Installing new slide cover

[Dana H]

Will be installing a slide cover and trying to get feel for how high to mount the cover (frabic end) on the side of the TT. The instructions say to mount a minimium of 3" above the topedge of the slide. I have 5" of room.

So, 2" to play with.

I'm leaning towards the minimium but trying to get a feel for what others think and is better for overall performance.

Mainly wind getting under it during a higher wind event.
Plan to have a pool noddle and rope to throw of it and cinch it down in an extremely high wind event.

Or is higher better for over performance with water an rain run off.

a 3" slope over 5' should be more than adequate.

And I donot particularly like the idea of attaching just under the gutter along the top should that require and futher maintenance.

I also plan to put to use butyl tape under all the attachment pieces for a water tight seal, at this point I'm not sure those pieces have and weather proofing.

I purchased the Suncode Slide topper.
Installation video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9xfpeNYJo4

 

[Hoopy Frood]

I mounted all our toppers pretty close to the gutter so as to have the maximum amount of slope so water is less likely to pool. I don't really care if it does, but I'd rather have it run off. We've had slide toppers for 15 years and never messed with pool noodles, beach balls, rope, or anything else, and never really noticed an issue with the wind. Maybe we just don't stay where it's really windy.

I used the butyl tape also, and that actually made it easier to mount the rail. You just put the tape on the rail, get it situated where you want it, and it stays put while you run in the screws.

 

[geotex1]

You want to mount it at a level where the screws for the wall track encounter the greatest amount of framing. As much as I would prefer more slope too, GD uses relatively small headers in the portal opening. In plain terms, the aluminum tube spanning the opening is only 4 to 6 inches tall, depending on the span of the opening. If you don't hit wall structure, screws will work out with wind so using low-expansion rivets may be necessary. Also, skip the butyl and buy a roll of 3M double-sided tape for exterior applications. Can get right off the shelf at Lowes and Menards. Not only will it keep the channel in place while you fasten, the adhesion is additional support.

 

[Dana H]

GD uses relatively small headers in the portal opening. In plain terms, the aluminum tube spanning the opening is only 4 to 6 inches tall, 3M double-sided tape for exterior applications. Can get right off the shelf at Lowes


I mounted all our toppers pretty close to the gutter .

Thanks for the input from both of you. Pretty much help me make my mind.

Looks like if I use the minimium 3" slope I will fall between the slide openning frame and the top frame since there is only 5" there.
So with that I will probably go with just under the gutter and and use the 3M tape and the screws.

Hopefully that would put me in the top channel of the wall frame. I'm guessing the top channel is around 2".
I'll drill a pilot hold first and see if I observe any metal shavings or resistance
The backup plan will be the "pop rivet" and probably use the 3 pedal folding type.

Again thanks a lot for both inputs.

 

[Hoopy Frood]

Just a thought: if you don't use butyl tape, be sure to caulk the area above and below the rail installation. That was why I used butyl tape, it is sticky, and it helps seal the screw holes. I had no issues with it moving around after it was stuck to the trailer, and before I screwed the rail on.