View attachment 49184
Closer view shows some discoloration to the tank but its been almost 3 year and no leaks.
I also pulled the coroplast down between the drain valve and the drive side of the fresh water tank and put 3 feet of foam pipe insulation over that same pex pipe that had froze. And I saw a 2" diameter heat supply duct that ended at the front of the tank but I was able to pull (it stretches) it about a foot closer to the tank drain area. I still need to clamp an amp meter around the positive feed wires to test all those tank heaters and verfiy that they actually work. Tomorrow is good day for that so I will post back with the amperage draw of each tank heater.Pictures are worth a thousand words, now I know why I am frozen up, bottom of tank freezes easy, I mistakenly let the water tank get low and I can guarantee there is an inch of ice coating the bottom of the tank and the water line can’t help but be frozen. I’m going to add a heat trace to the water line and maybe another heat pad next to the inlet
Victory was short lived, I should have filled the water tank last night when I had flow! This morning, back to being frozen up, can't get water into tank. I have an electric heater running right now below the fresh water drain. After half an hour I got the drain valve open. Then I took a 1/4 inch drill bit and drilled into the ice, at least 3 inches thick! Tank heater can't be working. It wasn't super cold last night, about 15 degrees. I will keep electric heater under the tank for a while and see what happens. Then I need to thaw the drain pipe because right now there is a 75% ice blockage from a valve that must be dripping.
Have you physically checked to see if it has 2 gray tanks? Ours shows 2 gray tanks on the panel, but we only have one.
Well, I filled the fresh water tank yesterday and hoped for the best and water is froze up yet again this morning. It is only 13 degrees and there has been plenty of heat in the belly. We leave for home today, so not a big deal especially since it will be above freezing this afternoon. I ordered two new 12x18 heating pads for the fresh water tank and I will install them when I get them. The factory heating pad has obviously quit, I used to have no trouble down to -10.
I found one of the gray tank heaters is not working. There are 2 gray tanks on the 310gk but during the amperage check yesterday, the meter only showed enough amps for one tank heater. So hopefully tomorrow when its a little warmer 53, I will drop the coroplast and check it out. What brand name and where did you order your new heaters from?
I checked them a couple days ago when it was colder, I'm in Colorado. The black tank heater, fresh water tank heater and only one gray tank heater worked. Each one showed about 5 or 6 amps at the batteries when switched on individually. Because there are 2 gray tanks, the amperage should have been double when those heaters were activated. Those tanks are forward of the axles and once the coroplast is lowered the tank heaters should be very visable since they are glued to the bottom of the holding tanks usually near the tank drains. I will try to get pics and post them this weekend.You might know this, but the tank heaters only come on at I think 37 degrees so if its warm out its hard to check them by just turning them on at the control panel. How do you check them under the chloroplast?
Nuffsaid those tank heaters look pretty good and had good reviews. I like that the t-stat is in line to the heater.
When I found the pex from the fresh water tank froze, I removed about 6 or 7 screws from the coroplast along the driver's side frame adjacent to the tank and thats when I saw that 2" diameter heat duct near the front and along the street side of the tank. As I said earlier, it can be stretched almost a foot closer to the fresh tank drain valve but, I believe the reason why the pex froze is because that silver thermo blanket was folded away from the tank. It should have been spread out so that it was under the tank.
If you're going to install those new tank heaters, you'll have to remove a lot more screws from the coroplast to get to that inoperative tank heater. According to those new tank heater specs, each heater pulls about 3.5 amps so the factory switch and feed wire should be ok to use for the 2 heaters as long as that circuit is on at least a 10 amp fuse. Looking forward to hearing about your new tank heaters installation.