Goosebox with M-320G? (newby needs help)

[ldb20151]

I need a solid, low weight hitch option for my new 320 RV that makes it easy to use the truck bed when not on the road with the RV. A smooth ride would also be wonderful. I'm considering either the Anderson Ultimate Hitch or the Reese Goosebox. I'm leaning toward the Goosebox. Anyone have experience with either of these two hitches -- Good or Bad? I have a RAM 3500 with the factory pucks ready to go, but I'm a relative newby so all advice appreciated.
v/r,
-Larry

 

[BadDogPSD]

We went with the Goosebox and are happy with our choice. Gen-Y was tge othe hitch we considered.

 

[traveldawg]

We have a Reese Goosebox. Love it!

Had a RotoFlex originally; changed to a MorRyde; wanted to loose the traditional hitch in the bed (a DEMCO) so got the Goosebox.

Note - I got a long bed so I could use the Goosebox with no worries about camper to cab contact issues.

 

[powerscol]

You have a heavy trailer. Do a search on AUH failures, and also the goosebox. If it were me - the goosebox.

 

[msutoad]

You have a heavy trailer. Do a search on AUH failures, and also the goosebox. If it were me - the goosebox.

I have the goosebox and we love it on our 397TH

 

[BobKilmer]

I have the AUH and am very happy with it. Easy to remove when not in use, has no chucking, and the mount is not vehicle specific like many other hitches. Also easy to connect since I can directly view the ball in the truck bed and the locking mechanism can be accessed standing behind the truck. I have 35,000 towing miles with it and typically tow at around 18,700 pounds with zero issues.

 

[powerscol]

I need a solid, low weight hitch option for my new 320 RV that makes it easy to use the truck bed when not on the road with the RV. A smooth ride would also be wonderful. I'm considering either the Anderson Ultimate Hitch or the Reese Goosebox. I'm leaning toward the Goosebox. Anyone have experience with either of these two hitches -- Good or Bad? I have a RAM 3500 with the factory pucks ready to go, but I'm a relative newby so all advice appreciated.
v/r,
-Larry

I know that many folks love thier AUH, but check with GD and Lippert to be sure it wont void you warranty. I know that the both approve of the goosebox, but not sure on the current warranty situation if you use the AUH.

Just want you to have all the information so you can make an informed decision.

 

[BobKilmer]

I know that many folks love thier AUH, but check with GD and Lippert to be sure it wont void you warranty. I know that the both approve of the goosebox, but not sure on the current warranty situation if you use the AUH.

Just want you to have all the information so you can make an informed decision.

It does not void the warranty. I checked five years ago before I bought it. You also posted about AUH failures. After five years of towing and 35,000 miles I have seen zero issues.

In addition, the AUH comes with the following extended warranty:

"If your active trailer warranty from a trailer-frame manufacturer is denied due to the use of an Andersen Ultimate 5th Wheel Connection (Rail Mount or Gooseneck Mount), you are eligible for coverage under our expanded warranty.

Warranty Summary: Covers damage to the trailer-frame and/or kingpin"

 

[ajg617]

I love the way our Goosebox pulls but we have had air-loss issues for two years. We have blown out two pressure relief valves (one old style, and one newer replacement style). I have a third regulator ready to install but meanwhile I am running DOT approved truck air hose with a TPMS sensor on the end. We are pin heavy (but well under the 4K pin for the 20,000lb Reese) and I set the pressure to 37PSI which centers the bar. I have seen pressures over 50PSI on braking but I've never been able to get a firm answer from Horizon or Reese what the max pressure of the relief valve is before it pops. I believe it is well over 50PSI which secondary sources say is the max. It's not a good feeling when you hear a POP and see the pinbox settle directly on the ball and once the pressure relief valve pops, it must be replaced (at least the new style).

 

[powerscol]

It does not void the warranty. I checked five years ago before I bought it. You also posted about AUH failures. After five years of towing and 35,000 miles I have seen zero issues.

In addition, the AUH comes with the following extended warranty:

"If your active trailer warranty from a trailer-frame manufacturer is denied due to the use of an Andersen Ultimate 5th Wheel Connection (Rail Mount or Gooseneck Mount), you are eligible for coverage under our expanded warranty.

Warranty Summary: Covers damage to the trailer-frame and/or kingpin"

I understand and accept you thoughts. Lot of folks love thier AUH However the OP [MENTION=58756]ldb20151[/MENTION] needs all the information. I have never seen a goose box failure reported anywhere. However for the AUH - Ill let the information speak for itself/ BTW I am a registered engineer and do not like the AUH structural set up. particularly for off center hits like occur in an accident or heavy breaking if the trailer swings out. Again most of these have been with heavy trailers. I have personally seen cracked couplers.
Just a quick search found these - I know I have seen others.

https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/sho...h-failure-(lifted-thread-from-Facebook-group)
https://tinyhousedesign.com/andersen-hitch-failures-should-you-worry-about-it/
https://traveltrailerpro.com/andersen-ultimate-hitch-failures/
https://hdrams.com/forum/index.php?threads/auh-failures.3158/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8rYYxRfGgc - what holds it hitch in place - one bolt.
https://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f12/another-buckled-andersen-172847.html
https://thecampingadvisor.com/andersen-ultimate-hitch-problems/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FlY1ZQt66Og
https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37775&page=3

Again this is just my opinion. I looked at the AUH when I needed a new hitch for my 2022 F350. I was told then by GD and Lippert they did not approve of that hitch or the pullright with the reversed cone https://www.pullrite.com/products/superlite and could void warranty, especially structural to frame and king pin. The set up does put increase stress on the kin pin box and pin due to the coupler. In addition in the truck additional stress is on the goose ball.

Again just my opinion FWIW

 

[BobKilmer]

I understand and accept you thoughts. Lot of folks love thier AUH However the OP [MENTION=58756]ldb20151[/MENTION] needs all the information. I have never seen a goose box failure reported anywhere. However for the AUH - Ill let the information speak for itself/ BTW I am a registered engineer and do not like the AUH structural set up. particularly for off center hits like occur in an accident or heavy breaking if the trailer swings out. Again most of these have been with heavy trailers. I have personally seen cracked couplers.
Just a quick search found these - I know I have seen others.

https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/sho...h-failure-(lifted-thread-from-Facebook-group)
https://tinyhousedesign.com/andersen-hitch-failures-should-you-worry-about-it/
https://traveltrailerpro.com/andersen-ultimate-hitch-failures/
https://hdrams.com/forum/index.php?threads/auh-failures.3158/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8rYYxRfGgc - what holds it hitch in place - one bolt.
https://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f12/another-buckled-andersen-172847.html
https://thecampingadvisor.com/andersen-ultimate-hitch-problems/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FlY1ZQt66Og
https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37775&page=3

Again this is just my opinion. I looked at the AUH when I needed a new hitch for my 2022 F350. I was told then by GD and Lippert they did not approve of that hitch or the pullright with the reversed cone https://www.pullrite.com/products/superlite and could void warranty, especially structural to frame and king pin. The set up does put increase stress on the kin pin box and pin due to the coupler. In addition in the truck additional stress is on the goose ball.

Again just my opinion FWIW

Providing a pile of links does not provide helpful information. If you read the very first link, it is a repeat of a Facebook story that was highly suspicious. Many of the others are the same repeat of the same story. Other articles you referenced provide zero facts, just lots of opinions, and wild statements like "aluminum shouldn't be used for applications like this." Remember that the next time you ride in a modern aircraft. I especially like the one about "the whole hitch is held in place by one bolt" - if he looked at the design of ANY gooseneck connection he would see they are ALL held in place by a ball that protrudes about 1/4" into a small channel!

If someone provides an engineering analysis of the failure rates, failure modes, and design margins versus the design specs that shows an issue, then I would be concerned. Other than that I take every one of these anecdotal inputs with a healthy degree of skepticism.

As a 40 year engineering professional, with degrees in Physics, Math, and Engineering, I don't have concerns with their design. I will stand behind my 35,000 miles towing and 5 years of issue free experience to highly recommend the hitch.

 

[ldb20151]

This is great information. I really appreciate the time everyone took to send this knowledge my way. I'm still trying to digest it all. As traveldawg mentioned, I also bit the bullet and got the long bed truck just to make sure I'd have plenty of clearance/space whatever option I pick. Cap clearance shouldn't be a problem (I'm sure I'll have plenty of others), so I'm still leaning toward the goosebox.

Regarding the Anderson -- my brother-in-law uses one with his (smaller) Reflection and absolutely loves it. In researching these two options, I contacted GD about warranty issues and the GD rep reaffirmed the comments on this forum that the goosebox will not impact their warranty. They were VERY definitive that the goosebox was OK. That said, they were not so clear about the Anderson. I felt like they were trying to avoid a direct answer when I asked the question. The best I could get from them was that the Anderson Ultimate wasn't on Lippert's approved list. I know lots of people have had great luck with them and Anderson appears to have an incredible warranty as well. If the goose wasn't available I might give AUH a shot versus using the traditional 5th wheel. I'm DEFINITELY not lugging a traditional 100-200lb 5th wheel in/out of my truck between seasons.

By the way, it wasn't on my list but GD customer service told me CURT hitches were covered by Lippert and the GD warranty. I've seen a few and know they have something a bit like the Anderson. Since this wasn't something I was considering, I didn't inquire further. CURT makes so many hitch models I'm unsure if all models would be covered or just the traditional 5ths. Just something I thought I'd add since this tidbit didn't come up in any of my research on the web. Perhaps this is a new policy for GD/Lippert?

Regarding the goosebox and pressure loss issues -- with associated popped relief valves. ajg617, do I understand correctly that you have to physically replace the relief valve if it pops? Is that difficult/expensive? Can it be done on the road? If so, that's a concern? Doesn't sound like fun to limp home with a flat airbag given how this thing works. It doesn't make sense that they'd design it that way. There are so many resetable options I can think of. I've also heard of folks bending/breaking bolts but that seems rare. How often do these overpressure valves blow/pop? I'm pretty cautious when it comes to equipment so I'd likely keep it aired up properly and well maintained but if we don't know whats causing the overpressure it'll be hard to avoid/fix.

Thx again everyone! So much to learn.

 

[ajg617]

Regarding the goosebox and pressure loss issues -- with associated popped relief valves. ajg617, do I understand correctly that you have to physically replace the relief valve if it pops? Is that difficult/expensive? Can it be done on the road? If so, that's a concern? Doesn't sound like fun to limp home with a flat airbag given how this thing works. It doesn't make sense that they'd design it that way. There are so many resetable options I can think of. I've also heard of folks bending/breaking bolts but that seems rare. How often do these overpressure valves blow/pop? I'm pretty cautious when it comes to equipment so I'd likely keep it aired up properly and well maintained but if we don't know whats causing the overpressure it'll be hard to avoid/fix.

Thx again everyone! So much to learn.

Can be replaced on the road. I replaced my original Gen2 old style with a new style before our long trip this year. The old style relied on a small ball bearing which had a slow leak in it. The dealership forced me to purchase through them (I had no 5th wheel hitch to take delivery - just factory puck system) and I was never happy with the install or the Goosebox I received. The new relief valve blew out pulling out of fuel stop in Ohio (it was a very awkward drainage dip that I had to cross). I was only two miles from destination and put the old relief valve back in and it held air for the first time for the next 4K miles. Pulled into a temporary site in NC and heard the pop and the ball bearing had blown out. Again, a very awkward position where I had to pull off the road and onto grass and over about a 3" rounded curb when that happened. Found a local truck repair/tow shop in Aberdeen NC and they fixed me up with a DOT approved line with a Schrader valve on the end so I could fill the bladder - standard truck air-brake parts. That is still holding air and I'll probably leave it until we get out to GD's repair facility in April where they will be checking for excessive flex in the cross frame where the wings are attached to.

If you order the Goosebox now, you will probably get a Gen3 with the newer style relief valve. I have no problems driving with either - pulls smooth, almost no chucking, and no hitch in the truck - just a gooseball. If there was any knock on the Goosebox (very few), it was pressure loss with the old style relief valve but I would buy it again. Pictures below.

Old style



New style replacement

 

[ldb20151]

Can be replaced on the road. I replaced my original Gen2 old style with a new style before our long trip this year. The old style relied on a small ball bearing which had a slow leak in it. The dealership forced me to purchase through them (I had no 5th wheel hitch to take delivery - just factory puck system) and I was never happy with the install or the Goosebox I received. The new relief valve blew out pulling out of fuel stop in Ohio (it was a very awkward drainage dip that I had to cross). I was only two miles from destination and put the old relief valve back in and it held air for the first time for the next 4K miles. Pulled into a temporary site in NC and heard the pop and the ball bearing had blown out. Again, a very awkward position where I had to pull off the road and onto grass and over about a 3" rounded curb when that happened. Found a local truck repair/tow shop in Aberdeen NC and they fixed me up with a DOT approved line with a Schrader valve on the end so I could fill the bladder - standard truck air-brake parts. That is still holding air and I'll probably leave it until we get out to GD's repair facility in April where they will be checking for excessive flex in the cross frame where the wings are attached to.

If you order the Goosebox now, you will probably get a Gen3 with the newer style relief valve. I have no problems driving with either - pulls smooth, almost no chucking, and no hitch in the truck - just a gooseball. If there was any knock on the Goosebox (very few), it was pressure loss with the old style relief valve but I would buy it again. Pictures below.

Old style

View attachment 48951

New style replacement

View attachment 48952

Can be replaced on the road -- I'm assuming the new valve version will be "better" but sounds like this will probably remain a weak spot in the design. How difficult is this to change on the road? One or two person job? Looks like you'd need to disconnect for sure. Are spare parts available? Expensive? I expected to travel with my tool box but looks like I might need to travel with a full workshop!
v/r,
-Larry

 

[ajg617]

Can be replaced on the road -- I'm assuming the new valve version will be "better" but sounds like this will probably remain a weak spot in the design. How difficult is this to change on the road? One or two person job? Looks like you'd need to disconnect for sure. Are spare parts available? Expensive? I expected to travel with my tool box but looks like I might need to travel with a full workshop!
v/r
-Larry

Easy replacement hitched or unhitched - think one was 11/16 open end wrench and the other was 3/4 but I can't remember which. I don't think you will have to worry about the old style - would think pretty much everything in stock should be Gen 3. On the Gen 2, the fill was on the underside. On the Gen 3, it's on top (see https://www.reesegoosebox.com/). No hoses on the new style - just a schrader valve built in. Look at [MENTION=11038]traveldawg[/MENTION]'s post on his install - very informative. https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/showthread.php/45940-Reese-Goosebox-install?p=449331#post449331

I don't know of anyone else that has had blown the relief valves. I suspect my problem is either a defective pin box or excessive frame flex. Horizon Global has replaced mine twice now at no cost. I've asked for a replacement Goosebox, but not yet - still working on that. They have to order the relief valves from their Mexico manufacturing facility, ship them to their TX warehouse, than to you so it isn't necessarily timely. As I mentioned, I simply removed the relief valve and put a DOT 1/4 hose and schrader adapter on it - that took about 20 minutes total. If it keeps on holding air, I might not even put the relief valve back in.
regards,
John

 

[jsm180]

I've had a Goosebox since 2018, much better ride than a standard 5th hitch and no clunking on starts and stops. I have not had any issues with air loss. When I sold the old 5th I swapped the Goosebox to the new rig.

I bought an Anderson before I bought the Goosebox but never pulled with it. I was not impressed with the design and it got returned. I did buy a used one last year to get my new to me 5th home. It was much easier than swapping the pin box in the sellers driveway, I only needed to go 80 miles and it got the job done. Sold it for what I paid for it. The Anderson would probably be ok on a light rig.

 

[Victory1]

I have a Gen 3 Goosebox and it works well for me. It has the newer style air valve which hasn't leaked at all but is a bit of a pain to check and fill. I have left the valve in its original position and I need to climb into the bed to add or remove air. Not a big deal but something to consider.

I pull with a short bed Sierra with a B&W Turnoverball hitch. I have about 8 inches of clearance between the trailer and the bed rails and slightly less to the Truxedo Lo Pro tonneau cover rails that I have installed. I can also get pretty close to 90 degrees without hitting the truck or the tonneau rails.

It rides nice and it saves a little weight for cargo. I would go this route again if I were to change rigs.

 

[gmalkussr]

I have the Goosebox and love it. It takes a minute to get used to aligning it when hooking up. However, I found some helpful tools to make the connection easier. Magnetic sticks with tennis balls to align and a camera in my truck bed for side alignment. I travel alone often and it makes the hook up much more doable without a spotter.

 

[msutoad]

I love the way our Goosebox pulls but we have had air-loss issues for two years. We have blown out two pressure relief valves (one old style, and one newer replacement style). I have a third regulator ready to install but meanwhile I am running DOT approved truck air hose with a TPMS sensor on the end. We are pin heavy (but well under the 4K pin for the 20,000lb Reese) and I set the pressure to 37PSI which centers the bar. I have seen pressures over 50PSI on braking but I've never been able to get a firm answer from Horizon or Reese what the max pressure of the relief valve is before it pops. I believe it is well over 50PSI which secondary sources say is the max. It's not a good feeling when you hear a POP and see the pinbox settle directly on the ball and once the pressure relief valve pops, it must be replaced (at least the new style).

Not sure on your generation of Goosebox, but I have the Gen3 now (6 months old) and when I spoke to Reese about max PSI they told me it was 100PSI. I have to put in well over 37 just to get the goose box to lift up and start to put the bar in the middle. Reese said they didnt care about the PSI as much as to have the bar in the middle and I would be fine. So Instead of focusing on the actual PSI, I just watch the window, and it's been good to go for us. Sorry to hear about our pressure relief valve issues.

 

[ajg617]

Not sure on your generation of Goosebox, but I have the Gen3 now (6 months old) and when I spoke to Reese about max PSI they told me it was 100PSI. I have to put in well over 37 just to get the goose box to lift up and start to put the bar in the middle. Reese said they didnt care about the PSI as much as to have the bar in the middle and I would be fine. So Instead of focusing on the actual PSI, I just watch the window, and it's been good to go for us. Sorry to hear about our pressure relief valve issues.

Gen2 but an early one. Later Gen2s came with the new style manifold. 37psi centers the bar for me but air leaks out over time. Can't find the leak.