How do I winterize 303rls?

D

dpkinney

Guest
I am not sure where the winterization fill is on the reflection.
Thanks,
Peggy
 
The way I understand it, you set the can't leak valve to the winterization positions shown on the door and use the pump to pull the antifreeze through the city water connection.
 
I believe Nick is right. As the pump is pulling antifreeze have someone open each water faucet until antifreeze appears. Don't forget the outdoor shower valve. And before you do the antifreeze thing drain the hot water tank. It is behind an outside cover.. Unscrew the plastic 3/4 inch nut, and lift the pressure valve lever to release all the water. Next spring make sure you fill the hot water tank before firing up the heater.
 
Also make sure you winterize the black flush tank line, it has a backflow preventer valve in it and mine froze last year. I blew it out with a compressor but evidently there was still water in it. Just a word of caution as I learned the hard way. Now I pump antifreeze in it with a hand pump until i see it come out of the black tank.
 
Danny Moss said:
I believe Nick is right. As the pump is pulling antifreeze have someone open each water faucet until antifreeze appears. Don't forget the outdoor shower valve. And before you do the antifreeze thing drain the hot water tank. It is behind an outside cover.. Unscrew the plastic 3/4 inch nut, and lift the pressure valve lever to release all the water. Next spring make sure you fill the hot water tank before firing up the heater.
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All good, don't forget the low point drains at some time. I always trip the water heater circuit breaker before draining the heater and don't reset it until after I have refilled the heater in the spring.
 
Did ours today. Put valves in winterize, bypass mode, drained the water heater. Took caps of low point drains and opened inside taps to let water out, (those caps are a bit of a pain, would be nice if GD would install taps instead) closed taps and put caps back on. Ran hose from antifreeze jug to city water connection and pumped antifreeze through the system. Quite easy.
 
notsosan said:
Did ours today. Put valves in winterize, bypass mode, drained the water heater. Took caps of low point drains and opened inside taps to let water out, (those caps are a bit of a pain, would be nice if GD would install taps instead) closed taps and put caps back on. Ran hose from antifreeze jug to city water connection and pumped antifreeze through the system. Quite easy.
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Ditto. Did exactly this myself on Sunday. Just read the above warning on the black flush which I may have to go back to storage and hand pump some anti-freeze into.
 
notsosan said:
Did ours today. Put valves in winterize, bypass mode, drained the water heater. Took caps of low point drains and opened inside taps to let water out, (those caps are a bit of a pain, would be nice if GD would install taps instead) closed taps and put caps back on. Ran hose from antifreeze jug to city water connection and pumped antifreeze through the system. Quite easy.
Click to expand...

I noticed there are no shut off {by pass} valves at the hot water tank. Did the antifreeze get to the cold and hot water lines going into and out of the hot water tank without filling the tank with antifreeze?
 
The hot water bypass is in with all the plumbing controls in the Kantleak panel. Winterizing can't get much easier
 
WhittleBurner said:
The hot water bypass is in with all the plumbing controls in the Kantleak panel. Winterizing can't get much easier
Click to expand...

So if the bypass is at the Kantleak panel how does the antifreeze get to those 2 lines without antifreeze going into the hot water tank? I realize when you flip the switch for winterizing it's like a bypass valve but you have all that waterline not getting antifreeze. If those 2 lines are getting antifreeze you will have antifreeze going into the water tank unless there are shut off valves at the hot water tank. This is my first use with the Kantleak panel. Just my thoughts!
 
Mr Lucky said:
So if the bypass is at the Kantleak panel how does the antifreeze get to those 2 lines without antifreeze going into the hot water tank? I realize when you flip the switch for winterizing it's like a bypass valve but you have all that waterline not getting antifreeze. If those 2 lines are getting antifreeze you will have antifreeze going into the water tank unless there are shut off valves at the hot water tank. This is my first use with the Kantleak panel. Just my thoughts!
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That's a good question. Hopefully they drain back into the water heater.
 
Mr Lucky said:
. I will be sending a email to the northeast rep. for Grand Design and hopefully get his answer and I will post it when he responses back to me.
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I got a answer back from the Northeast rep. for Grand Design. Here's what he said: Drain the hot water heater. This will clear out the pipes going to and from the hot water tank. Drain your low point drains. This will clear out your pipes. Bypass your hot water heater because it is really hard to get the flavor of the antifreeze out of the system especially once the hot water heater kicks on and cooks the antifreeze. It should take about 2 gallons of antifreeze to winterize your Reflection. The water pump switch allows for easy syphon into the winterization system. If necessary, pre-fill the hose when it is hooked up to the Anderson Brass connector with anti-freeze, using a funnel, to insure you are getting good pressure once the pump turns on and you have the hose immersed in the anti-freeze. Once the system is drained you do not have to put anti-freeze in the short section of pipes too and from the hot water heater because they drain back into the tank and then out the hole where the nylon plug goes. Pages 86-91 of our owners manual is excellent and more detailed.

I will be looking at my lines going to and from my hot water tank to see if they will allow for all the water to drain out. I really do not feel comfortable not having anti-freeze in those 2 water lines. So when you put the Kantleak switch on winterize I understand it does not let anti-freeze go to the water lines that go to and from the hot water tank. I have opened the latched door in the bottom lower left corner of the Hutch and can see the water lines coming off the hot water heater. Also pulling out a draw you can see a lot. Next week I will be winterizing and I will take the felt plywood panel off in my storage area so I can see everything completely and will get a better understanding of the Kantleak hookup. This is not my first RV so I understand winterizing really good. Just my first one with no bypass valves at the hot water tank. Living in New Hampshire you better make sure you get every line winterized. Last winter we had a stretch of weather that was zero or below at night time!
 
I am about to winterize my rig this weekend. I read the manual. It doesn't mention anything about draining the water heater and turning off the breaker, so i am sure glad I read this first.
What bothers me is that the manual does say to drain the fresh water tank and leave it open. There is at least a 2-3" pipe there, and it doesnt seem to have any kind of protection to prevent bugs, snakes, and critters from climbing up that pipe and making a home for themselves in my fresh water tank. Am I not understanding something here?
 
mauiboy1 said:
I am about to winterize my rig this weekend. I read the manual. It doesn't mention anything about draining the water heater and turning off the breaker, so i am sure glad I read this first.
What bothers me is that the manual does say to drain the fresh water tank and leave it open. There is at least a 2-3" pipe there, and it doesnt seem to have any kind of protection to prevent bugs, snakes, and critters from climbing up that pipe and making a home for themselves in my fresh water tank. Am I not understanding something here?
Click to expand...
My understanding is to leave it open while winterizing. Then close it when you are done. That's what I am doing.
 
So It's time to winterize and I removed the panel in the storage area to check out the miles of water lines and to see the maze at the backside of the Kantleak wall. So I followed my hot and cold line going to and from the hot water tank. Between the tank and Kantleak valves the 2 lines go into a u shape. GD tells me when you open everything the water will drain out of those 2 lines. Only if water travels uphill will mine drain. . I installed a hot water tank bypass kit today. I will blow out all my water lines and then I will hand pump antifreeze into all the lines. Then I will know I have antifreeze in the 2 lines running off the hot water tank. After that I will switch my Kantleak valve to winterize and do as the book says. With the cold weather we have here you got to make sure every line has antifreeze. I like the old water line setup in my other camper I had. This Kantleak panel has to many leak possibility's. O yes I found a leak coming off the back of the panel. It has the male end with a clamp. Real tight area to work in. Glad I bought a Shark-bite Pex clamp tool at home depot today. Along with the 1/2 inch clamps. Hopefully Today I will get to winterize.
 
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