Riverbug
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For those interested in a comparison of building your own LFP batteries vs buying off-the-shelf, thought I would share current info based on my new battery build (for my boat). Although I'm pricing this out for a boat, the comparisons apply for RV configurations as well. This is based on a 36V trolling motor. I chose to build a single 36V battery rather than three 12V wired in series. Saves on needing two additional BMS', cabling/terminals, and it's managing one battery with 12 cells vs 3 batteries with 12 cells.
Frankly, the price nowadays depending on brand of off-the-shelf battery has become cheaper than building my own. However, I enjoy the process, I know exactly what I'm getting, I get to choose all the components (and therefore capacities for cells, BMS', internal cabling, etc.), and I know how to test, troubleshoot, manage, and replace parts if needed. Here's the comparison:
DIY
12 EVE 105AH Grade A Cells = $799 (includes MN tax & shipping, buss bars, bolts)
JK 200A BMS = $105 (includes MN tax & shipping) (BMS includes dual temp probes, low/high temp cutoff, Bluetooth, heat buss, phone app for full control of all BMS settings, etc.)
Supplies for Battery Box = $60 (includes PVC board, box terminals & boots, cable & terminals)
Total = $965
Off-the-Shelf
2 Pack, Li Time 50AH 36V Trolling Motor Batteries = $832 free shipping, tax not included
(Priced 2 batteries to be wired in parallel for equivalent 100AH)
or
3 Pack, Li Time 100AH 12V Trolling Motor Batteries = $891 free shipping, tax not included
(Priced 3 batteries to be wired in series for equivalent 36V)
Total = $832 (since I would choose 2 50AH 36V batteries over 3 12V batteries)
So, I find that I would have saved over $130 by purchasing off-the-shelf. That said compromises would be made; Li Time does not currently have a 36V 100AH battery. Their batteries do not all have bluetooth and/or heat options, etc. I would need to break down the batteries to determine what exactly is inside for cells, BMS, cabling, etc., but that could certainly be done.
If a person (like me) really enjoys the process of planning, building, programming the BMS, etc., DIY is still a good way to go. But it isn't the cheapest any longer like it was a few years ago. And I assume that trend will continue. And a final note: Li Time batteries are not the cheapest out there by any means. I use them here because they are the low/mid-cost brand that consistently passes capacity and breakdown tests and has proven reliable (by the likes of Will Prowse and others). If I were to buy right now, it would likely be that brand. But there are certainly many less expensive options out there.
Not sure if anyone will find this interesting or useful, but thought I'd share just in case.
Frankly, the price nowadays depending on brand of off-the-shelf battery has become cheaper than building my own. However, I enjoy the process, I know exactly what I'm getting, I get to choose all the components (and therefore capacities for cells, BMS', internal cabling, etc.), and I know how to test, troubleshoot, manage, and replace parts if needed. Here's the comparison:
DIY
12 EVE 105AH Grade A Cells = $799 (includes MN tax & shipping, buss bars, bolts)
JK 200A BMS = $105 (includes MN tax & shipping) (BMS includes dual temp probes, low/high temp cutoff, Bluetooth, heat buss, phone app for full control of all BMS settings, etc.)
Supplies for Battery Box = $60 (includes PVC board, box terminals & boots, cable & terminals)
Total = $965
Off-the-Shelf
2 Pack, Li Time 50AH 36V Trolling Motor Batteries = $832 free shipping, tax not included
(Priced 2 batteries to be wired in parallel for equivalent 100AH)
or
3 Pack, Li Time 100AH 12V Trolling Motor Batteries = $891 free shipping, tax not included
(Priced 3 batteries to be wired in series for equivalent 36V)
Total = $832 (since I would choose 2 50AH 36V batteries over 3 12V batteries)
So, I find that I would have saved over $130 by purchasing off-the-shelf. That said compromises would be made; Li Time does not currently have a 36V 100AH battery. Their batteries do not all have bluetooth and/or heat options, etc. I would need to break down the batteries to determine what exactly is inside for cells, BMS, cabling, etc., but that could certainly be done.
If a person (like me) really enjoys the process of planning, building, programming the BMS, etc., DIY is still a good way to go. But it isn't the cheapest any longer like it was a few years ago. And I assume that trend will continue. And a final note: Li Time batteries are not the cheapest out there by any means. I use them here because they are the low/mid-cost brand that consistently passes capacity and breakdown tests and has proven reliable (by the likes of Will Prowse and others). If I were to buy right now, it would likely be that brand. But there are certainly many less expensive options out there.
Not sure if anyone will find this interesting or useful, but thought I'd share just in case.