Electrical issues on a 395M Momentum

[dually mike]

Ok, folks. I have a 2018 395M. Recently took a 2 week trip. Day I'm leaving, I come home from work, open slides and turn on fridge. Afternoon, and wife packs everything in fridge and freezer, I finish cutting grass and she comes out of RV and says fridge is beeping. I looked for a couple quick things and quickly posted on FB to troubleshoot. Got a quick response and decided to just run the fridge on propane since suggestion was it was either an 8 amp fuse or the control board. Stopped for fuel around 3 am, and as I'm leaving my trailer brake controller starts flashing on my dash. Mess with the [plug a little and it's OK, off we go. Few miles down I-95 it starts again then goes back on. So I'm figuring it's the plug and as long as I have lights I'll mess with it at truck stop at bottom of Va. Well, you know what happened. The trailer lights go out! 4 am on 95 with no place to pull off and work on it, I made it to truck stop. Get it working again, but now every time I hit one of those smooth bridges and everything bounces they go out, hit another bridge, they're back on. Messed with it some more at breakfast and make it to campground. Changed out the connecter, and all is good. Wanted to drain the propane tank, so didn't have the auto switch valve on. One day wife goes in and fridge is beeping again, turns it on electric, and it's working. Worked on electric entire rest of trip. So we leave to come home and just out of campground lights go out again. Now I'm figuring it's the truck wiring, so I wire tied connecter in place and everything works. Get home , clean the rig and go to put it away. Auto level stops working, front jacks make a buzzing noise and it trips One control. I can't even operate jacks manually, I have to lower the front, then it will let me raise it. If I try to raise it they just make that noise and don't work. So I also noticed the converter fan is no longer running. I have 12.08 volts on battery, and when I plug AC current in I get 14,08 at battery. Checked both fuses at converter with test light and they're good. Have 12 V power at converter. Any suggestions where to go from here? Tried auto level again and will let me raise it, then it lowers to start sequence, but as soon as it tries to raise it makes that buzzing noise like a solenoid is tripping out and shuts off.

 

[FT4NOW]

Very interesting indeed. With 12.08v on the battery, that is below 50% of its capacity. That's assuming a single lead acid battery at rest, see chart below. A bad battery can cause a lot of mysterious issues, I would check the health of the battery and then begin troubleshooting if that doesnt resolve anything. I'd check the junction box under the pin box for loose wires for the truck light issue and then start at where the battery provides power to the camper and see if there are any loose connections and go from there. I'm not sure if the fridge is a separate issue or related, but typically the fans going bad can cause the fuse to blow, but then you wouldn't be able to even turn on the fridge.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[dually mike]

Very interesting indeed. With 12.08v on the battery, that is below 50% of its capacity. That's assuming a single lead acid battery at rest, see chart below. A bad battery can cause a lot of mysterious issues, I would check the health of the battery and then begin troubleshooting if that doesnt resolve anything. I'd check the junction box under the pin box for loose wires for the truck light issue and then start at where the battery provides power to the camper and see if there are any loose connections and go from there. I'm not sure if the fridge is a separate issue or related, but typically the fans going bad can cause the fuse to blow, but then you wouldn't be able to even turn on the fridge. View attachment 35798

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

A bit confused why you would say battery at 12.08 is 50%. 12 volts is all it will hold. Everything I saw regarding checking converter said test it with out converter running, and should be 12 volts. Plug converter in and should go up to 14 and begin decreasing. I did that with mine today, and that's how it's working. Only problem I have is now I never hear the fan run on converter. When I unplugged the fuses on converter to check them, when I put the bottom one back in the fan kicked on for a split second and hasn't run since. After I posted yesterday it rained all day so didn't mess with it anymore. Not sure how this week is going to go, may not get to it until weekend. Thanks for the input.

 

[FT4NOW]

A bit confused why you would say battery at 12.08 is 50%. 12 volts is all it will hold. Everything I saw regarding checking converter said test it with out converter running, and should be 12 volts. Plug converter in and should go up to 14 and begin decreasing. I did that with mine today, and that's how it's working. Only problem I have is now I never hear the fan run on converter. When I unplugged the fuses on converter to check them, when I put the bottom one back in the fan kicked on for a split second and hasn't run since. After I posted yesterday it rained all day so didn't mess with it anymore. Not sure how this week is going to go, may not get to it until weekend. Thanks for the input.

I included a snapshot of part of an explanation from Progressive Dynamics regarding battery construction and why it should be more than 12v.

Those fuses are for reverse polarity protection, and should only pop if the battery cables were hooked up incorrectly.

Based on your readings with the converter, it sounds like it's working correctly, so maybe the battery isnt holding a charge or does have some damage. I would still recommend getting the battery tested, more than just putting a meter on it, a load test an automotive store would be helpful.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk