Dropped It (Insert expletive here)

Been there done that. Same thing with A B& W Companion Hitch. Rolled back and latched on and handle closed, I got out put the pin it and did not notice that the truck moved forward a couple of inches and did not take a good look at the king pin to make sure the jaws were surrounding the king pin. I don't make that mistake again. I triple check the king pin and jaws, double check that the pin is in the hitch, do the pull test and than look at the king pin again and raise my legs and then I am ready to take off.
Jim Bonhote, 2021 2930RL, 2015 Ford F350 Platinum
 
I share this just so my mistake may be a reminder to everyone not to get sloppy when hitching and unhitching. Fortunately, insurance will cover less the $500 deductible. An expensive lesson for sure.

Chris

Thanks for sharing! I’ve added a new item to our departure checklist!
 
And hopefully for thoughs that
Do have an “Opps” with TV & RV both, you Carry you insurance via the same policy !
 
Yep. The guy who installed this hitch was adamant that the pull test wasn’t necessary with that hitch, “If the cam handle closes and you can see the jaws around the king pin it’s locked in.” I only got half that right.

And yes, we didn’t get the truck backed up quite far enough to lock in the kingpin. The cam handled closed. I just never looked to check to make sure I could see the jaws locked around the kingpin.

Just a super stupid mistake that won’t happen again.

Live and learn.


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Thanks for sharing, your posting will save someone from having the same problem.
Thanks:
Bob A.
 
I hear some people leave their legs down and do the pull test. That is not a good policy. You are putting a lot of stress on the legs. You should raise the legs 1/2 to 1 in and then do the pull test. After that you can raise the leg. After that I do one more walk around and recheck the hitch to make sure the hitch is still locked in.

Jim Bonhote, 2021 Solitude 2930RL, 2015 Ford F-350 Platinum, B&W Hitch, Firestone airbags.
 
I’ve read many many posts about the “drop”. I’m in the process of upgrading from a TT to a 5’er. Just picked a new Ram 3500 DRW. Now that I have the horse, will decide on the cart once the RV industry settles down in 2023?
My plan is to go Reese Goosebox. No drop, empty bed, and save a couple hundred pounds of payload with no hitch. Anyone with a Goosebox have hitching issues??
 
I’ve read many many posts about the “drop”. I’m in the process of upgrading from a TT to a 5’er. Just picked a new Ram 3500 DRW. Now that I have the horse, will decide on the cart once the RV industry settles down in 2023?
My plan is to go Reese Goosebox. No drop, empty bed, and save a couple hundred pounds of payload with no hitch. Anyone with a Goosebox have hitching issues??

No issues with the GooseBox, I Love it !!!!

The one thing we did that made hitching easier was to paint a 2" white stripe on the center of GooseBox and a corresponding white stripe on the tailgate and truck bed. With the High-mount camera this really helps me line up with the center of the truck and gets me right to the ball.

PS: I just responded to a new camper with a GooseBox that had trouble getting the camper off the truck. The problem is that the little keeper on the un-hitch cable can slip and not open the release pin enough. So, you might want to keep an eye out for that little keeper slipping. I had to adjust and tighten mine when I first installed it.
 
Thanks to this forum, I was prepared for this issue.

- Always visually check the pin and hitch to verify engagement.
- Always do a pull test (I leave chocks in place and raise jacks about 1/2").
- Always do a lights test as a last departure check.

I added the last one because I left on a 75mi back road trip and didn't verify the 7 pin plug was in. It sure felt weird when I was braking, but fortunately the truck was able to brake successfully (and Wisconsin is flat). I discovered the problem when un-hitching. I was too stupid to understand the problem early... Now I know what it feels like with no trailer brakes.

Sharing these issues are the real value in being on a forum like this.
Thanks;
Rob
 
I know this is an old thread, but I hope someone who has experienced a trailer drop can look at these pictures of a used trailer I'm considering. The owner told me he was moving the trailer to mow under it while he's been trying to sell it. His friend hitched it improperly and the trailer fell on his bed. These look like stress cracks that are about a foot long and are on either side of the pinbox, at a 45 degree angle pointng towards the pinbox. From the posts I've read in this thread, most people say the trailer was unscathed and the truck rails took all the damage. For anyone who has experienced this firsthand, does this look like a fall from a hitch, or something more serious?

left_crack.jpeg right_crack.jpeg
Left..................................................Right
 
That just looks like surface damage where it hit the back of the truck. Take a look where the jacks bolt to the frame. That will tell how hard it hit. Make sure the frame and jack mounts are not bent.
 
I know this is an old thread, but I hope someone who has experienced a trailer drop can look at these pictures of a used trailer I'm considering. The owner told me he was moving the trailer to mow under it while he's been trying to sell it. His friend hitched it improperly and the trailer fell on his bed. These look like stress cracks that are about a foot long and are on either side of the pinbox, at a 45 degree angle pointng towards the pinbox. From the posts I've read in this thread, most people say the trailer was unscathed and the truck rails took all the damage. For anyone who has experienced this firsthand, does this look like a fall from a hitch, or something more serious?

View attachment 41259 View attachment 41260
Left..................................................Right
When in doubt, walk away. There will be other deals, unless you're getting a crazy one on this one.

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This is the reason I would do a pull test every single time, only takes once for a mistake.

After hookup, with landing gear down, chocks still in place, and tailgate down. Manually hold trailer brakes and give a slight amount of throttle while in drive. If properly hooked up, truck wont go anywhere. Cheap insurance.

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..................................
 
Last edited:
When in doubt, walk away. There will be other deals, unless you're getting a crazy one on this one.

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Looks like something hit it very hard, maybe the hitch but I dont see how. It should be fixed and made sure the king pin and rest of structure is ok. The price would have to reflect cost to fix. Too much of a pita for me.
 
For anyone who has experienced this firsthand, does this look like a fall from a hitch, or something more serious?

View attachment 41259 View attachment 41260
Left..................................................Right

Everyone is different, but I would have to walk away. Anytime there was any creaking/groaning/popping noises the little voice in my head would be second guessing my decision to buy damaged goods. I would walk away to keep that voice silent.
 
I always use a flashlight. DW is second set of eyes. Also do the pull test. Someone posted the other day about painting the jaws with fluorescent paint to help see they are around the king pin. Sorry about your experience. We all do things which cost us time and money… we rubbed our 303 against a tree branch and tore the roof on the edge our first year.
 
Those do not look like cracks. That looks like it was dragged and gouged down something. Best case means something was protruding above the rails of the truck as the rv skid down the hitch (maybe the hitch itself?). Not sure how that would happen so, I might take a gander that those gouge marks are from the tail gate as it slid off the truck completely which is a bigger drop potentially. IF it's just cosmetic then that's an easy fix by a good fiberglass repair shop if you can get trailer for the right price.

Also looks like they may have had the trailer too low and could have backed into and hit with rails... width looks about right.

Full-time Traveling Family ,'21 Momentum 395MS-R, '21 F450 King, 2000watts solar, Dual Victron MP-II 12/3000 2 x 120v, DIY 15kwh LiFePo4 battery with Daly BMS
 

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