Well, mostly anyway
I had to cut the underbelly (coroplast) to get to my stuck gray water waste valve for the kitchen sink. After looking at what it would take to unbolt the coroplast (too many gas lines to be messing with for my taste. I decided to cut it "strategically". I made the cut perpendicular to the trailer length, about 4' wide and a little over 1/2 the width of the trailer. Before doing anything else I then added some old 3" wide x 3/4" thick furring strips between the frame rails (full length resting on the lips of the frame rails) and screwed them on each side of the cuts with 1/2 inch flat head wood screws.
View attachment 50658
Then I removed the gate valve, bench tested it - and it worked just fine (go figure
). Greased it up good with silicone grease, lubed the cable up with silicone spray and the luber then reinstalled. I then buttoned it up by screwing to the furring strips again.
View attachment 50659
I then taped over the cuts and screws with this Tape

I added more tape to the leading edge help prevent it coming loose. I did use a heat gun to warm up the tape after adding it to the underbelly and pressed it down well. The valve works just fine after being reinstalled. I think the original problem was when closing it in the fall after winterizing, the flimsy cable mount bent back, moving the cable enough so it caused too much drag.
I had to cut the underbelly (coroplast) to get to my stuck gray water waste valve for the kitchen sink. After looking at what it would take to unbolt the coroplast (too many gas lines to be messing with for my taste. I decided to cut it "strategically". I made the cut perpendicular to the trailer length, about 4' wide and a little over 1/2 the width of the trailer. Before doing anything else I then added some old 3" wide x 3/4" thick furring strips between the frame rails (full length resting on the lips of the frame rails) and screwed them on each side of the cuts with 1/2 inch flat head wood screws.
View attachment 50658
Then I removed the gate valve, bench tested it - and it worked just fine (go figure
View attachment 50659
I then taped over the cuts and screws with this Tape

I added more tape to the leading edge help prevent it coming loose. I did use a heat gun to warm up the tape after adding it to the underbelly and pressed it down well. The valve works just fine after being reinstalled. I think the original problem was when closing it in the fall after winterizing, the flimsy cable mount bent back, moving the cable enough so it caused too much drag.
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