Furrion Tankless Water Heater - Cold Weather

[Soundsailor]

Will air blow out the water in the mixing bowl?

While I can't say for certain, it would seem to me that if only the hot water feed were open, then yes, assuming sufficient pressure, all of the water in the tankless water heater could be blown out (including the mixing bowl). There have been reports on the forum of folks who ONLY winterize by blowing out their lines and have had no damage. Personally, being a belt and suspenders kind of guy (if one goes the other will still hold up your pants), I first blow out with my compressor and then follow with the pink stuff. Fingers crossed, that approach has worked well so far on my tankless water heater.

 

[gto1970]

Thanks , yes I guess I’ve been lucky . What lines and where do I blow the air ?

That’s a picture of my water heater but it’s rotated for some reason

 

[Soundsailor]

View attachment 49393Thanks , yes I guess I’ve been lucky . What lines and where do I blow the air ?

That’s a picture of my water heater but it’s rotated for some reason

Check your manual, it may be covered under Winterize.

 

[PeterInNH]

HI,

So, I've been following this thread in regards to the Furrion TWH with Model# FWH09AFA-AM as having built in anti-freeze protection. My new 2025 Momentum 28G has Model# FWH09AFA-AB.... Does anyone know what differences, if any, there are with this particular version ?

Thanks !

 

[PeterInNH]

HI,

So, I've been following this thread in regards to the Furrion TWH with Model# FWH09AFA-AM as having built in anti-freeze protection. My new 2025 Momentum 28G has Model# FWH09AFA-AB.... Does anyone know what differences, if any, there are with this particular version ?

Thanks !

Ok, took the leap and called Lippert directly. The rep confirmed that the suffix (-AM or -A essentially means nothing. As long the "AFA" is there before the dash that indicates the board has the Anti-Freeze control.

P

 

[CaptainJustice]

Don't rely on someone else to check your TWH via serial number if you are at possible risk at having a nasty surprise in cold weather. If you have one of these TWH and are curious, the surefire way is to open up the outside cover of your Water Heater, then remove the black plastic panel that covers the board.

View attachment 104123

I've marked the picture above with green circles where there are a couple tabs that need to be lifted to open the cover and expose the board. Once the tabs are lifted (careful not to break the plastic, especially if its cold) the cover should just swing open freely but be slightly attached on a couple of the right side wires. You can open this panel without having to disconnect anything. See below for open panel.

View attachment 104124


Once the cover is open, take a look at the board. There are a couple very minor differences in the gen 1 and gen 2 boards, in the top left by the power connection. Take a look at the capacitor and diode placement that I have circled in red below. The top half of the image is Gen 1 and the bottom is Gen 2 with freeze protection. This is how you can know for sure which you have.

View attachment 104125


For those looking to change theirs out, it really is extremely simple. In fact, if you did the above to check then you've already done the hardest part. After this you simply unplug the cables connected to the board and then plug them into the new board. It's held to the TWH by 4 screws. The wires all come off with little clips and you don't need to rewire anything, just unplug and plug in the clips. The plugs all only fit into one place and if you're uncertain, take a picture of the plugs before you disconnect anything and then reference it while connecting the new one. Changing this out is literally a 15 minute job if you have any comfort level with this type of stuff, and if you don't it's still doable but probably 30 minutes to account for you taking your time.

This description lacks one important point. Look at the connection at the upper left. The white-sheathed black and white wires.
Those are soldered in and you will have to CUT the wires -- leave a lot of length coming off of the board -- and splice into the wires coming from the back of the WH unit. Use good butt splices well-crimped. All of the other ARE unplug/replug, it appears.
Have not done mine yet but I think the splicing of the one pair is needed.