Dexter Brake inspection

Sportzfann

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2021
Posts
130
Location
Milwaukie Or.
I want to inspect my brakes while I’m installing the wet bolts,shackles and Morryde equalizers. I am also welding the V brackets to the hangers at this time.
I read in the Dexter EZ lube instructions that the seal needs to be replaced if the hub is removed, is this step only required when the bearings are removed? Didn’t see any posts on this subject.
In the Notes below talks about a new seal #5

Thanks Sportz

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JMO, but if you don't use the EZ-Lube "feature" then the seal can be replaced at your discretion. And honestly the EZ-Lube "feature" is solely a marketing ploy. IMO of course.
 
Technically the seal needs to be replaced anytime the hub is disassembled. Realistically many people get away with reusing them
 
When I Greased my bearings 2 years ago I ordered new seals. My brother (a mechanic and auto body repairman of over 50 years) asked why I was replacing the seals. I said because it was recommended by the manufacturer. His comment was, unless you damaged it when removing the hub, it's a waste of time and money. I agree with him (now). If you carefully remove the hub and don't bang it into anything it should be good.
 
When I Greased my bearings 2 years ago I ordered new seals. My brother (a mechanic and auto body repairman of over 50 years) asked why I was replacing the seals. I said because it was recommended by the manufacturer. His comment was, unless you damaged it when removing the hub, it's a waste of time and money. I agree with him (now). If you carefully remove the hub and don't bang it into anything it should be good.

Ok great I wondered if the seal would be damaged in some way, if I removed it, so I didn’t take the hub off yet. The axles/ brakes have a build date of 3/2021 so they should be in good shape but wanted to verify with an inspection.��
 
Ok great I wondered if the seal would be damaged in some way, if I removed it, so I didn’t take the hub off yet. The axles/ brakes have a build date of 3/2021 so they should be in good shape but wanted to verify with an inspection.��
An excellent plan. There's no way to guarantee that there is sufficient grease for the wheel bearings, without physically checking. Once you know, you can decide on your maintenance schedule. But don't put it off thinking the wheel bearings were well greased from the factory. Unfortunately, they often aren't.
 
Oh the good old days! I've worked on a lot of 40, 50,60,70s cars and trucks with drum brakes. Early days with 4 wheel drum brakes, 70s up most with front disc rear drums. Back in the day we would take the hub nut and washer off and remove the outer bearing, put the nut back on and pull the hub catching the rear inner bearing and it would pull the bearing out along with the rear seal. Repack the bearings and reuse the rear seal. Some of those rear hub drum seals were actually made out of real leather. You know, I don't recall ever replacing a wheel bearing in those old cars and trucks if wheel bearing maintenance was done on schedule. Of course back in the day oil changes and lube jobs, along with ignition points and tune ups were about every 3000 miles. Heck we didn't always use a 0.25 - 0.30 feeler gauge to adjust the ignition points, a foldover match book cover was about the same. We thought we were high tech if we had a dwell meter and the trapdoor on the distributor cap to adjust the ignition points with the engine running. That was a long time ago!

These days, obviously I don't do wheel bearings that way. When you remove the rear bearing to repack it, you have to remove the rear seal and you will damage it. A claw hammer works well removing the hub drum rear seal. hub/drum rear seals are cheap, replace them, good double lip seals keep the grease from getting past and contamination the brakes. I always carry new spare seals.
 
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Oh the good old days! I've worked on a lot of 40, 50,60,70s cars and trucks with drum brakes. Early days with 4 wheel drum brakes, 70s up most with front disc rear drums. Back in the day we would take the hub nut and washer off and remove the outer bearing, put the nut back on and pull the hub catching the rear inner bearing and it would pull the bearing out along with the rear seal. Repack the bearings and reuse the rear seal. Some of those rear hub drum seals were actually made out of real leather. You know, I don't recall ever replacing a wheel bearing in those old cars and trucks if wheel bearing maintenance was done on schedule. Of course back in the day oil changes and lube jobs, along with ignition points and tune ups were about every 3000 miles. Heck we didn't always use a 0.25 - 0.30 feeler gauge to adjust the ignition points, a foldover match book cover was about the same. We thought we were high tech if we had a dwell meter and the trapdoor on the distributor cap to adjust the ignition points with the engine running. That was a long time ago!

These days, obviously I don't do wheel bearings that way. When you remove the rear bearing to repack it, you have to remove the rear seal and you will damage it. A claw hammer works well removing the hub drum rear seal. hub/drum rear seals are cheap, replace them, good double lip seals keep the grease from getting past and contamination the brakes. I always carry new spare seals.

I will order a wheel bearing and some extra seals from Dexter to keep with me. I really want to see the brake pads and bearings, so I can be confident of the condition. Thanks ��
 
I will order a wheel bearing and some extra seals from Dexter to keep with me. I really want to see the brake pads and bearings, so I can be confident of the condition. Thanks ��

That's a good idea to carry spares. I carry an inner bearing and race as well as an outer bearing and race along with rear seals just in case.
For drum brakes, the brake material lining is glued on to the shoe. I had occasion on our right rear where the linings came loose from the shoe and just fell out when I took the drum off. Thats why its a good idea to pull the brake drums and inspect the brakes as least once a year.

It used to be with drum brake replacements you could buy a brand that had the lining material riveted to the shoe so it wouldn't come loose. However a lot of people didn't choose that option because if you wore down the lining material too far the rivets on the shoes would dig into the drum, then you would have to replace the drum or get it turned down. Nobody turns brake drums or disc brake rotors anymore.
 

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