Dexter 4000 lb leaf springs review

Typically spring hanger pad holes should be a snug fit because this locates the axle on the spring and if the hole is oversized the axle can end up being out of alignment. I have made my own replacement center bolts for springs for years. Usually the round part of the spring center bolt faces the axle pad hole. The position of the bolt in the spring depends on whether the axle is spring over or spring under. The new dexter springs were set up for spring under, so I clamped the leaves together and removed the center bolt on the first spring. Well the nut stripped because the end of the center bolt was damaged and the bolt and nut are soft. I ended up cutting the nut off and found the threads on the bolt were metric and in a size I don't have. So, I took a grade 5 3/8 bolt and rounded the head on a grinder and tested it in the spring perch. At least a 5/8" hole, way too loose. So then I took a 3/8 nut and checked it for fit in the spring perch and it was a good fit. So I installed nut down on the other springs and bolt head down on the 3/8 bolt but I didn't grind the flats. Now it's time to cut up some 1 inch plate on my band saw to use as lift blocks and wait for my new ubolts to show up, probably next week sometime.

For others ordering springs be shure to inform the seller you want spring over axle configuration. They can be ordered either way. I believe this information is also on the axle tag, and if not there the build sheet I mention above.
 
Yeah, I know about the axle tag, but the trailer is at the storage place and don't know off the top of my head what brand they were. I've probably seen the tag, but can't remember whose they are. Considering they had those lousy Lippert Equaflex equalizers, I'm leaning toward Lippert 7,000 lb. rated axles. I'll have to do some checking at some point I imagine.

Howard - getting the tag information and the build sheet can be very important in case of a brake down. You can use the parts information shown to get the right parts, and not be guessing. I carry one in the trailer with me in the GD black folder and a spare at home in a folder with other trailer papers too.
 
Howard - getting the tag information and the build sheet can be very important in case of a brake down. You can use the parts information shown to get the right parts, and not be guessing. I carry one in the trailer with me in the GD black folder and a spare at home in a folder with other trailer papers too.
You're 100% correct, and I did have the info for our last trailer, but haven't done that for this one, and I've even been under there replacing the springs, and equalizers. :) And pulled the bearings and repacked them while I was at it, but didn't get the axle information. DOH. I do need it for the brake information though. Figuring everything will continue to work without problems is a good way to jinx yourself. :)
 
You're 100% correct, and I did have the info for our last trailer, but haven't done that for this one, and I've even been under there replacing the springs, and equalizers. :) And pulled the bearings and repacked them while I was at it, but didn't get the axle information. DOH. I do need it for the brake information though. Figuring everything will continue to work without problems is a good way to jinx yourself. :)

LOL Remember the old saying. If you don't have it you will need it, BUT, If you have it you wont need it.

Safe travels
 
My new longer 9 inch 9/16 ubolts showed up today. I went and bought 20 ft of 2x2x1/4 angle iron and welded it between the front, center and rear spring hangers. The front and rear locations I welded it to the outside of the hangers so that it ties them together. The center piece I welded in between the inside hangers in such a way I can get to the center bolt if needed. This should do a good job of stiffening up the hangers. I checked all of the hangers for cracks and didn't find any and non appeared bent either. Tomorrow I will add a 1 inch thick piece of 4 inch wide plate steel for use as a lift block. This should net me between 1 1/2 and 2 inches of lift to help the trailer run more level with my truck.
 
A follow up to the start of this thread. I reached out to Dexter tech support and sent them photos of the out of round spring eyes. I just received an email back from tech support telling me they would be forwarding my information to warranty and also the manufacturing plant and thanking me for my attention to detail and letting them know of a possible manufacturing issue. This speaks very well for Dexter and is what I expect when you spend top dollar for a product. I probably should have contacted Dexter first, because going to the retailer (Etrailer) isn't fair to them, they just sell the product and a replacement would have probably had the same issue. I look forward to seeing what their warranty dept has to offer. Stay tuned.
 
Last edited:
Well, I just got another reply from customer support at Dexter and he said that since I purchased the springs from Etrailer, he would not be able to replace them. He thanked me again for bringing the issue of the out of round spring eyes to his attention and he assured me he was going to pass the information on. I might go ahead and reach out to Etrailer again.
 
Well, I just got another reply from customer support at Dexter and he said that since I purchased the springs from Etrailer, he would not be able to replace them. He thanked me again for bringing the issue of the out of round spring eyes to his attention and he assured me he was going to pass the information on. I might go ahead and reach out to Etrailer again.
When I replaced the springs last year, I found the same problem with out of round spring eyes. I used a high quality 11/16" drill bit and drilled them out. It only took 3 or 4 seconds for each one and now the bronze bushings fit nicely. If you decide to dril them out make sure the drill is turning in the same direction that the spring eye is turned otherwise, the drill can hang up on the edge of the spring.
 
When I replaced the springs last year, I found the same problem with out of round spring eyes. I used a high quality 11/16" drill bit and drilled them out. It only took 3 or 4 seconds for each one and now the bronze bushings fit nicely. If you decide to dril them out make sure the drill is turning in the same direction that the spring eye is turned otherwise, the drill can hang up on the edge of the spring.

I should have thought about that first, but to be honest I have never tried to drill spring steel. My spring eyes were only egg shaped at the bottom, so taking a few thousanths off of the the I.D. wouldn't do much to clean up a .080 gap. Now, if I drilled them out to .750, it would have probably cleaned them up, but then I would have to custom source the bushings or build them. I have actually given thought to machining some bushings out of chrome moly steel. I really don't know why the bushings need to be bronze. All of the leaf spring trucks I have ever worked on within the last 40 years have steel liners that go over a steel bolt and the liner is encased in rubber. I took a good look at the springs that have been on the trailer for the past 5 years that I purchased and the bushings looked pretty good. A few spots where the outer edge of the bushing had cracked away, but for the most part the bushing was intact and the slop with a wet bolt was ok. I wouldn't have replaced those springs except they had gone flat and with my new dually truck the trailer was sitting low in the rear and now with the new springs and a one inch block it rides level.
 
When I replaced the springs last year, I found the same problem with out of round spring eyes. I used a high quality 11/16" drill bit and drilled them out. It only took 3 or 4 seconds for each one and now the bronze bushings fit nicely. If you decide to dril them out make sure the drill is turning in the same direction that the spring eye is turned otherwise, the drill can hang up on the edge of the spring.
The problem with that is that now you have spring eyes that are no longer the right size for the bushings. The bushings are supposed to be a light press fit, they shouldn't just slide in.
 
The problem with that is that now you have spring eyes that are no longer the right size for the bushings. The bushings are supposed to be a light press fit, they shouldn't just slide in.

I'm ok with a little slop. These springs just need to last till the end of summer when I'm able to replace them with made in USA springs from Alcon Spring in Grand Junction Colorado.
I'm also gonna ask them to use steel bushings in the spring eyes as [MENTION=6569]Nuffsaid[/MENTION] recommended.
 
The problem with that is that now you have spring eyes that are no longer the right size for the bushings. The bushings are supposed to be a light press fit, they shouldn't just slide in.

The replacement Dexters that GD sent me had the bushings 'pressed' in. They sent me six so I have two spares in the pass thru - the bushings are tight enough that they will not slide. In looking at the extra two springs, the eyes are circular (bolts slid in the bushings but with no slop). What I now think is that there is some side-to-side movement in the MORRyde shackles and a subsequent weakening of the CRE3000 from slight rotation. That has to put side loads on the front and rear hangers.
 
I just got an email from Etrailer. The email stated that Dexter doesn't warranty these replacement leaf springs! The email said that Etrailer offers a 30 day warranty. They said they could send a call tag for the springs. As much as I don't want to take the springs apart again, I think I will ask them to pick up the springs and refund my purchase price and I will get a set of custom springs made.
 
I was fully planning on returning these 4000 lb Dexter springs, so I started removing them today. I got one spring off and I was going to remove the bronze bushings I installed and after a couple of good whacks with a 4 lb hammer with my bushing removal tool, the bushing didn't budge. I scratched my head and said if it can withstand the blow of a big hammer it should last at least as long as the last set, so I reinstalled the spring and canceled the return from Etrailer.
 
These springs just need to last till the end of summer when I'm able to replace them with made in USA springs from Alcon Spring in Grand Junction Colorado.

Good idea.

I got these 4000# springs for my 349M in Sept 2022 and there has been a noticeable improvement in stability and ride. They've shown no signs of flattening out - which was the problem I had with the OEM China springs. Notice how they're wider than stock springs and the leaf clamp is functional rather than cosmetic.

I would ask Lew (at Alcan) what you should do for bushings, shackles, and bolts. He told me my CRE3000 components were just fine and installed bushings in my new springs to match.

https://www.alcanspring.com/

20230109_150041.jpg
 
Last edited:
Good idea.

I got these 4000# springs for my 349M in Sept 2022 and there has been a noticeable improvement in stability and ride. They've shown no signs of flattening out - which was the problem I had with the OEM China springs. Notice how they're wider than stock springs and the leaf clamp is functional rather than cosmetic.

I would ask Lew (at Alcan) what you should do for bushings, shackles, and bolts. He told me my CRE3000 components were just fine and installed bushings in my new springs to match.

https://www.alcanspring.com/

View attachment 49759

What did Alcan Spring charge you to make these springs?
 
What did Alcan Spring charge you to make these springs?

So, 1.5 years ago I got 4 custom springs (dimension & spring weight) with bushings, u-bolts, plates, nuts & washers, shipping ($100!) and tax and it was $1220.

I have dealt with cheap crap springs for many years. I have changed my own (broken) springs on the side of the road and have paid dearly to have my old 5th wheel towed a couple of times. The Alcan springs are way better than anything I've ever had .. I would have gladly paid more .. to avoid things like this.

20130413_072752.jpg
 
Last edited:
UPDATE: I contacted the warranty department at Dexter and sent them photos and proof that the springs were name brand Dexter springs with specific photos and this morning I got a wonderful reply. The reply stated that the spring eyes will always have a somewhat tear drop shape due to the manufacturing process and that Dexter has tolerances and then the email stated that Dexter would be happy to send me out 4 new springs with bronze bushings free of charge!!!!! That is customer service and why it pays to be a squeaky wheel.
 
Dexter lived up to their word and sent me 4 new 4000 lbs springs with bronze bushings installed. The sad news is that the eyes are still tear dropped and there is a gap between the bushing and the eye at the point that max load will be applied. I think I will do the JB weld trick on these too and keep them for spares.
 
I'm having the same problem as everyone else and looking to replace my leaf springs due to them flattening out. If you don't mind me asking what capacity axles do you have on your 349M?

I've been debating on going back with a made in the USA 6 leaf 3500lb spring on my 7000 lb axles vs upgrading to the 4000 lb spring which has been challenging to locate as many have noted.
 

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top Bottom