Heat Question

LO

lowfly

Guest
When I turn the heat on the air begins to flow and the furnace ignites within about 1 minute as it should. When it reaches the desired temperature the furnace shuts off but the a/c fan NEVER does. It will run forever until you shut off the system. Does yours operate this way??
 
The Dometic digital thermostat is a dual zone stat for a/c only. Heat will only operate on 1 zone.

Make sure you have the fan mode set to "auto" instead of "low" or "high" and the A/C fan will not come on.

Do not reprogram your stat......
 
Are you mixing up the propane furnace which uses the flood heat registers with the heat pump located in the air conditioner ( heater located in the air conditioner) that pumps heat through the ceiling registers? I have a solitude with a similar heat system but I can't help you out since I don't understand the problem you are having.

By the way, the heat pump only works epwhen the outside temp is higher than 32F degrees.
 
[quote author=huntr70 link=topic=213.msg1302#msg1302 date=1388188572]
The Dometic digital thermostat is a dual zone stat for a/c only. Heat will only operate on 1 zone.

Make sure you have the fan mode set to "auto" instead of "low" or "high" and the A/C fan will not come on.

Do not reprogram your stat......
[/quote]

Hunter70 is correct the same happens on the Columbus as well set it to auto and let it flow.
 
We appear to have 6 cold air ducts in our living area (kitchen and lounge) of our Solitude and only 2 heat registers under the island. When we turn on the heat, the bedroom and bathroom heat up quickly but the living area doesn't. It is quite cold. Has anyone else run into this problem and/or have any solutions?
 
I'm wondering if they intended for the fire place heater to take care of the living room.
 
There is a heat outlet register at the floor at each end of the kitchen island, one of mine had some silver duct tape covering it that I was told to remove as it had been left on by mistake! The six registers on the floor at the front of the living area are just openings into the luggage compartment for cold air return to the LP furnace. I think a better design would be for the furnace, which is under a shelf for the water heater, to be enclosed and have a couple of largish flexible ducts run directly to the registers so I wouldn't always feel cold air from the luggage compartment coming into my living area. We have a heat pump and I have covered these openings until I need to use the LP furnace.
 
Mine has a similar issue with heating the bedroom a lot, and the living room a little. I pulled the basement apart over the weekend and see the following:
The living room is heated with 2-4" ducts that go to the island - I would guess that it goes to one plenum that feeds both ducts.
The Bedroom/Bathroom/basement are also fed with 2-4"ducts that feed the plenum. The plenum then feeds the two ducts and the vent to the basement.
The underfloor is fed with a 3 or 4" duct that goes under.
The plumbing station is fed with a 2" duct that is also tied into the underfloor system which is fed by a 4" duct. I was going to take pictures, but I forgot!
All of the returns feed into the area between the basement walls and the floor/stairwell ducts. They are open and are just empty draw spaces.

I am going to look at connecting two of the return registers to one of the 4" ducts that feed the bedroom/bathroom area. Since the heat is already heading upstairs by transfer, I think it would work better. Plus I like my bedroom cooler than the rest of the trailer. I'm going to look and see if I can put registers at one or more of the ducts and heat the entry way area. I believe that it would give enough space between the send and the return registers that I would be effective. I would cap off the other 4" opening at the bedroom/bathroom register.
Ct..
 
Grand Design told me that there is minimum amount of square inches for return air ducting (via the 6 registers into the basement) to prevent the furnace from kicking off. And of course doing anything to restrict the flow from the furnace to the heat put registers can do the same thing.
 
Mine has a similar issue with heating the bedroom a lot, and the living room a little. I pulled the basement apart over the weekend and see the following:
The living room is heated with 2-4" ducts that go to the island - I would guess that it goes to one plenum that feeds both ducts.
The Bedroom/Bathroom/basement are also fed with 2-4"ducts that feed the plenum. The plenum then feeds the two ducts and the vent to the basement.
The underfloor is fed with a 3 or 4" duct that goes under.
The plumbing station is fed with a 2" duct that is also tied into the underfloor system which is fed by a 4" duct. I was going to take pictures, but I forgot!
All of the returns feed into the area between the basement walls and the floor/stairwell ducts. They are open and are just empty draw spaces.

I am going to look at connecting two of the return registers to one of the 4" ducts that feed the bedroom/bathroom area. Since the heat is already heading upstairs by transfer, I think it would work better. Plus I like my bedroom cooler than the rest of the trailer. I'm going to look and see if I can put registers at one or more of the ducts and heat the entry way area. I believe that it would give enough space between the send and the return registers that I would be effective. I would cap off the other 4" opening at the bedroom/bathroom register.
Ct..

I just spent a few days removing the underbelly to find about 15 feet of extra 4" duct scrunched up restricting air flow to the island registers. I also added another 4" duct to the island as the heater had two more ports available and a ton more insulation to the underbelly and what a difference!
 
Hey Bruce! I just dropped the coroplast on my 315 and found some of the same things. The reflective insulation ended at the rear axle leaving the last 12 feet or so with none.

What did you use for added insulation?
 

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