Starting with simple solutions I thought the fuse in slot 65 might be the problem but no luck. Looking for anything obvious I might be missing here. Fairly new setup for me and it has never charged the batteries going down the freeway. 5 hours driving today no charge was gained. Any ideas? Thxs
GeoffnCheri
Senior Member
Tow vehicles are generally inefficient at charging batteries while driving. Can you give more information on what the battery charge was at the beginning of the trip and where they were at 5 hours later?
With the trailer hooked up, after holding the brake pedal down, does the truck display the “Trailer Connected” message?
I just happened to notice that 3 of 4 lights were showing on the dummy panel when we departed this morning and by the time we arrived 5 hours later the panel read the same. That's the longest tow so far with this setup so it caught my attention today at the campsite. Sorry, nothing more techinical to provide at the moment. It's a two battery setup.
Yes. Truck always acknowledges on the dash that the 7 pin is plugged in immediately without having to press brakes; nothing else is necessary for them to marry up.
Get a 7 pin tester to test your trailer connection on truck. They make just 7 pin test for few dollars less. One below will test both 4 and 7 pin connections.
https://www.amazon.com/IIT-16687-Bl...&qid=1615111330&sprefix=7+pin,aps,189&sr=8-24
https://www.amazon.com/IIT-16687-Bl...&qid=1615111330&sprefix=7+pin,aps,189&sr=8-24
Hokensalem
Senior Member
The F-250 has to be in gear before that pin comes hot. Have someone in the cab with it in gear to test at the connector or rig you up a light you can see while you are sitting in the seat. My truck keeps the batteries in my TT charged good. I have 2 alternators on my vehicle so that probally make a differance.
Besides the fuse there is also a relay in the trucks charging circuit.
I’m pretty sure the 19 requires you to apply the brake for 3 seconds before charging begins, so if you test the voltage be aware that it could require brake application. Things change from year to year though.
Monitor voltage with a meter on the battery terminals of the trailer. Have someone start the truck, close the door, put it in gear, apply the brakes or whatever else it takes to begin charging. You should see a voltage increase on the trailer battery. Any increase at all shows the system is working.
GeoffnCheri
Senior Member
No experience with the 2019 however, if 5 hours later the state of the batteries is the same charge as when you began the trip, I would accept this as a win. Your batteries are supplying the refer control board and other parasitic draws. With a single/standard alternator truck, breaking even is often as good as it gets. If other folks are experiencing a better charge rate from a single/standard alternator I would also be anxious to hear of it. If you have not already, I would consider installing a battery monitor to see the actual voltage rate or putting a voltmeter on the battery before the trip and upon arrival to determine if you are losing and charge and to what degree.
I'll set up a battery monitor to get a better look at things. Does your PullRite hitch happen to squeak? Mine is fairly vocal at slow speeds. PullRite said it was normal.
Unfortunately, testing the charge pin on the new trucks is not as simple as putting your tester on the charge pin and turning on the truck to see if you have 12 volts.
The new trucks are computer controlled and they need to sense the resistance from your electric brakes before the computer will turn on the 12 volts for the charge pin (at least on late model Fords).
Consequently, your best option is to check your battery voltage before you connect your 7-pin connector and test the battery voltage again (with the engine running) after you have driven your camper for a couple of miles. If you have higher voltage (should be 14.4v +/-) the 7 pin is charging your camper batteries, if your voltage is the same you are not getting a charge from your truck.
It took me a trip to the Ford Dealer to learn the knowledge I am sharing here.
The new trucks are computer controlled and they need to sense the resistance from your electric brakes before the computer will turn on the 12 volts for the charge pin (at least on late model Fords).
Consequently, your best option is to check your battery voltage before you connect your 7-pin connector and test the battery voltage again (with the engine running) after you have driven your camper for a couple of miles. If you have higher voltage (should be 14.4v +/-) the 7 pin is charging your camper batteries, if your voltage is the same you are not getting a charge from your truck.
It took me a trip to the Ford Dealer to learn the knowledge I am sharing here.
GeoffnCheri
Senior Member
Generally I have not noticed any noise. I stay pretty proactive on preventative maintenance and so far it has served us well. With a 6 3/4" bed I absolutely like the ability to not worry about backing angle. The con is I have experienced several sites where in order to get unhitched I have had to angle the truck off of the pavement in order to get less than 10 degrees. Overall experience is very happy with the hitch
I do now - thanks to you. 12.1 volts this morning. I think the salesman showed us this feature but I forget about it with all the other things going on that morning; but than again maybe he didn't...
I enjoyed messing with my family this morning, turning on and off the lights before they realized I had a new app.
In my perfect world, when you bought an RV you’d stay a couple of nights right at my dealership. The salesman and a tech would be at your beck and call during that time so you’d have a little time to absorb all of the new information and to fix problems.
12.1V is very low. Are you plugged in to shore power?
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