Here is what GD customer service said today about the Andersen Hitch

Polkadotti

Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2018
Posts
29
Rig: 150 series 230RL, Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 6.7

I have had some help from this forum and I feel I have earned an accelerated Master's Degree in hitches this past couple of days. I simply want that Andersen hitch for all the reasons everyone else chose the unit, and even if I went with the rail version, which would be way less expensive, in my mind it would still be better than the hunk of heavy metal which will be a pain for me, literally.

BUT BUT BUT. I called Grand Design today to confirm that using the hitch will not void the warranty, as I simply wanted to cross my Ts and dot the Is for my own peace of mind. My first encounter was a terrible rep who kept telling me over and over they do not recommend hitches, but I hadn't even gotten out the question, so I asked for his boss. Next up was a supervisor who stated the Andersen Hitch will not void the warranty, lots of customers use it, blah blah blah. But he didn't seem very knowledgeable about the issue and didn't give me a sense of confidence, so I asked for his boss and was given an email address. I did actually complain about the first guy, because he really was rude and he was the first person I have talked to at GD and I was disappointed. I relayed that info and asked the hitch question again.

The 3rd guy wrote me back, and I quote "The Andersen hitch does not void the warranty, however, we do not recommend the hitch for a couple of reasons. Primarily, a gooseneck hitch places undue stress at the kingpin of the pin box and can result in issues with the upper deck structure. This is true of any 5th wheel product regardless of the line or manufacturer. My prior employer was a frame manufacturer and I assure you, the Andersen hitch can do damage to your upper deck structure."

Further down the email he added, "The Andersen hitch is a gooseneck ball connection and there are no approved gooseneck hitches for the Lippert Turning Point pin box."

I guess I don't see the problem. I am not an engineer, but the problem of a traditional gooseneck connection makes sense to me in terms of stress--though the guy I called today for installation, who is an Andersen dealer told me to get the BW gooseneck, a coupler and move on down the road. I don't like that solution. But the Andersen hitch is elevated and that angle and stress has to be virtually eliminated. Further, why would GD not ditch the warranty coverage for those customers using the Andersen hitch if they felt so strongly about stress on the upper deck?

I like it when things are more clear. I called E-trailer today and got the same gooseneck BS story, when it is clear the Andersen product is different than a traditional gooseneck. I called Pullrite and discussed their product, the Superlite and their rep was concerned about the 6.5 bed size on my truck and he could not guarantee an appropriate turning radius. I called Andersen, and didn't learn anything new from the rep, unfortunately.

So my accelerated Master's Degree in hitches I felt I earned now feels like a total over analysis situation and not an education at all. What say you? I am a little bummed actually. I just want something that is easy for me to handle, and after all of the phone calls, I felt my options seriously dwindled. It's simply difficult to buy a product the manufacturer states may damage your rig.
 
You have learned a very valuable lesson, not in hitches, but in liability prevention in the RV industry. I ran into similar non-information when doing an axle replacement. But after talking to many different folks and getting slightly educated I soon learned how to weed out the idiots that don't have a clue but want to sell you something and could tell pretty quickly when somebody know what they are talking about. I learned not to ask for a recommendation but to ask for an opinion.

There are a couple of engineers on the forum, perhaps if you posted a picture of the difference between the Anderson hitch and traditional goose neck you mentioned they could put some science on it.
 
I too have a 230RL that I pull with a Ford F250, 6.7L Diesel with 6 3/4' bed. I originally bought a Curt A16 5th wheel hitch and used the turning point hitch with the Curt wedge. I have since purchased a Andersen Ultimate rail version hitch and so far I like it. The only difference I can tell with the Andersen is there is NO chucking, bucking, squeaking, the hitching procedure is 20 times easier, and the ride is much smoother. The main reason I went to the Andersen was the difference in weight that saves my back and helps my payload capacity. I don't believe much of what your 3rd representative said in his email. If GD didn't want us to utilize the Andersen, they would state that in their manuals and deny any warranty claims to those who choose to use them.
 
I agree. I have an appointment to have the B&W turn over ball installed and will then add the Andersen Ultimate to save my back and to have a flush truck bed for my backcountry camping needs.
 
Problem with the Andersen is the offset coupler thats needed for the ball. I have a Morryde pin box and Morryde recommends a special gooseneck plate be attached to the underside of their box to keep the bottom plate from flexing. I'm guessing thats why Lippert says no. Must be that the plate where the pin is welded to is too thin.
 
As far as warranty goes they may not have to say using something will void your warranty. If they can prove damage was caused by something you were using and not because of their product or workmanship then they don't have to warranty it.
 
I agree. I have an appointment to have the B&W turn over ball installed and will then add the Andersen Ultimate to save my back and to have a flush truck bed for my backcountry camping needs.

Exactly what & why I did this (B&W/Anderson) on my Chevy. 3 or 4 years and a few thousand miles without issue (way beyond Lippert's 1 yr. Warranty, right?). Only hitch I've used so can't compare to traditional. Got a new F350 with factory hitch and will be doing the same, except will turn the ball mount on the 5'er to better clear the taller Ford bedrails on sharp turns. Have yet to test.
 
As far as warranty goes they may not have to say using something will void your warranty. If they can prove damage was caused by something you were using and not because of their product or workmanship then they don't have to warranty it.

That is the law under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. They must prove it was the cause to deny a warranty claim. Technically they could be sued if they state otherwise and the government was cracking down on the auto & RV industry about such statements a year or so ago on this. Andersen also has an insurance policy that would cover the even that LCI denied a claim due to the hitch.

I've used the AUH in my 2500HD and also in the F350. It is a great hitch that fits a niche in the market. No issues and wouldn't hesitate to use it again (but also very happy with my Demco autoslider).
 
"I called Pullrite and discussed their product, the Superlite and their rep was concerned about the 6.5 bed size on my truck and he could not guarantee an appropriate turning radius."

Be very careful of this measurement. As you have the short bed with the Anderson you will not be able to use the turning point feature. I went through the same search and decide on the Reese Titan R20 unit. It can be easily taken apart to install and remove. I can also get the slider rails if I ever get a SB. Its tight with no chucking or noise and takes up less room than the Anderson. I did a write up on the Reese too.

Lastly look at the Anderson failures that have happened and the situation they occurred. I have yet to see a failure on the Reese or the B&W which is also an excellent unit.

Good luck
 
... I have yet to see a failure on the Reese or the B&W which is also an excellent unit.

Good luck


All you gotta do is a google search and you'll see 'em.

All hitches, no matter the brand, owner loyalty or internet hype will have someone reporting a failure at some point or another.
 
In the past I went through research and discussion of various hitches and decided for simplicity and stability to go with the B&W companion. Yes it's heavy, too heavy for me, so I installed an electric hoist from HF in my garage. With the hoist I can lift it up, move the truck out of the way, lower the B&W onto a furniture dolly and store in the garage. My style of travel is such that I'm not going to be removing the hitch on a trip so this works best for me. Benefit is I don't have to worry about excessive torsional stresses on the trailer or truck.

Hitches seem to be like oil, tire and truck threads in that individuals will defend to the death their choice, right or wrong.
 
Here you go. All your problems solved. Keeps your frame warranty intact, clean bed at all times, no non-stop install/uninstall of a heavy hitch. Just set it on the gooseneck ball to tow and lift it off when you get there.

https://www.amazon.com/DRAW-TITE-94622-Gooseneck-Coupler/dp/B007Q1F3NU/ref=sr_1_2/140-7372512-2289732?ie=UTF8&qid=1548773608&sr=8-2&keywords=reese+goosebox

I too have been researching like crazy the last few days looking for a setup for my Reflection 150 series, we just bought and haven’t picked up yet, with the turning point pinbox. From what I have read this Reese system will not mount in place of the Lippert Turning Point due to the design of how the factory pinbox mounts. If anyone can confirm or deny this it would be appreciated.
 
Problem with the Andersen is the offset coupler thats needed for the ball. I have a Morryde pin box and Morryde recommends a special gooseneck plate be attached to the underside of their box to keep the bottom plate from flexing. I'm guessing thats why Lippert says no. Must be that the plate where the pin is welded to is too thin.

Sounds like what is recommended for the Trailair Rotaflex for which Anderson makes a simple inexpensive kit to solve, I'll bet something similar is available for the Morryde

I agree. I have an appointment to have the B&W turn over ball installed and will then add the Andersen Ultimate to save my back and to have a flush truck bed for my backcountry camping needs.

I have the identical set-up and so far it has proved to be an excellent combo. One suggestion made to me by the installer, when and if you remove the hitch for daily use etc., remove the ball in the bed instead of turning it over, kind of defeats the purpose, but the installer said he has seen several balls stolen and they are not cheap.
 
Okay, this is a simple physics problem involving a lever. The common gooseneck conversion for a fifth wheel involves an adapter that goes 90 degrees straight down to the ball sticking just above the truck bed. Hey, if you're out of your warranty you might not care because lots of folks get on fine with these. Understand though, that adapter functions as a lever attached to your pin, and pulls against the frame.

I think the reason that Lippert actually allowed the Reese Goose Box was that it did not do this. Instead it came down at a proper angle, like your fifth wheel connection does. The Andersen version uses an adapter that keeps the connection point the same height as your pin (no additional leverage against your frame). So I don't see how it could damage the frame.
 
I have a Curt hitch, with the puck system, it sounds like it is going to rip out the bed of the truck. 2017 Ram 3500. I am are very unhappy, I can't pull the slider bar to extend it. And I have to have a crane to get it out of the truck. I want to use the truck for other things. so I have been looking at Anderson.
 
Double check your puck system is locked at all points. There should be no noise there. I have the Reese Titan R20 that can be easily removed in 3 pieces. Its a rail system unit so you would need the puck to rail adapter Reese makes. If you need a slider there is a slider base available for it that will fir the same rail system.
Just food for thought.
 
I too have been researching like crazy the last few days looking for a setup for my Reflection 150 series, we just bought and haven’t picked up yet, with the turning point pinbox. From what I have read this Reese system will not mount in place of the Lippert Turning Point due to the design of how the factory pinbox mounts. If anyone can confirm or deny this it would be appreciated.
So Smurph what’s the verdict? Can you use the Reese afterall?
Does anyone know if the Andersen will work with the Turning Point Hitch?
If not, can the Mor/Ryde rubber pinbox replace it, or does it have the same mounting problem as the Reese?


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So Smurph what’s the verdict? Can you use the Reese afterall?
Does anyone know if the Andersen will work with the Turning Point Hitch?
If not, can the Mor/Ryde rubber pinbox replace it, or does it have the same mounting problem as the Reese?


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Regarding swapping the turning point for the goosebox I still came up with the same answer from several online searches. However I did not call Lippert or Reese to confirm. Mainly because I choose not to go that direction.

As far as the turning point hitch with the Anderson, you can not utilize the turning point feature with the Anderson. The turning point hitch requires a wedge plate to lock the kingpin against the fifth wheel forcing the pivot point where the pin box meets the trailer. With that being said there are numerous people running the Anderson hitch with this pinbox in the locked position essentially making it a traditional pinbox. With the offset capable setups of the Anderson many are reporting that they have plenty clearance to the cab. Obviously it all comes down to truck/trailer combination.

Never looked into swapping to the rubber pin box style. If I were going through the trouble of swapping pin boxes I would probably just get the goosbox setup.
 
I am in the same boat, spinning my head going no where. This is my dilemma, My truck is a Ford F250 short bed towing my new Solitude s class 5th wheel 2930 rl using my clunky noise Pullrite superglide hitch. The plan was to alleviate all the weight and to free bed space when not towing by changing it to Pullrite Super lite hitch. Has anyone changed to this setup ?
 

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