Friendly reminder to check your suspension wet bolts

Hence my quote "if properly maintained ". If there's rust they're not greasing like you're suppose to which would help in finding the break during that greasing and inspection.
I'm at 42 wet bolts now in 21K trailer miles, 5500 miles out of set number two greased three times including independent trailer repair, GD factory, and me - all properly greased. None of this group were broken, but there were no bushings left, all the bolts worn, two hangers ruined with bolts spinning and holes enlarged, and plenty of residual grease in the eyes - remains to be seen how the new revised MORryde's will stand up. The only rust I've seen is inside the fracture of the bolts at the bushing grease hole where no grease can possibly go or should go unless the bolt was defective or partially fractured for an extended period of time.
 
Yep. Had one of those. Cost about $12,000 by the time we were done. Bolt on the right front spring disappeared.

Pays to check torque now and then as well.
When checking torque, be sure to use a backer wrench. If you skip this step, you risk ruining the hangers when the bolt splines spin in their hole
 
I wish our RV suspensions had leaf spring rubber bushings in there. Replace the bushing and a solid grade 8 bolt and forget it.
Our RV leaf springs are way to narrow from the typical older truck or car that used rubber bushings. A guy might be able to find a rubber bushing with the correct diameter for the spring eye but the width of our leaf springs are too narrow to try and find one already manufactured that might fit. I suppose if you could find a rubber bushing that was the right diameter for the spring eye but too long, you could try to cut the length down to get it to fit. Rubber bushings would last for almost the life of the RV seeing as an RV would probably never get as many miles on it as a car or truck.

It seems from my observation at least, the wet bolt bronze bushings wear out and disintegrate at the frame hangers, the wet bushings at the equalizer seem to always be fine.
Side note, I've had new MORryde wet bolts break off right at the nut when rechecking torque.,
 

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A guy might be able to find a bushing with the correct diameter for the spring eye but the width of our leaf springs are too narrow to try and find one already manufactured that might fit. I suppose if you could find a bushing that was the right diameter for the spring eye but too long, you could try to cut the length down to get it to fit.
The typical RV leaf spring eye is too small for that kind of bushing. You would need custom made springs
 
The typical RV leaf spring eye is too small for that kind of bushing. You would need custom made springs
You would have to figure out the right durometer for the rubber, but I bet somebody could 3D print bushings to the right size and hole.
 
The typical RV leaf spring eye is too small for that kind of bushing. You would need custom made springs
Maybe I should have thought of that when I had my springs made. These guys specialize in 4x4 rock crawler stuff and make springs with bushings but for a different application.

Currently I don't have enough hanger clearance for bigger eyes, but it would have been an interesting discussion.

Orbit Eyes Suspension System | Grand Junction | Alcan Spring
 
When I put on my Roadmaster suspension, the slipper springs they use have a larger eye, and they use a nylon (?) bushing that is about 5x thicker than the never fail ones.
 
When I put on my Roadmaster suspension, the slipper springs they use have a larger eye, and they use a nylon (?) bushing that is about 5x thicker than the never fail ones.
Probably has to do with the way the slipper springs function. One end of is non-moving, that may explain why one end is larger than a regular double-eye spring.
 
Check this out! Just released video of the new Curt system with rubber bushings and rollers. Wish mine came with it. I have no idea on pricing but I'm going to look into the kit. I'm sure pricey being for a tri-axle.

 
The wet bolt drilling is the primary issue when mass produced as these are. If the drill bit is not maintained and becomes dull it will start to tear verse cut the material. These surface tears create stress risers that over time lead to microscopic cracks (beach-marks) from bolt load/shock during operation. Failure as we see in the pictures takes the path of least resistance. That being the cross drilling at the center of the bolt to give the grease a path to the bushing.

Bolt checks should be on everyone’s list as well as a few spares.

Dutchman2
 
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The wet bolt drilling is the primary issue when mass produced as these are. If the drill bit is not maintained and becomes dull it will start to tear verse cut the material. These surface tears create stress risers that over time lead to microscopic cracks (beach-marks) from bolt load during operation. Failure as we see in the pictures takes the path of least resistance. That being the cross drilling at the center of the bolt to give the grease a path to the bushing.

Bolt checks should be on everyone’s list as well as a few spares.

Dutchman2
Having suffered bolt failure, I don't disagree with the premise of bolt checking. However, a wet bolt is subjected to increased shock when the bushings completely disintegrate and are no longer present. What's the thickness of the average bronze bushing maybe 1/32-1/16? Double that with bushings completely gone and you have a very large shock increase to the bolts with every little bump you hit. I've had 28 bolts/bushings replaced and in 70% there was zero evidence of any bushing at all. If there is a flaw in design in my experience, it is the disintegration of the bushings which increase the impact on hardened bolts that by design don't flex.
 
Before a long trip planned, I found that all the bolts to the frame were not taking any grease with one of the bolts the nut was loose. So, I ended up replacing all of them and they are now taking grease. Recommend to everyone to check the bolts and try to grease them if they have a cert.
 
Before a long trip planned, I found that all the bolts to the frame were not taking any grease with one of the bolts the nut was loose. So, I ended up replacing all of them and they are now taking grease. Recommend to everyone to check the bolts and try to grease them if they have a cert.
Be sure to clock the new bolts in either the 3 or 9 o’clock position. This will help with the wet bolt taking grease as there should be clearance between the wet bolt and bushing. If it is clocked lower than that the RV weight will make it much harder for the wet bolt to accept the grease as there will be no clearance between the wet bolt and bushing. In many cases owners have had to lift the trailer to unload the suspension to allow for any grease to be injected. Three other possible reasons for the wet bolt to not take grease 1. The bolt was not drilled correctly and the two drilled grease passages did not intersect. This has been reports numerous times. 2. The lack of proper greasing has led to bushing deteriorating and bushing material has been jammed in the grease hole and will not allow grease to be injected. 3. Bad zerk fitting. They do sometimes freeze up with rust and will not allow grease to be injected.
 
Check this out! Just released video of the new Curt system with rubber bushings and rollers. Wish mine came with it. I have no idea on pricing but I'm going to look into the kit. I'm sure pricey being for a tri-axle.

Looks good but I cannot find pricing or where to order it.
 
Be sure to clock the new bolts in either the 3 or 9 o’clock position. This will help with the wet bolt taking grease as there should be clearance between the wet bolt and bushing. If it is clocked lower than that the RV weight will make it much harder for the wet bolt to accept the grease as there will be no clearance between the wet bolt and bushing. In many cases owners have had to lift the trailer to unload the suspension to allow for any grease to be injected. Three other possible reasons for the wet bolt to not take grease 1. The bolt was not drilled correctly and the two drilled grease passages did not intersect. This has been reports numerous times. 2. The lack of proper greasing has led to bushing deteriorating and bushing material has been jammed in the grease hole and will not allow grease to be injected. 3. Bad zerk fitting. They do somtheetimes freeze up with rust and will not allow grease to be injected.
The major issue with wet bolts is that the spring eyes are rarely round. This causes the rigid bushings to crack.
As for greasing...there is NO method to keep the grease where it is needed. Most of a greasing will exit before one gets to the freeway. Realistically, one should grease them at every stop, to give them a chance of surviving. Most of my trips are long ones, and I am not gonna grease them at every fuel stop. And the worst part is that just because one takes grease, that doesn't mean it is good! They will often take grease when they are destroyed! I have had them take grease when there was no bushing left.
I have installed them on two previous TTs and fought with them since 1992. There is always problems with them.
About 2013 I discovered Never Fail bushings.
They have been tested exceeding 100,000 miles. I put over 50,000 miles on that first set before I sold that TT.
I recently had to replace all of the springs on my present Momentum due to the bushings failures.
I installed Never fails in them.
No more greasing for me.
 
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One could argue that the bolts are flawed… seems to be a pretty consistent pattern and problem…
 

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