what to do about this kitchen slide hydraulic cylinder leak noted when I dropped the coroplast. Here's the pic again

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I wiped it clean, then ran a couple of experiments. After closing the valves for the bunkroom and dining slides, I operated the kitchen slide in and out 4 times. Then checked this area of the cylinder. A drip had started to form, coming from the ram seal.

Wiped it clean again and ran the slide in until it stopped, but held the switch until the breaker opened - about 5-6 seconds to build pressure. No leaks evident when I did this. Tried this with the slide all the way extended as well. No drip. So the leak happens over time as the ram is extended and retracted.

Looking at the ram seals on the other slides, one is slightly damp, and the other is dry.

That seal does not look serviceable with the cylinder in place. Wondering what to do.

Other will likely chime in but I believe that the only thing to do is to replace it with the same part from Lippert. I have heard but not confirmed that some hydraulic shops can service and replace the seal but unless someone else chimes in that they have done this I think these are not serviceable and you need to replace it.

Rob
 
I'll see about calling them - I should start establishing a relationship with them anyway.

This weep of fluid is very slow. I might figure out a way to divert the drip out the pass through hole in the I-beam so I can monitor it and wipe it occasionally. It has been dripping on the coroplast for a long time and made a mess. The cylinder otherwise works fine, so would rather not replace and endure that hassle/expense.

I could repurpose the heat shields from some exhaust uppipes I replaced on my 7.3L diesel to make a sloped tray that can be zip tied to the cylinder and just poke out the I-beam hole, if cut to length.

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I gave Lippert customer service a call today and confirmed the seals are not serviceable - they recommended replacement. At some point I'll price one of these cylinders out, but for now, going with plan B.

After some trimming around the cylinder fittings, and cutting to length, the heat shield has now become a half pipe, routing any seal weeping to the outside of the belly. It's pretty easy to inspect when the slide is closed, right above one of the tires.

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Not doubting Lippert customer service, but have you checked with a good hydraulic shop? I'd get a second opinion. :) Unless the new ones are really reasonable, which considering they're from Lippert, seems unlikely. :)
 
Honestly it's not worth it to me to pursue further. Ready to get the rig buttoned up at this point. I've been working on it since I bought it in December. I will monitor the drip over the summer, and make a decision in the fall on whether to pull it apart or leave it. I think it will be fine.

A bit of a twist with the coroplast I purchased from RecPro. The website said the width was 77", but what I got was 81.75". The length was correct at 10ft. Kinda sucks to have to trim it down width-wise. I need a 70" long piece to patch the part I removed, so it lines up with places to screw it in place all the way around.

Spoke with RecPro customer service today, and they are going to make it right if they can - they were surprised it was wider.

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Honestly it's not worth it to me to pursue further. Ready to get the rig buttoned up at this point. I've been working on it since I bought it in December. I will monitor the drip over the summer, and make a decision in the fall on whether to pull it apart or leave it. I think it will be fine.

A bit of a twist with the coroplast I purchased from RecPro. The website said the width was 77", but what I got was 81.75". The length was correct at 10ft. Kinda sucks to have to trim it down width-wise. I need a 70" long piece to patch the part I removed, so it lines up with places to screw it in place all the way around.

Spoke with RecPro customer service today, and they are going to make it right if they can - they were surprised it was wider.

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I think you have found a great solution at this time. Please keep in mind that hydraulic cylinders need to be a matched pair in an dual situation. I suggest you match and boar and stroke length that matches the OEM cylinder and if replacing get a matching Lippert set up, or order a matching set from a reliable source that can be serviced in the future. I have learned this the hard way on my hay equipment and loader. Any good source of hydraulic cylinder dealer can help you. Do a search - especially withe AGG dealers.
Hope this helps

Safe travels
 
Honestly it's not worth it to me to pursue further. Ready to get the rig buttoned up at this point. I've been working on it since I bought it in December. I will monitor the drip over the summer, and make a decision in the fall on whether to pull it apart or leave it. I think it will be fine.

A bit of a twist with the coroplast I purchased from RecPro. The website said the width was 77", but what I got was 81.75". The length was correct at 10ft. Kinda sucks to have to trim it down width-wise. I need a 70" long piece to patch the part I removed, so it lines up with places to screw it in place all the way around.

Spoke with RecPro customer service today, and they are going to make it right if they can - they were surprised it was wider.

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[MENTION=59081]BWSTGDS[/MENTION] I was in your exact situation. Just install with in edge true ON ONE SIDE and when done, trim the excess with a utility knife along the long edge. Do not trim ahead of time. The excess on the over hang will be your friend to streach in place. Trim when everything is installed.

Hope the tip helps and safe travels.

PS - if you support the center of the coroplast at the center it is easier to pull everything in place.
 
The reason I wanted it pre-trimmed was because the section I am replacing is over the axles - hangers and stuff in the way. Otherwise, I see what you are saying - normally the overhang would be easy to trim.

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Recpro checked their stock and, as expected, it was all at the wider width. They offered me a full refund with return of the material, or I could keep it and get a $30 credit. I did the latter. Very nice of them.
 

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