Furrion Tankless Water Heater - Cold Weather

[The Bruck Fam]

For those worrying about the WH freezing, I would say don’t fret. I have spent the past week with temps in the teens at night and wondering if when things warm up will I have a problem. We have a 2023 model, and based on the board pics above it is a gen 1 heater. No problems whatsoever considering the furnace is right next to the WH. Turned on the hot water at 3am and its starting temp was 65. Much better than the drive today where outside temps barely broke 32. I did add a small refectix panel to the WH door, but other than that, we ran the furnace at 62 all night. Now, what did freeze were the water lines to the island sink. Time to drop the coroplast and add insulation.

 

[KIMandALLEN1988]

That certainly looks like the Gen 1 board layout, however searching the Manufacturer Reference number of FWH09AFA-AM leads me to the following LCI page: https://store.lci1.com/furrion-tank...-antifreeze-protection-24gpm-white-2021132340

The specifications section on that LCI page clearly states this model supersedes the SKU and MRN of the generation 1 that came from my factory in my rig, and the description on that page says it has freeze protection. I would love if you can take some more pics of the board with the top left a little closer/clear and also of the Manufacturer Reference Number so that we can try to narrow this down for you and anyone else that is working with these TWH units. I spoke with at least 2 other people online who replaced their gen 1 boards with gen 2's ordered direct from LCI and they had the exact same differences on the board that I indicated on my photos, but this throws a wrench in that thought process.

WondersAwait - Sorry it took me awhile to grab a few photos. We have been very happy with our new 397 thus far and while the board looks like the gen 1 to me, the model number suggests it has OEM freeze protection and it worked fine for us in the upper 20s. Thanks for your input on this matter! AP

 

[Rickba]

Also remember you will need to run anti freeze through the tankless hot water to prevent it from freezing and busting the copper tubes on the back. I learned this the hard way. I have always just drained my previous hot water heaters, blew them out with air and never had any issues. I followed this method on my 2021 320 MKS, which the dealer said is the same way they do it, and just paid $1300 to have it replaced. We also had to replace the Nautilus panel as one of the diverter valves separated. I was able to purchase the diverter valve but the dealer said the panel was covered under the extended warranty. We keep our 5th wheel in a garage when we aren't using it. Granted the garage isn't heated but we never had these issues with our old 5th wheel. We have had a lot of issues with our COVID Reflection.

 

[JustDucky]

Bill, I'm glad to see someone who has done a replacement! I've been combing these forums for days looking for something like this. Lots of discussion about the problem, and a few "sort-of" solutions keeping the tankless in place, but I don't want a tankless even if it doesn't freeze. So - we just bought a new Reflection 297RSTS (2023), but we insisted they change out the tankless for a tank heater. They agreed, albeit for an exorbitant price. We asked for a Dometic/Atwood model, 'cuz that's what we're used to and you don't have to mess with anode rods (the tank is aluminum, I think). Anyway, I have two questions for you:
1. Did you have any problem fitting the Suburban into the space that the Furrion came out of?
2. How did you pipe the propane to the new heater? Any problems?
3. The tech who is going to do the work says he will try to run the control wires to the place where the existing control is now (which will be removed, of course). Is that what you did? Any problems or issues getting a dedicated 120v circuit to the unit?
Even though I'm not doing the work myself, I'd like to know what to expect and what to ask for. Thanks for your post, and for any help you can provide.

WeGoode,
Sorry for the late response and figure you already made the change. But as you know by now there wasn't any big issues with the exchange of units. The opening in the RV is 13" x 13" and accommodates either heating unit without any mods. The outside bezel/door for the Suburban is slightly smaller than the tankless but still covers the opening well. No issue running a new 12 ga wire from the 120v breaker panel to the heater unit and took the extra time too cleanup/reorganize the rats nest of wires behind the brkr panel. (also moved the convertor/battery charger into the front storage compartment for better cooling as it was buried under a gazillion wires behind the brkr panel). Toughest part was running the htr control wires up to the original control panel in the kitchen - where all the existing slide/tank monitor/lighting controls are. They didn't leave much room to thread any new wiring in the walls but it helped that the wires are low voltage and not very large. I used a picture to cover the hole in the bathroom wall where the original tankless controller was as it seemed way to hard to put the new htr controller & wiring there.

 

[JustDucky]

[MENTION=45449]JustDucky[/MENTION]
Did the Suburban fit the existing opening from the Furrion without any modicications?

Sorry for the late response and it's probably a moot point now, but yes, the suburban 6 gal hwh will fit the existing opening as both units require 13" x 13" opening.

 

[JLA956]

Also remember you will need to run anti freeze through the tankless hot water to prevent it from freezing and busting the copper tubes on the back. I learned this the hard way. I have always just drained my previous hot water heaters, blew them out with air and never had any issues. I followed this method on my 2021 320 MKS, which the dealer said is the same way they do it, and just paid $1300 to have it replaced. We also had to replace the Nautilus panel as one of the diverter valves separated. I was able to purchase the diverter valve but the dealer said the panel was covered under the extended warranty. We keep our 5th wheel in a garage when we aren't using it. Granted the garage isn't heated but we never had these issues with our old 5th wheel. We have had a lot of issues with our COVID Reflection.

On our 2023 Imagine it has a Furrion Tankless Water Heater - model number FWH09AFA. In reading the Winterization Instructions for this model it says that it can be winterized using compressed air only - no need for antifreeze. In the manual it has specific and detailed instructions regarding how to do this. Perhaps you have a different model Furrion Water Heater but at least with our model compressed air can be used for winterization.

 

[4x4dually]

On our 2023 Imagine it has a Furrion Tankless Water Heater - model number FWH09AFA. In reading the Winterization Instructions for this model it says that it can be winterized using compressed air only - no need for antifreeze. In the manual it has specific and detailed instructions regarding how to do this. Perhaps you have a different model Furrion Water Heater but at least with our model compressed air can be used for winterization.

We've wintered our Reflection with the Furrion tankless for several years now. I've always used compressed air to clean it out and have (knock on wood) never had any issues. Just be sure and pull the little black plug and drain anything left after the blow out. I always leave my nautilus valves halfway between positions after the blow out as well. That way they don't hold water on one side or the other with vacuum. Everything should drop with gravity and nothing should be left in the valves to separate them...or at least that's my take on the deal and to this day have never had an issue. You watch, now that I say this, something will break. First hard freeze of the year is tonight for us. LOL

 

[Soundsailor]

We've wintered our Reflection with the Furrion tankless for several years now. I've always used compressed air to clean it out and have (knock on wood) never had any issues. Just be sure and pull the little black plug and drain anything left after the blow out. I always leave my nautilus valves halfway between positions after the blow out as well. That way they don't hold water on one side or the other with vacuum. Everything should drop with gravity and nothing should be left in the valves to separate them...or at least that's my take on the deal and to this day have never had an issue. You watch, now that I say this, something will break. First hard freeze of the year is tonight for us. LOL

Yep, blowing out with air is one of the methods in our GD handbook. But I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy (if one breaks my pants don't fall down). So I first do the blowout to get all the water out of the system, and then I pump in the pink stuff to make doubly sure. Fingers crossed, this has worked well so far. For a few $ for the jugs of anti-freeze, cheap insurance.

 

[KIMandALLEN1988]

I know this thread has been going for some time now, hopefully someone is still reading it. I'll post this question here and move to another category later if no responses.

Our 2023 397 has a Furion FWH09AFA-AM tankless water heater with anti-freeze protection. We used it last spring in the 20's with no issues and it has worked great all season. Here is my question. We will be traveling west after Thanksgiving to do a volunteer gig over the winter. We do not plan on winterizing before we leave and we will leave the tank pads and furnace operating while sitting at our house and while traveling. Does anyone know if I need to keep an active water supply (water pump on) to the Furion water heater in order for the anti-freeze protection to function? Does it need fresh pressurized water coming in, or does it recycle the small amount of water it stores in the unit? I will attempt to contact Furion later this week and inquire. Thanks! AP

 

[KIMandALLEN1988]

FURION tankless water heater (FWH09AFA-AM) bypass valve? I was in the basement area of our 397 chasing down a possible small water leak and saw this bypass valve. I did not know I had this on my unit. Can someone explain to me how it functions? Thanks! AP

 

[WhittleBurner]

You flip it and it bypasses the water heater. There should be a section in your manual on it . I'm not familiar with the on demand water heaters to advise any further but I'm sure someone else can help

 

[JLA956]

We've wintered our Reflection with the Furrion tankless for several years now. I've always used compressed air to clean it out and have (knock on wood) never had any issues. Just be sure and pull the little black plug and drain anything left after the blow out. I always leave my nautilus valves halfway between positions after the blow out as well. That way they don't hold water on one side or the other with vacuum. Everything should drop with gravity and nothing should be left in the valves to separate them...or at least that's my take on the deal and to this day have never had an issue. You watch, now that I say this, something will break. First hard freeze of the year is tonight for us. LOL

Just to make sure that I understand your routine regarding "I always leave my nautilus valves halfway between positions". So, you place the water selection valve halfway between the City Water and Fresh Water Tank positions?

 

[4x4dually]

Just to make sure that I understand your routine regarding "I always leave my nautilus valves halfway between positions". So, you place the water selection valve halfway between the City Water and Fresh Water Tank positions?

I force air and let it run for a long long time in all positions then when I'm done, I turn all the valves, including the one you mentioned, halfway, yes. In my mind, it breaks the suction on the side that is closed so that any water left at the valve will drop with gravity down into the piping. The piping can flex with a little ice, the crappy plastic valves can't.

This is something I came up with on my own and wan't instructed by any OEM to do so. Use your own risk, but it makes perfect sense in my mind. The only thing I might consider is letting it sit for a few hours then turning them back on direction of the other. I guess it makes sense to not leave the valves halfway so that the seals don't get wonky on the inside from the halfway position. That just now crossed my mind.

 

[Soundsailor]

Does anyone know if I need to keep an active water supply (water pump on) to the Furion water heater in order for the anti-freeze protection to function? Does it need fresh pressurized water coming in, or does it recycle the small amount of water it stores in the unit?

While I don't know the official Furrion position on this, I always try to turn off the pump in my coach unless I'm using the water system. Should a leak occur, I really wouldn't want the pump to keep water flowing to the leak when I'm not able to detect it.

On our coach, we have the Furrion FHW09AM, so probably an older model than yours. We've had no issues camping in overnight temps in the 20s, sounds like that matches your experience. I think you'd be fine unless the temps get lower and stay lower especially if as you say "we will leave the tank pads and furnace operating while sitting at our house and while traveling."

 

[COGrandDes]

I know I upgraded my Furrion TWH motherboard to the revised one with "freeze Protection" and it does not require a water pressure source to operate. As long as I have shore power or battery power, and propane gas available, the Furrion unit will cycle on it's own to heat the water in the chambers to protect itself. I've actually watched it happen several times as the temps got lower before I winterized.

 

[Capn_AJ5]

[MENTION=51252]COGrandDes[/MENTION] Thank you for this post. I have been searching for a while now to determine how the upgraded Furrion TWH worked while on the road traveling in temperatures below freezing.

We raised enough cane w/GD just after our purchase and learning about the 39° barrier to have our TWH replaced by GD AND we received proper winterization instructions with the new unit. And then I realized there were no instructions on what to do when traveling in freezing temps.

I'm happy to hear you have tested this feature. I was about to order a 12v heater/fan with a thermostat to plug in and have running while we are traveling (in Texas) in freezing temps.

 

[KIMandALLEN1988]

[MENTION=51252]COGrandDes[/MENTION] Thank you for this post. I have been searching for a while now to determine how the upgraded Furrion TWH worked while on the road traveling in temperatures below freezing.

We raised enough cane w/GD just after our purchase and learning about the 39° barrier to have our TWH replaced by GD AND we received proper winterization instructions with the new unit. And then I realized there were no instructions on what to do when traveling in freezing temps.

I'm happy to hear you have tested this feature. I was about to order a 12v heater/fan with a thermostat to plug in and have running while we are traveling (in Texas) in freezing temps.

We recently traveled from Indiana to rural Nevada with many days below freezing with snow on the ground. While it is not what we originally ordered, our Furrion tankless water heater functioned flawlessly. I have much more confidence now it its cold weather/cold travel use.

 

[gto1970]

I have a new 2024 grand design that is plugged into 30 amp at all times . with the furrion tankless water heater . I leave it at our ranch where it gets in the twenties at night . I always shut off the water pump , propane tanks and open the all the faucets and shower and power off the thermostat When we leave for the week . I only use the trailer on the weekends. Yesterday when I showed up I heard some some sound in the tankless water heater around 7pm . I put everything into operating mode meaning I turned on the propane , water pump etc , powered on the thermostat and went to take shower and the water would not constantly stay hot . It went from hot to cold . Later next day we had hot water and it worked flawlessly all weekend.

 

[Soundsailor]

I have a new 2024 grand design that is plugged into 30 amp at all times . with the furrion tankless water heater . I leave it at our ranch where it gets in the twenties at night . I always shut off the water pump , propane tanks and open the all the faucets and shower and power off the thermostat When we leave for the week . I only use the trailer on the weekends. Yesterday when I showed up I heard some some sound in the tankless water heater around 7pm . I put everything into operating mode meaning I turned on the propane , water pump etc , powered on the thermostat and went to take shower and the water would not constantly stay hot . It went from hot to cold . Later next day we had hot water and it worked flawlessly all weekend.

If the temps are getting into the twenties at night, and there is no heat in the coach, it's quite likely that the water in the heater is freezing. While you appear to have dodged any damage so far, I'd recommend using a compressor to blow out all the water lines including the water heater in between uses.

 

[reubenray]

Will air blow out the water in the mixing bowl?