How much sway is expected and normal ?

[TimtheToolMan]

Just (re)found the towing specs guide and my F350 has a max tongue weight of 2500lbs. So, it should hardly notice this trailer (which seems to be the case).

Also contacted the Service Dept at my dealer and they told me that the Swaypro 2k bars were reserved for some other 'commercial' hitch. So, I contacted BlueOx and that's total bs - I can upgrade, on my own, the bars for around $250 and might just do that if can't get satisfaction from the dealer.

Thanks all for the additional input - the information you get from this forum is like drinking from a fire house but I'm working on it ! lol

P

No surprise that dealer information is not trustworthy. You will not be able to trade in your old bars and possibly can't purchase the product with 2k bars. If you have made this purchase very recently, seven days depending on state law, you have option to say you want to return hitch as it does not work and is unsafe, but I would not want to do that unless Blue Ox sells hitch with 2k bars. May not be worth trouble...Most of the time I'm a very nice guy but there is a limit.

 

[TimtheToolMan]

Also, it looks like you found bars on ebay, which is what I did (used worked for me). Near $350 from factory.

 

[PeterInNH]

Also, it looks like you found bars on ebay, which is what I did (used worked for me). Near $350 from factory.

Actually Etrailers.com has them in stock and there were lots of good questions asked/answered re: upgrading from the 1500 to 2000lb bars. I'll give the dealer a couple more days and just go for it if they balk I suppose. After all, at this point, what's another $250 to get the best possible setup ?

 

[TimtheToolMan]

It is appropriate to let dealer know that setup did not work and what the results were. Too often us humans are not interested in what works well and can too easily be offended. There are some that will soak up the information, add to it and make experiences a bit better. It can't be easy working in service at a dealer--what a challenge in so so many ways. I feel for them.

 

[PeterInNH]

It is appropriate to let dealer know that setup did not work and what the results were. Too often us humans are not interested in what works well and can too easily be offended. There are some that will soak up the information, add to it and make experiences a bit better. It can't be easy working in service at a dealer--what a challenge in so so many ways. I feel for them.

Yes, I find it somewhat concerning (after all your input !) that they think that 1500lb bars are appropriate for a trailer that has GVWR of 13k lbs where a reasonable assumption is a tongue weight of 1800lbs or more.

Anyway, yes, I'll press a bit for sure and see where it goes.

Thanks !

 

[JPS350]

The way to tell if your bars are not big enough is if you can't adjust them enough to take out all the rise you want to take out of the front of the truck, then go up a size.

As others mentioned, learn all about your hitch and how to set it up yourself. All you need is a level parking spot, a tape measure and some masking tape to mark 4 spots at the truck corners for measuring. Personally, I take out all the rise in the front and even a little more if I can. Experiment and see what works best for you. You can weigh things later to prove to yourself how you did, but weights aren't necessary to set up the hitch. They are nice, especially with a smaller truck, to make sure you aren't overloading the truck or an axle (likely a non-issue with yours).

 

[MtnGuy]

Just (re)found the towing specs guide and my F350 has a max tongue weight of 2500lbs. So, it should hardly notice this trailer (which seems to be the case).

2500 lbs is a great number !! My 2017 F350 6.7 CCSB SRW is only at 1500 lbs., with a maximum tow rating of 15,000 lbs. The maximum tow ratings of the newer F350 CCSB SRWs are at 24,000 lbs.

 

[PeterInNH]

2500 lbs is a great number !! My 2017 F350 6.7 CCSB SRW is only at 1500 lbs., with a maximum tow rating of 15,000 lbs. The maximum tow ratings of the newer F350 CCSB SRWs are at 24,000 lbs.

Thanks.

My tow rating is only, by comparison, a measly 17,800, Might have something to do with the heavier 7.3l ? No idea.
Although, the 4160lb payload capacity is nice.

 

[PeterInNH]

The way to tell if your bars are not big enough is if you can't adjust them enough to take out all the rise you want to take out of the front of the truck, then go up a size.

As others mentioned, learn all about your hitch and how to set it up yourself. All you need is a level parking spot, a tape measure and some masking tape to mark 4 spots at the truck corners for measuring. Personally, I take out all the rise in the front and even a little more if I can. Experiment and see what works best for you. You can weigh things later to prove to yourself how you did, but weights aren't necessary to set up the hitch. They are nice, especially with a smaller truck, to make sure you aren't overloading the truck or an axle (likely a non-issue with yours).

Hi,

Measured 4 times today and it looks like the Front rise (DF and PF) is minimal - even without the bars. Or, is 3/4" significant ? The dealer set it up with 7 links free and I ran a test with it further tightened up to 8 links free (hanging).

Anyway, is it still worth pusuing the 2k bars assuming the trailer weight will increase as I outfit it beyond the bare bones it is now ?

Thanks !

 

[JPS350]

Hi,

Measured 4 times today and it looks like the Front rise (DF and PF) is minimal - even without the bars. Or, is 3/4" significant ? The dealer set it up with 7 links free and I ran a test with it further tightened up to 8 links free (hanging).

Anyway, is it still worth pusuing the 2k bars assuming the trailer weight will increase as I outfit it beyond the bare bones it is now ?

Thanks !

Good for checking. I think you're probably fine and honestly I'm not sure you really even need a weight distribution hitch with that 1 ton truck, but suspect it will feel more planted and stable with one. If you're getting close to taking out all the rise (you are) it should be fine. It might be interesting to try towing with and without the weight distribution bars on to see how much of a difference it's making. Check things again when you're loaded for travel and decide then about the bars.

 

[Chaps2018]

Re: incorrect bars--I had the same issue with my first setup from the dealer. They spec'd the bars based on the dry weight of the trailer. Once the trailer was loaded, the bars were overwhelmed. In hindsight, the bars should have been spec'd to the GVWR of the trailer. Had to buy new bars that matched the scaled tongue weight of the trailer.

Re: towing without bars--I have a Ram3500 DRW. The 1400lbs tongue weight from the trailer easily sunk my rear end. Also, I noticed on the hitch head of my WDH, it had a max capacity of only 500# without bars. Moral of the story--ensure your truck's hitch can handle the tongue weight if you choose not to use the spring bars as designed.

 

[TimtheToolMan]

OP originally said:

"However, yesterday I made a quick trip back to the dealer and encountered a few instances where (no wind to speak of) the trailer seemed to waggle around all on its own - not enough to push me out of my lane but definitely enough to give me a decent shock. While it did happen at other times it was especially noticeable when being overtaken by big semis - before the head of the truck passed directly beside me it was almost like my trailer was being pushed around by an air pressure 'bow wave' from the semi."

Yes, more weight and improved distribution, if possible, will help with trailer stability but we have gone from concern to considering no bars. This trailer is long so is quite a sail and the weight distribution very well may vary over time so making moderately easy changes, like using bars, makes a lot of sense to me. You very likely will run into some side gust that are beyond what you have seen and with no warning.

I would hold off on 2k bars until CAT is done. Your experience is like mine in that after using measurements I really did not know where setup stood--too much guessing. What is your weight distribution now? My F-350 with heavier diesel did not have much front-end movement either. At this point I would not have confidence where setup stands. Load up camper as you will be traveling, set spring bars to tightest setting, take to CAT scale and follow MtnMan's directions. If nothing else, consider safety.

Added: My setup is fine driving for short distances with no bars under good conditions (I question why I am taking some risk, though) but at times I want everything possible to keep truck stable under very challenging conditions--including some serious traffic, blown out tire, try first time death wobble with no warning right next to a speeding fire truck (yup been there).

 

[huntindog]

Good for checking. I think you're probably fine and honestly I'm not sure you really even need a weight distribution hitch with that 1 ton truck, but suspect it will feel more planted and stable with one. If you're getting close to taking out all the rise (you are) it should be fine. It might be interesting to try towing with and without the weight distribution bars on to see how much of a difference it's making. Check things again when you're loaded for travel and decide then about the bars.

It will be better with WD. I towed TTs from 2001 to 2021 with 1 ton crew cab long bed dually diesels.
I could feel the difference a 1 chain link adjustment made. I would never tow a TT without WD.
When Mr Murphy pays you a visit you will have to handle it with the setup you have. Make it the best it can be... This one of those areas where there are no "do overs"

 

[MtnGuy]

I have a much smaller trailer at 26’ with 900 lb tongue weight, and I would not consider pulling that any distance without a WDH and integrated sway control with my 1 ton truck.

 

[zztop]

Hi All,
I'm following this discussion with keen interest. I'll post my actual total questions in a separate post in order to not hijack this discussion with OP, PeterinNH. I just purchased a 30G, very similar in specs to OP. I'll pick it up in spring once the weather breaks, but I'm now working on upgrading my Tow Vehicle and hitch. (F350 or more) .... that is my keen interest in OP's experience.
I'm surprised at the challenges, especially with a 1 ton.
My current setup is FR Vengence 25V - GVWR 9985. 30.5 feet total. TV - 2017 F250, 6.2 Gas, max towing 12,500. Hitch is Equalizer 1200 - 1200 Max tongue weight and 12,000 max trailer weight.
Dealer set hitch up quickly (I was going to reset if needed), but no issues so I left it.
I've driven with fully loaded trailer, 2 Harley, water, fuel etc as well as empty. Tongue weight between 1200 and 1400 depending on loading.
Yes, I feel "truck suck", but rock solid after one oscillation. Been cross country and over rockies 5 times now and zero issues with handling and no adjustments or fiddling needed.
Is the 35 ft length vs my 30.5 ft length a big difference in handling and sensitivity?