Deader than dead battery

[1carguy]

Just went out to the storage to pick up some stuff from my 4 month old 2021 Reflection 31MB and was surprised to find I had a dead battery. I stored it about 10 days ago with a fully charged battery. The 12v kill switch key was off and removed so I didn't leave anything on that I'm aware of. I think the only thing that stays hot with the kill switch off is the leveling system and the smoke/CM detector....right?
I recharged it and will check it again in a few days. Anything else obvious I should check?

 

[JustUs&doggo]

3 to 4 days will kill the battery. Best to disconnect the battery.

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[livinthelife]

Just went out to the storage to pick up some stuff from my 4 month old 2021 Reflection 31MB and was surprised to find I had a dead battery. I stored it about 10 days ago with a fully charged battery. The 12v kill switch key was off and removed so I didn't leave anything on that I'm aware of. I think the only thing that stays hot with the kill switch off is the leveling system and the smoke/CM detector....right?
I recharged it and will check it again in a few days. Anything else obvious I should check?

Yes, no, maybe...... Some people have been surprised how much was after the battery disconnect that remains operational. It all depends on the person who made the connections on your rig, on that day.

It's best to disconnect (manually) one of the connections on the battery itself to insure nothing is draining it.

Hopefully, your battery can come back to life, draining them all the way down can damage them.


A good project for down time - remove the battery disconnect key and go around and check what's still getting juice. We're lucky, we have nothing connected with the kill switch out. Thanks to whoever set our rig up that way.

 

[SabreDriver]

My 2021 303RLS had a bunch of stuff powered with the kill switch off, including the motion sensor lights in the basement. Drained my battery in <10 days. I went back and put a true disconnect switch on the ground side, so I can just turn the knob in the front storage just above the battery and completely disconnect it without having to unscrew the top off the battery box every time I park it in storage. Best $25 I’ve spent in a long while. I just hope I haven’t trashed my house battery, and it lasts until I can swap it out for a Lithium and solar setup.


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[1carguy]

Thanks for the info. I'm surprised that it drained in just a week. I guess I've been lucky for the last 4 months but I'm not taking any chances so I'm going to install a kill switch near the battery box.

 

[MoonShadow_1911]

My 2021 303RLS had a bunch of stuff powered with the kill switch off, including the motion sensor lights in the basement. Drained my battery in <10 days. I went back and put a true disconnect switch on the ground side, so I can just turn the knob in the front storage just above the battery and completely disconnect it without having to unscrew the top off the battery box every time I park it in storage. Best $25 I’ve spent in a long while. I just hope I haven’t trashed my house battery, and it lasts until I can swap it out for a Lithium and solar setup.


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That's the same with my 2021 320MKS. I put the disconnect switch on the positive side of the batteries, in the battery compartment. It kills everything while in storage.

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[1carguy]

That's the same with my 2021 320MKS. I put the disconnect switch on the positive side of the batteries, in the battery compartment. It kills everything while in storage.

Positive side of the battery? For some reason, I thought that is should be on the negative side....or does it really matter>

 

[AZMike]

Since I have to store my rig at a storage facility, I remove my battery and take it home for fear of theft. Inconvenient, but it works for me.

 

[MoonShadow_1911]

That's the same with my 2021 320MKS. I put the disconnect switch on the positive side of the batteries, in the battery compartment. It kills everything while in storage.

Positive side of the battery? For some reason, I thought that is should be on the negative side....or does it really matter>

Positive was easier for me. When working on electrical, I DO remove the negative cable from the batteries, just in case my buffoon hands drop a wrench or something on the batteries, or on a positive feed line to ground (been there, done that; don't EVER want to do it again).

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[Jerryr]

Positive was easier for me. When working on electrical, I DO remove the negative cable from the batteries, just in case my buffoon hands drop a wrench or something on the batteries, or on a positive feed line to ground (been there, done that; don't EVER want to do it again).

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Same here. Positive side was easier so that’s where I installed the new cut off switch. It really doesn’t matter which cable you connect to.

When messing with battery cables it’s good practice to remove the negative first and when reinstalling cables I connect the negative last. That way when you have a wrench on the positive cable and accidentally having it touch any part of the vehicle it won’t weld the wrench to the frame.

 

[Dutchman2]

Same here. Positive side was easier so that’s where I installed the new cut off switch. It really doesn’t matter which cable you connect to.

When messing with battery cables it’s good practice to remove the negative first and when reinstalling cables I connect the negative last. That way when you have a wrench on the positive cable and accidentally having it touch any part of the vehicle it won’t weld the wrench to the frame.

1carguy,
Just installed a wire lead from the battery using the battery tender ring connections setup to the positive and negative posts. Then ordered a 3' cable extension off Amazon with battery tender connections. Drilled a hole in the side wall plate just in front of the drivers side front jack and installed the wire with a grommet in place to protect the wires. Then ran wires around propane bottle and wired tied it to the propane hose. With the open area under the propane tanks it made it very easy to connect the battery tender to maintain battery when in storage. Made for a very clean installation. No pulling batteries etc. when unit is in storage.

 

[1carguy]

Dutchman2 - that's a great set up, but I don't have power at my storage site to plug in my tender to keep the battery charged when in storage. My only choice will be to add another kill switch at the battery so nothing can draw from the battery.

 

[Bungy]

1carguy,
Just installed a wire lead from the battery using the battery tender ring connections setup to the positive and negative posts. Then ordered a 3' cable extension off Amazon with battery tender connections. Drilled a hole in the side wall plate just in front of the drivers side front jack and installed the wire with a grommet in place to protect the wires. Then ran wires around propane bottle and wired tied it to the propane hose. With the open area under the propane tanks it made it very easy to connect the battery tender to maintain battery when in storage. Made for a very clean installation. No pulling batteries etc. when unit is in storage.

Why can’t you use the onboard converter already in your trailer to keep the batteries topped off? 120v AC (which I assume you have) is plenty to run it while in storage, just need to get the proper dogbone adapter.

 

[RV Sailor]

Converter is not the greatest brand or amp battery charger usually plus if you have AGM/ wet cell it will only get to 85% when the batteries acceptance rate drops and won’t except bulk charge.

Especially critical in the tiny group 24/27 the RV dealers give you.

 

[Dutchman2]

I use the main battery disconnect to take the majority of the battery draw off the battery. The battery tender does a great job at maintaining full battery condition with the small remaining amp draw. I also use a surge protector as the power at our storage facility is sketchy during storms. I would hate to have a voltage spike damage any of the electronics if connected to shore power and using the onboard converter to maintain the battery.

 

[Xlsmle]

If u dont have a source of power then your best option is to disconect a battery terminal. My situation is my trailer is stored in my rv garage and is plugged into a wall socket 24/7. My lead acid batteries have never run low on water for the 1.5 years i have used my 1920 22mle. Thats because the newer trailers have better chargers than my old trailer which i had to closely watch the battery water levels. It is surprising how much a battery is drained even when the battery shutoff on my trailer is turned off. Thats why i keep it plugged in with no issues.

 

[Blazerjohn]

I use two Trojan 6 volt batteries hooked in series and had to leave my fifth wheel for 10 days due to an emergency. Turned everything off except my domestic gas electric refrigerator and two full propane tanks. Refrigerator and freezer were full of food . Got back and frig was still cold and running

 

[Walker-MGRV]

I have always used a Quick disconnect on my negative post on all my batteries. Vehicles, boats and RV's. I find them to be the safest bet plus it makes a person check on their batteries once in a while.
Can find at auto parts store or Amazon if interested.

Negative post battery quick disconnect.

Hope this helps in the future

 

[rvhobo]

Become a full timer, you won't have that problem

 

[Lane Hog]

I'll make a pitch for solar here... my 130W roof mounted panel more than makes up for the parasitic drains. A single panel with a PWM or MPPT charge controller is a fairly cheap investment and you'll never have an unexpectedly dead battery unless it's truly dead from age or being drawn down too far. I figure the cost of not having to replace batteries as often has more than paid for the panel and charger.

There are also solar maintainers you can get which might work in your situation.