High Hitch and Pull Test definations

powerscol

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Been reading through the forums and I want to say thanks for all the information,

Questions (I did a search but got a lot of reply's that did not answer my questions.

What is the proper way to do a pull test?

I have an older 15K Reese hitch with the handle that pulls out the side. I normally have it pulled out and back in, then close it, after dropping the trailer weight on it. I can also back in with it closed but not locked. I then visually check that the jaws are closed before locking. In mu case that means the handle is fully in and I can drop the latch over the handle in the slot provided the installing a safety clip. I then usually lift the trailer using the front jacks to make sure it is locked (truck bed is lifted slightly). Been doing this for 18 years with no issues.

High hitch - have not heard this, but is it when the king pin is above the locking jaws.

The reason I ask is when picking up the new trailer I was slightly off center backing in with the hitch closed. King pin ran along the side of the hitch opening. It appeared to latch, but not fully (handle was about 1/2 inch from lock position) The service man that did the walk through with me had the king pin slightly lower than what I normally do so it road up and into the hitch. It took several try's before it locked normally.

Thoughts?

On edit - the hitch instructions say to back in with the jaws closed but not locked - so I re learned something.
 
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To start with I have a 16K PullRite Super Glide, when I back under the pin box I have the locking lever pulled out and jaws open. It works best if the leading edge of the capture plate hits the 5th wheel plate right at the bend in the 5th wheel plate, as I continue backing the pin box slides up the 5th wheel plate and the king pin trips a lever and the jaws will lock. If I hit too high the jaws won't lock too low the pin box won't slide up the 5th wheel plate. . . . . hope this helps. . . .
 
So how do you test that it is locked? Do you pull forward slightly with the front jacks still down?
 
I have an old fashioned Reese hitch, it's a beast rated for 24k. Not much automatic to it, I slide the pin into the slot with the top of the hitch level with the slide plate on the king pin, when it bumps I stop. The teeth are closed manually, bar slides in. Latch bar folds down into a notch on the slide bar to keep it in place. Mine is over tight and requires a hammer to make it fold down into place, likewise releasing it. I though about fixing this, but really like the idea that it takes a goodly amount of effort to "unlock" the hitch. See the thread about dropping at 60 mph
.
I then turn the flashlight on my cell phone and visually inspect the placement of the hitch teeth on the king pin. Teeth wrapped around the skinny part of the hitch pin and touching each other. Fat part of king pin under teeth. Anything else and it's not hitched.

I don't lift the RV, cant see that what would prove anything. I understand that doing it gently will not cause any harm.

Put truck into gear, idle forward the truck is stopped by the trailer, anything more and you run the risk of bending landing gear.

7 years of 5th wheels and I am still in the "hasn't happened to me yet" category.
 
So how do you test that it is locked? Do you pull forward slightly with the front jacks still down?

Sorry, got interrupted by phone call. . . . . so after the hitch is locked I retract the front landing just a little 1/2" - 1", then using the break controller I apply full breaking the trailer breaks and give the truck a little gas (diesel). . . . .
 
Same here.

I retract (actually, that's on Barbara's side of the checklist [emoji16]) the landing gear just so there's a little gap from the foot to the ground. Then I try to pull forward.

I don't want to leave the landing gear foot on the ground, since it might catch and bend the landing gear.

Dave




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