Furrion FWH09A-AM Copper Drain Tube Replacement / Bush Fix.

[4x4dually]

Someone's dumb arse forgot to pull the little brass drain cap on the water heater last winter. Opps. Un-winterized last night to find the copper drain tube had frozen and split. Naturally, we are taking the camper out tomorrow for the spring break weekend and I need it fixed. Called Lippert. Guess what? They don't stock replacements. They said "the split tube requires a full unit replacement." The **** it does! They expect us to replace a $500-$700 unit because of one split tube? Have these people lost their minds?

My bush fix last night was simple. I cut the bulkhead fitting off of the tube. I then screwed the fitting into a 1/2 NPT coupler with a hex on it so I could clamp it up on the drill press. Using a 7/16 bit, I drilled the copper pipe out of the center. I then tapped it and installed a 1/4 NPT plug. This allowed me to reinstall the unit and turn the water on.

Now that I find a replacement tube isn't available, I'll just pull the plug and extend it to the front with a 1/4 NPT pipe nipple and put a 1/4 turn valve on it for drain purposes. A very simple fix if you have the ability to use a drill and a tap. Maybe this will help someone out that's in a bind.

Naturally, I pulled the entire unit before I realized this tub could be replaced without pulling the unit. It will all come out the back if you can get to it. Two phillips head screws and a 3/4 wrench.

 

[txloser]

Nice job on the quick fix.

 

[trailrydr]

Great fix! Just goes to show that even an ah-crap doesnt have to cost alot of paper!

 

[4x4dually]

I just got back from the plumbing store with parts. I'll post up my final fix with a drain and the parts and pics later. I should have it back to fully functional tonight. I need to 3D print a part to hold the new pipe first. More to come.

 

[Soundsailor]

Nice work, thanks for the write-up.

 

[4x4dually]

Got it all done. Here's the final outcome and some instructions. I think it could still be better so maybe someone can improve on what I have here. The valve the supply house had is pretty big so a smaller version would help.

Here's the old vs the new. You'll notice I cut the copper tube from the bulkhead fitting. I drilled with 7/16 bit and tapped it 1/4-NPT. Then inserted a 3/8 compression to 1/4 NPT male adapter. Into that I inserted a length of 3/8 pex. I 3D printed a mount so the factory screw and location could be used to secure it. The black clamp was printed from PETG on my Prusa.

The next trick is to get it into the unit. I used a long piece of baling wire. I stuck it through the bottom hole in the unit and hung it outside the trailer. I inserted it from the inside at first but it can be done from the outside as well like I did the last time. Then insert the assembly sliding it down the baling wire into position. The wire lines up the bottom hole and keeps the stupid washer from spinning out of position. Crawl inside the camper and insert the top screw. Then push or pull the wire out and insert the bottom screw. Then insert the clamp screw on from the outside. Done.

The wire.

The clamp.

Clamp installed.

Valve and outlet pipe installed.

Final product.

The fact that these companies design something like this and don't provide a replacement part is a testament as to how the newer generations of engineers and managers are failing miserably. This is a drain for winterizing. They dang well KNOW at some point almost every person that owns one will forget to drain that little pipe. They expect someone to buy an entire new $500+ unit just because of a copper tube? Absolutely INSANE. They should be ashamed of themselves.

If I had more time and could order stuff and wait on it, I think I could design it a little better. I hadn't planned on notching the shrould plate but the valve was larger than I expected. I do have to spin the valve to get the plastic plug out to drain the heat exchanger, but it's easy enough. I just hope the metal push-lock keeper inside doesn't wear on the tubing over time. Not a perfect solution, but one that cost me less than $20. With this information, I think a person could make one and install it in less than 2 hours if you have all the tools and some know-how....and you are able to get to the rear of your water heater unit. I pulled my entire unit out at first not knowing what was wrong and learned it could have been done without pulling it. All I lack now is caulking the cover back.

Enjoy!

 

[IBEW Sparky]

I just got back from the plumbing store with parts. I'll post up my final fix with a drain and the parts and pics later. I should have it back to fully functional tonight. I need to 3D print a part to hold the new pipe first. More to come.

Another fix would have been to remove the split copper tube and squeezed the split closed as best you could then use flux and solder and solder the split closed. I did this in a similar situation with a split tube on a frost free water spigot... 20 years later and it's still in service.

 

[4x4dually]

Another fix would have been to remove the split copper tube and squeezed the split closed as best you could then use flux and solder and solder the split closed. I did this in a similar situation with a split tube on a frost free water spigot... 20 years later and it's still in service.

That was the very first thing I did. It closed nicely. I grabbed flux out of my soldering kit and covered it. I grabbed the torch and started to heat it. I'm a sparky not a plumber. I burned through the pipe and made a big hole like a DA. I used the wrong tip. I should have put the rose bud on my torch. I don't have a little pipe sweating torch, only my large act/oxy bottles. It would have taken minutes to repair but nooooooooo.....I had to make a mess. LOL

 

[IBEW Sparky]

That was the very first thing I did. It closed nicely. I grabbed flux out of my soldering kit and covered it. I grabbed the torch and started to heat it. I'm a sparky not a plumber. I burned through the pipe and made a big hole like a DA. I used the wrong tip. I should have put the rose bud on my torch. I don't have a little pipe sweating torch, only my large act/oxy bottles. It would have taken minutes to repair but nooooooooo.....I had to make a mess. LOL

That happens from time to time,... I have a small butane pencil tip torch that I use for small tubing repairs and small electrical wiring on vehicles. It works fairly well.

 

[4x4dually]

Gotcha. I solder all the time at work on electronics both with and without magnification. I just haven't sweated pipe like that or soldered pipe. Jack of all trades, master of none, but there are a few trades that the "all" doesn't cover. That's one of them.