dropping the coroplast

jdmert

Advanced Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2019
Messages
53
Location
Tacoma, Wa
I hope to wait for spring to do this, but my OCD is not letting me leave it sit. There is so much wrong under the trailer (287RSTS) that needs correcting.
My question is though, for you that have dropped the coroplast, were you able to drop just one side and work on it, or did you need to drop the entire thing?.

I can see where it will be a major task, especially with the propane lines etc that are attached over it.

I want to make the needed corrections before some unprotected wire or plumbing pipe rubs to the point of failure.
 
It would depend on how much access you need to have and where the components are located. In most cases to make a repair or for some installs you would not need to drop all of the coroplast. When I have needed to access the under belly, I started by dropping in small sections of the coroplast in the area where I needed to work and continue further until I attained the access I needed.
 
It would depend on how much access you need to have and where the components are located. In most cases to make a repair or for some installs you would not need to drop all of the coroplast. When I have needed to access the under belly, I started by dropping in small sections of the coroplast in the area where I needed to work and continue further until I attained the access I needed.

My coroplast is one sheet front to back. And from what I have seen with the endoscope I need to access from just behind the wheels to about tje bedroom.

Any thoughts on cutting a section out then taping the cuts when it is put back up.
 
My coroplast is one sheet front to back. And from what I have seen with the endoscope I need to access from just behind the wheels to about tje bedroom.

Any thoughts on cutting a section out then taping the cuts when it is put back up.


I've dropped it, I've cut a hole and tapped. They both work fine for different things. If you really want to get in there and do work, organizing wires, really checking things, adding insulation etc you need to drop it. If all you want to do is change out a valve on the sewer line, that can be done with a cut and tape job.
 
I dropped my coroplast last spring and had to drop the whole thing to get to what I was working on. I worked from the back to the front and it wasn't that hard. It was harder to get it back on since I was working alone and that sheet is 7 ft. wide by 12 ft. long on my Solitude. I was replacing the wet fiberglass insulation with hard foam board insulation. I didn't have a lot of gas lines or other issues that hampered my work. I used an extension ladder to hold it up when I was putting it back on...

20190501_182623_001.jpg 20190501_192717.jpg
 
My coroplast is one sheet front to back. And from what I have seen with the endoscope I need to access from just behind the wheels to about tje bedroom.

Any thoughts on cutting a section out then taping the cuts when it is put back up.

Yes same here on a previous trailer and for some work I did, I was able to remove screws until I was able to access the area I needed for an install I did.
 
I would only remove the screws you need to get to what you need have replaced 2 of my waste valves and have only had to remove 5-6 screws to get the job. I would never cut it, my daughter had her trailer in for work and they cut it and the tape is always falling off and they have not found a good tape that works yet. It is not that big of deal to do it right take the screws out.
 
My coroplast is one sheet front to back. And from what I have seen with the endoscope I need to access from just behind the wheels to about tje bedroom.

Any thoughts on cutting a section out then taping the cuts when it is put back up.

Our Solitude 379FL also has one [very long] piece of Coroplast. We have had it down in the front for various repairs, but using arms and legs it is fairly easy to relocate the holes for the self-tapping screws.

I have found, though that if you need to make a hole or repair a cut, Lowes and Home-Depot sell various sized sheets of the same coroplast that you can use for repairs. I cut a piece to fit, usually with tin snips. Then clean the area to remove dirt. apply silicone to the piece and use 1/4 drive ductwork self-piercing screws with very light torque so they don't strip. After the silicone sets the screws don't matter. So what if its a different color. A quick and easy permanent repair. You'd have to crawl under there to see it anyway.
 
I would personally never cut the chloroplast. When we bought ours I was talking to our salesman about a used unit they had and told him I didn’t want it because the chloroplast was cut and taped and it looked very haggard. He said he agreed and that they actually deduct a substantial amount from trade in values because of it.

Side note: is there actually insulation in there? I have to drop mine and I guess I just assumed there was none. If so, I’ll likely also change it out for foam board.
 
Stupid question perhaps, but what is the function of the Coroplast? Is it simply for keeping the underside clean and dry, and perhaps a modicum of insulation? We recently took possession of a 2020 2150RB and I've not had much time, or need, to crawl underneath.
It sounds like removing the Coroplast for maintenance/repair isn't a real big deal.

One thing I did discover is there are a number of bare metal tech screws as well as electrical junction boxes and clamp fittings that surely will rust making them difficult or impossible to remove sometime in the future. I plan to paint them with black Rust-Oleum type paint.
 
Stupid question perhaps, but what is the function of the Coroplast?

It seals the underside of the trailer making it possible to heat to prevent freezing. Also there is exposed wiring, ducting, etc. You definitely wouldn't want to be going down the road in a rainstorm without it. It is a pain to remove, especially mine because it is one piece (the cheap way to do it). My last TT, a Forest River Rockwood, had it sectioned which made it easier.
 
Great tip using the ladder to support the coroplast! Gotta get into mine and wasn't looking forward to dealing with the 1 piece sheet put it looks like the ladder will make it more manageable.
 
I would only remove the screws you need to get to what you need have replaced 2 of my waste valves and have only had to remove 5-6 screws to get the job. I would never cut it, my daughter had her trailer in for work and they cut it and the tape is always falling off and they have not found a good tape that works yet. It is not that big of deal to do it right take the screws out.

I cut it on a previous RV and tried many things to tape or glue it back up. Ended up making metal frame for flap and surround and screwing it back up.
 

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