Diagrams for wiring Residential Fridge running inverter

DragonDriver

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2020
Messages
116
I'm in the process of fixing the issue caused by my leaky NoCold fridge.
By the time I arrive at a campsite the darn thing has lost its "cool" and it takes hours to build it back up.
I DON'T want to use propane to keep it powered on the road. Yes ... I know ... there are many who do, however it is not recommended, AND it would invalidate my insurance.
I'm accomplishing the task in two steps, or phases and I would REALLY APPRECIATE getting your thoughts.

Phase I is connecting up a separate circuit for the NoCold refrig as shown below:
Inverter Wiring - Phase I.gif
Under this config I:
1) Shut down the Power Panel (before disconnecting from Shore Power)
2) Move the refrig plug to the Inverter-dedicated outlet
3) Then turn on the Inverter
4) drive away​

Phase II replaces the NoCold with a residential unit and hardwiring the Inverter into the existing circuits:
Inverter Wiring - Phase II.gif
Under Phase II:
1) Shut sown the Power Panel (before disconnecting from Shore Power)
2) For safety sake, flip converter breaker OFF
3) Turn on the Inverter
4) drive away​

Anything about this look "hinky?" Anything I'm missing??
 
A couple of things caught my attention from your diagrams. First, you're showing an AGM battery. That won't support your frig for very long, get at least 200 Ah of LiFePo4 batteries. Second, I'd want the transfer switch to handle the whole coach. The switch would choose shore power when you have it, and the inverter the rest of the time. You would need to shut down the converter/charger when on the inverter, but additional wiring would not be required.
 
I'm in the process of fixing the issue caused by my leaky NoCold fridge.
By the time I arrive at a campsite the darn thing has lost its "cool" and it takes hours to build it back up.
I DON'T want to use propane to keep it powered on the road. Yes ... I know ... there are many who do, however it is not recommended, AND it would invalidate my insurance.
I'm accomplishing the task in two steps, or phases and I would REALLY APPRECIATE getting your thoughts.

Phase I is connecting up a separate circuit for the NoCold refrig as shown below:
View attachment 51506
Under this config I:
1) Shut down the Power Panel (before disconnecting from Shore Power)
2) Move the refrig plug to the Inverter-dedicated outlet
3) Then turn on the Inverter
4) drive away​

Phase II replaces the NoCold with a residential unit and hardwiring the Inverter into the existing circuits:
View attachment 51507
Under Phase II:
1) Shut sown the Power Panel (before disconnecting from Shore Power)
2) For safety sake, flip converter breaker OFF
3) Turn on the Inverter
4) drive away​

Anything about this look "hinky?" Anything I'm missing??

If you use one of these inverters it would be a simpler system/operation https://www.renogy.com/2000w-12v-pu...h-ups-transfer-switch-and-built-in-bluetooth/. Our previous unit with a residential worked this way from the factory. Using an inverter with a built in transfer switch you won't need to be switching outlets or turning things on and off. The OEM inverter (and I assume this one is the same) plugs into an outlet and passes through AC automatically when on shore power and converts to the batteries when you unplug. You just wire the existing fridge outlet to the inverter (and any other that you may want to have run off the batteries) With this system you would also have power to the fridge if you lose power unexpectedly while at your site not your not around to switch it around. The only thing you need to make sure of is the inverter is turned on. I just left mine on all the time unless it was in storage between trips

If your only using it for travel days, an AGM battery may be fine as long as you get some power from you tow vehicle. I got about 7 amps from our '17 GMC. I would have a net loss of about 3 to 4 amp per hour while pulling. Adding a 100 or 200AH of lithium will greatly increase your reserve.
 
I did something very similar on my brother in-law’s Reflection 280RS. Originally, We were trying to power his 120v outdoor refrigerator while traveling. We ended up with the added bonus of being able to power both refrigerators. This was actually pretty simple to do. If I had it to do again, I would have used a 2000w inverter. Take a look at the video I made for him.

https://youtu.be/A0hYQjV3TAQ?si=nnh9jkAbBvrW4NxL
 
Last edited:
A couple of things caught my attention from your diagrams. First, you're showing an AGM battery. That won't support your frig for very long, get at least 200 Ah of LiFePo4 batteries. Second, I'd want the transfer switch to handle the whole coach. The switch would choose shore power when you have it, and the inverter the rest of the time. You would need to shut down the converter/charger when on the inverter, but additional wiring would not be required.

Since I'm only looking to power my reefer whilst driving, I think I'll be OK with our battery (it has RC of 200ah). We and SWMBO don't boondock and always overnight where there are hookups.
On your second point I always have the option to wire in the second leg of the distribution panel, and for that I'd have to build a battery. Good thoughts here, SoundSailor - thanks for the input!

If you use one of these inverters it would be a simpler system/operation https://www.renogy.com/2000w-12v-pu...h-ups-transfer-switch-and-built-in-bluetooth/. Our previous unit with a residential worked this way from the factory. Using an inverter with a built in transfer switch you won't need to be switching outlets or turning things on and off. The OEM inverter (and I assume this one is the same) plugs into an outlet and passes through AC automatically when on shore power and converts to the batteries when you unplug. You just wire the existing fridge outlet to the inverter (and any other that you may want to have run off the batteries) With this system you would also have power to the fridge if you lose power unexpectedly while at your site not your not around to switch it around. The only thing you need to make sure of is the inverter is turned on. I just left mine on all the time unless it was in storage between trips

If your only using it for travel days, an AGM battery may be fine as long as you get some power from you tow vehicle. I got about 7 amps from our '17 GMC. I would have a net loss of about 3 to 4 amp per hour while pulling. Adding a 100 or 200AH of lithium will greatly increase your reserve.

I hadn't seen that inverter, JKellerJr, going to have to check that out for sure! May definitely make all the setup easier.
 

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