I'm not getting voltage from my solar panel to my charge controller...

[huntindog]

I do not like wire nuts in RVs. Crimps with heat shrink tubing.
In this case with diiferent sizes of wire it is necessary to use several crimps and wire to transition from one wire size to the other. I would never plan on doing this, but in this case it is the best option

 

[Lthrailkill]

We use these all the time and work wonders for stranded wire...
Allen screw tightens to hold wire no guess work.

 

[huntindog]

That is interesting
What are they called, and where do you get them?

 

[Lthrailkill]

Burndy connectors..... Amazon, home depot and lowes has them, I get them at local electrical supply house.
Little prices but worth every penny

 

[Scott'n'Wendy]

That is interesting
What are they called, and where do you get them?

In the trade we call those ice cubes. At least where I live.

 

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Burndy connectors..... Amazon, home depot and lowes has them, I get them at local electrical supply house.
Little prices but worth every penny

Pre filled with a little noalox/penetrox?

 

[Lthrailkill]

That's because they keep things cooler than wire nuts lol....
Yep corrosion resistances built in

 

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Connecting a smaller/finer wire to much larger/heavier wire with a wire nut can be a challenge as the lighter wire will twist easier than larger. Any recommendations from this group to ensure connection is solid? Possibly pre-twist wires together with plyers before installing nut? Use a different removeable connector?

I don't believe there is any acceptable use of a wire nut within an RV...except in an emergency repair. They are great in nice solid non-moving houses...not so much in our rolling earthquake RV's. No data on it but don't think they are great with vibration and are really only in their element with solid wire... ie romex.
I generally go for terminal ring compression connectors or crimp butt splices. When using a crimp butt splice in place of a wire nut I look at the amount of available wire and see IF i really needed to cut it open again do I have lots of wire to remake the connection. If not see if a t-strip would make sense.
If a t-strip doesn't fit or make sense then I look at either insulated quick disconnects or WAGO. WAGO in particular if you can't use a terminal strip and are connecting wire sizes like 12ga to 16 ga.
For example, the ground connections were a mixture of wago and wire nuts in my 303. I changed to a t-strip that could handle the different wire sizes.

 

[classicrockguy]

My 315rlts came from the factory with a combo of WAGO, butt crimps, loop crimps, and terminal strips. The parts and materials used were mostly fine. However, the execution was a complete spaghetti fest. I rewired most of it with the same general parts and materials, while tidying things up and correcting a few major issues.

There was no fuse or disconnect in the wiring between the solar panel and the controller. I added a disconnect but no fuse since the factory wiring was adequate for the dead short amps from the solar panel. I did not remove the roof connector, so I do not know if there are any wire nuts under there. On the controller side, there was no fuse in the heavy gauge wiring to the batteries. I added a terminal block with fuses protecting all of the major wiring on the + side (solar controller, inverter, main 12v feed to the inside distribution panel), as well as added a disconnect at the controller.

My modified factory solar system and inverter, which are there to power the residential fridge while towing, works well. It is now wired correctly/safely and is easy to maintain (eg take in/out of service).

The factory wiring in these trailers can be really bad. Mine was (and not just the solar part).

 

[IBEW Sparky]

Update: Problem solved!
I had delayed tearing into the Jaboni Gland on the roof until it was clear that that was the next easiest step. Sure enough, the wire nuts were barely hanging on by a thread. The PV- was the first to go, but the PV+ showed signs of damage as well. I stripped the wires back until I had good copper again, and verified that the PV voltage now gets to the panel. I'm going to pull it back apart and solder the connections this time. Deez nuts were not installed correctly, but even if they were, the vibration could have taken its toll over time.
View attachment 1114194View attachment 1114195View attachment 1114196View attachment 1114197
Thanks for all the input!
Vic

Those connections were never done correctly from the factory. There's no need for solder on those connections... instead of pre twisting each wire fan out each wire and and lay them on top of each other then use linemans pliers to twist the wires tight. Trim to about 1" of copper showing and put on new blue wirenuts. Tape the wirenuts for your own peace of mind to keep them from twisting off due to vibration. Hint...don't use black tape, use a color tape and you won't have the issues of black sticky goo on everything if you need to take it apart in a year or two.

 

[Toby Payne]

I'm not getting voltage from my solar panel to my charge controller on my 2020 25G. It has always worked "fine" (original Jaboni), but just quit all of a sudden.

Voltage is present at the solar panels, but disappears (breaker, fuse?) somewhere between the panels and the controller. I can't figure out how the wiring in routed, so I have no idea where to look between the roof where the wires from the panel enter, and the controller where the wires come out from behind the front closet into the small area behind the front storage where the solar charger, inverter, and transfer switch are all located.

If anyone has troubleshot this system, I would appreciate any secrets on where any fuse or breaker may be located!

Thanks!
Vic

My GD 337rls has a inline fuse on the #10 wire coming from the panels (in front battery Compartment). When the Orangewood Dealer in Phoenix installed the panels they blew the fuse and had to replace it. It has been good ever since.

 

[deerislandbrew]

No Joy.
I confirmed that the MC4 connectors are installed correctly, and have voltage at the connector. I shorted the PV wires in the front cabinet, and did not have continuity from the gland connections to the cabinet.

The problem must be, in my opinion arranged in order of likelihood:

1. Either a breaker, disconnect, or fuse somewhere in the wiring in between. (seems like the most logical)

2. In the connections inside the Jaboni gland itself. (may have rattled something loose on the road).

3. In the wiring between the gland and the cabinet. (Fairly unlikely, would have had to be a catastrophic over-current to damage the wiring, and the ends look fine, no evidence of overheating).

I'm going to try a wire tracer and see what I can locate. Wish me luck!

Vic

I had a faulty mc4 multi connector on the roof fail last fall. At first I thought it was OK. But then If I wiggled it, it would show continuity, then drop out intermittently. I replaced it and solved the issue. Your in the right place Though. Start troubleshooting at the panels.