Headscratcher: 2024 398M Main AC cure:

Dive Bar Casanova

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2019
Messages
211
For some odd reason GD decide to bypass the direct airflow on the main AC. Duct only.
Completely defeats the unique and fantastic feature of the Coleman Stealth AC system being able to blast the cold air directly to the main room/kitchen on a super hot day, vent it to the ducts for quiet operation.

"Ya just remove the plug" was the answer from GD.
Nope, more to it.

You remove the plug, then a purchased separately partition goes in:
GNq1ejm.jpg
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https://i.imgur.com/GNq1ejm.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/AKB2aJj.jpg

Then a purchased separately different airflow directing base is installed:
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[/IMG]

https://i.imgur.com/xVO4nGN.jpg

Then ya put the original or the included with the new base purchase cover on:
LDCKzRa.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/LDCKzRa.jpg

Good to go:
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Way way more cooling air flow being able to open the registers at the unit than directing it through the ducts.

Maybe on a warm day you are good with duct flow only, but in the heat of the Southwest we open up the direct discharge.
Our last 398M came OK without the plug as is my sons and all our friends. Why GD did this is a real head scratcher and it ain't we always did it that way.

Also the AC unit sounded like when as a kid, you'd clothespin a playing card on your bike to slap against the spokes.

That annoying noise was loose wiring and a big stringy glob of sealant flapping around inside the ac unit intake plenum. Secured the wiring, trimmed the sealant annoying noise gone.

So now, onto the Refers annoying door not closed alarm when in-fact the door is closed. Internet remedies aren't working nor is NorCold customer service any help what so ever.
 
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For some odd reason GD decide to bypass the direct airflow on the main AC. Duct only.
Completely defeats the unique and fantastic feature of the Coleman Stealth AC system being able to blast the cold air directly to the main room/kitchen on a super hot day, vent it to the ducts for quiet operation.


Way way more cooling air flow being able to open the registers at the unit than directing it through the ducts.

Maybe on a warm day you are good with duct flow only, but in the heat of the Southwest we open up the direct discharge.
Our last 398M came OK without the plug as is my sons and all our friends. Why GD did this is a real head scratcher and it ain't we always did it that way.

Also the AC unit sounded like when as a kid, you'd clothespin a playing card on your bike to slap against the spokes.

That annoying noise was loose wiring and a big stringy glob of sealant flapping around inside the ac unit intake plenum. Secured the wiring, trimmed the sealant annoying noise gone.

So now, onto the Refers annoying door not closed alarm when in-fact the door is closed. Internet remedies aren't working nor is NorCold customer service any help what so ever.

Opening the quick dumps actually defeats the whole purpose of the Coleman race track ducting...

You could put a cheap direct vent unit in, if that's all you want it to do. Did you get the three a/c units?

The RV Airflow kit has been a great standard feature for 95% of the buying population. Many more adding it to their existing systems.

I guess as long as it works for you....
 
Baloney.

It doesn't defeat, it gives you the option either thru the ducts or direct blast to the room as intended.

Closing the direct blast registers re-directs the airflow to the ducts as intended by Coleman.
Blows just as strong thru the ducts and it did with the plug in.

Now I have the option.

ONLY a GD rep/vendor/ supplier would come in with a WRONG take like that.
You're giving bad information.
 
Baloney.

It doesn't defeat, it gives you the option either thru the ducts or direct blast to the room as intended.

Closing the direct blast registers re-directs the airflow to the ducts as intended by Coleman.
Blows just as strong thru the ducts and it did with the plug in.

Now I have the option.

ONLY a GD rep/vendor/ supplier would come in with a WRONG take like that.
You're giving bad information.

Differing opinions are fine here, but please remember our "Be Nice" rule when commenting!
 
Differing opinions are fine here, but please remember our "Be Nice" rule when commenting!

I understand this but let me say where I'm coming from.

Just an example of many examples:
We'll be camped and someone else in the camp area with our style rig knocks on the door with a question.

Their batteries go dead over night because the factory sound system amps won't turn off when the sound system is turned off.

Dealer said it's normal run the generator, they ask in the RV forums and the only people telling them they are the problem or there is no problem are Vendors, Suppliers or RV reps.
We showed them to simply move the AMPs power wire from a always hot to a switched connection.
Problem solved.

Get this all the time and its always Vendors, suppliers or factory or dealer reps with the "Nothing wrong or it's your fault" take.
So I push back.

Hopefully the information posted tells owners how to correct the issue. Is a bad idea by GD to so this.
Many 398M rigs in our group, friends, my sons and our past 398 M,, not one had the block all all the option every one loves it.

I figured a bad info post would appear by at least the 6th or 7th post. I got that part wrong.

44 years in this business, I know what I'm talking about.

The Colman Stealth System is far the most superior, strongest, coldest and cleverest and most reliable system if installed right. Off the charts better than any other system on the market.
If their is mistake, I'm calling them out.
 
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I understand this but let me say where I'm coming from.

Just an example of many examples:
We'll be camped and someone else in the camp area with our style rig knocks on the door with a question.

Their batteries go dead over night because the factory sound system amps won't turn off when the sound system is turned off.

Dealer said it's normal run the generator, they ask in the RV forums and the only people telling them they are the problem or there is no problem are Vendors, Suppliers or RV reps.
We showed them to simply move the AMPs power wire from a always hot to a switched connection.
Problem solved.

Get this all the time and its always Vendors, suppliers or factory or dealer reps with the "Nothing wrong or it's your fault" take.
So I push back.

Hopefully the information posted tells owners how to correct the issue. Is a bad idea by GD to so this.
Many 398M rigs in our group, friends, my sons and our past 398 M,, not one had the block all all the option every one loves it.

I figured a bad info post would appear by at least the 6th or 7th post. I got that part wrong.

44 years in this business, I know what I'm talking about.

The Colman Stealth System is far the most superior, strongest, coldest and cleverest and most reliable system if installed right. Off the charts better than any other system on the market.
If their is mistake, I'm calling them out.

And like I said in my previous post........differing opinions are fine, but when they become borderline, one or more of the moderators here will likely warn the person. If it is definitely over the be nice line, that person will definitely get a warning. My first comment is a gentle reminder to remember the rules when posting.
 
We don't have the Coleman racetrack ducting, however I like the idea of having the option to use the "dump" to quickly cool down the area, and then close that vent and use the racetrack feature for the quieter running. I do wonder why they don't offer it that way?
 
The ceiling race track does have its negatives as well.... one being the hot air that is generated inside the ceiling from the very sparse insulated roof - which gets discharged thru the vents every time the AC cycles (on) the initial air thru the race track system. The pro is the quiteness for sure.

As @Hoopy stated, a built in dump bypass for the ACs equiped with RV Airflow would be advantageous for those wanting direct AC in an area.

Note: It would be nice if some manufacturer would make a thermostat that can communicate with the other (like) thermostats within the trailer to auto adjust the perspective AC unit cooling directed into the race ducts. Was hoping Micro-Aire EasyTouch thermostats would eventually do so. This would be a fantastic upgrade IMO!
 
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We don't have the Coleman racetrack ducting, however I like the idea of having the option to use the "dump" to quickly cool down the area, and then close that vent and use the racetrack feature for the quieter running. I do wonder why they don't offer it that way?

Are you sure you don't have the racetrack ducting? We have a 2018 Momentum 394 and it has it. I thought is was standard equipment even in the 2018 model year.
 
Are you sure you don't have the racetrack ducting? We have a 2018 Momentum 394 and it has it. I thought is was standard equipment even in the 2018 model year.
I guess I can't really say for sure, but if I open the "dump" vent on mine, I get lots of air, but there's also air flow from the vents in the bathroom and bedroom. I'm not sure what I should look for. It is a fairly noisy unit, but maybe that's because I have the "dump" vent open?
 
I guess I can't really say for sure, but if I open the "dump" vent on mine, I get lots of air, but there's also air flow from the vents in the bathroom and bedroom. I'm not sure what I should look for. It is a fairly noisy unit, but maybe that's because I have the "dump" vent open?

Do you have any round ceiling vents? That would be the dead give away......
 
The ceiling race track does have its negatives as well.... one being the hot air that is generated inside the ceiling from the very sparse insulated roof - which gets discharged thru the vents every time the AC cycles (on) the initial air thru the race track system. The pro is the quiteness for sure.

As @Hoopy stated, a built in dump bypass for the ACs equiped with RV Airflow would be advantageous for those wanting direct AC in an area.

Note: It would be nice if some manufacturer would make a thermostat that can communicate with the other (like) thermostats within the trailer to auto adjust the perspective AC unit cooling directed into the race ducts. Was hoping Micro-Aire EasyTouch thermostats would eventually do so. This would be a fantastic upgrade IMO!

Can you please explain what you mean by the above statement that I've put in bold? The A/C system is a closed loop type system that does not draw any air from outside of the ductwork or from out side of the trailer,.....although I'm guessing that there is at least some small amount of air infiltration from the outside.
 
I guess I can't really say for sure, but if I open the "dump" vent on mine, I get lots of air, but there's also air flow from the vents in the bathroom and bedroom. I'm not sure what I should look for. It is a fairly noisy unit, but maybe that's because I have the "dump" vent open?

The fact that you get at least some air from the bathroom and bedroom vents is proof that you do in fact have the raceway/ducting in your trailer. Even with the dump vents open, at least some portion of that air is going to flow through the ductwork and out the other vents that are located throughout the trailer.
 
Can you please explain what you mean by the above statement that I've put in bold? The A/C system is a closed loop type system that does not draw any air from outside of the ductwork or from out side of the trailer,.....although I'm guessing that there is at least some small amount of air infiltration from the outside.

The RV ceilings in direct sunlight gets super-heated and like any attic space build up heat throughout. Given the limited space in a RV attic, and those race tracks being there, they will collect heat from the surrounding attic space. I can feel it touching the ceiling of my RV just from sitting out in the sun and I have RV Armor treatment on mine.

If there is say a 5+ min time between AC cycles, have felt warmed air exit the ceiling vents in my RV prior to having the cooled AC indoor air coming out of the vents.
 
The fact that you get at least some air from the bathroom and bedroom vents is proof that you do in fact have the raceway/ducting in your trailer. Even with the dump vents open, at least some portion of that air is going to flow through the ductwork and out the other vents that are located throughout the trailer.
There's a lot of air coming into the bathroom and bedroom even with the "dump" vent open. I usually close the vent in the bathroom as it gets too cool for me. There's usually quite a bit of cool air coming into the bedroom too. Except for very hot days, the living room AC is about all that needs to be operating.
 
There's a lot of air coming into the bathroom and bedroom even with the "dump" vent open. I usually close the vent in the bathroom as it gets too cool for me. There's usually quite a bit of cool air coming into the bedroom too. Except for very hot days, the living room AC is about all that needs to be operating.

We get alot of air from the bath vent too... mainly from the bedroom AC race track run. We ended up leaving ours opened (closed when shower used) to help out with the cycling of our 2 ACs. Plus, it helps circulate/push-out the higher trapped warmed ceiling air that collects in the bathroom. Also helps with the humidity of taking a shower too... but so does running the ceiling fan when showering.
 
The RV ceilings in direct sunlight gets super-heated and like any attic space build up heat throughout. Given the limited space in a RV attic, and those race tracks being there, they will collect heat from the surrounding attic space. I can feel it touching the ceiling of my RV just from sitting out in the sun and I have RV Armor treatment on mine.

If there is say a 5+ min time between AC cycles, have felt warmed air exit the ceiling vents in my RV prior to having the cooled AC indoor air coming out of the vents.

OK, I understand what you are saying now, but wouldn't that be true with any ducted system on any brand RV? In your initial post, I guess I thought that you meant that the hot attic air was somehow being sucked into the ductwork in the attic, and that is why I mentioned it being a closed loop system of sorts. After your clarification for me, I realize that you are just referring to the fact that the ductwork air is just being heated somewhat from the surrounding attic air.
 

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